Jig Man

We have lots of rocks and wood. A rigs get hung in them a lot so I always throw them on braid. I have tried lots of baits and have caught more fish on flukes than any thing else.

I have not had that rod but have had several Lowriders. They are very good rods.

X2. I have been doing this for 20 years. I can compare weather, lake levels, baits, etc when planning trips.

I had 2 of them and got a crack at both. 1. Bass fishing guide. I did it for 6 years. It was a pretty good gig except most clients had a very low skill level. 2. Be in retail boat sales. I got a job as sales manager at a boat dealership. It should have been great fixing people up with their dream boats or quality preowned units. It turned out to be a nightmare.

I turn mine on before the boat gets launched and turn it off when it is in the parking lot.

I use 3 different fluorocarbon lines on my 70s, 6, 10 and 12 #.

I never take them off no matter where I am besides the dash Solix is flush mounted.

I am glad someone catches fish on June bug. I rarely can get a bite on it.

There are lots of places to buy what you want but they don’t ship free. A few...Lurecraft, Janns Netcraft, Barlows, Bait Junkies Tackle underground has lots of tutorials for newbies.

A quick shot with a heat gun might get the curing process going. I have done that with other applications satisfactorily.

That depends on the charger. I always call the manufacturer and ask before leaving one on for extended periods. I have been told both ways.

I make my own and color code them by weight. 1/16..brown 3/32..green 1/8....red and so on I know one guy who says chartreuse is the color head for small mouth and walleye.

Depends on what batteries you have and what charger.

You might want to shorten his learning curve by getting a digitally controlled reel like the Shimano Curado dc. He wouldn’t be having backlashes.

I make my own. I have used Colorado silver red orange and chartreuse as well as willoe. They all work.

I use a Curado X70 with 6# fluorocarbon on a Gloomis medium light rod. A trd with a 3/16 oz head is as light as I go.

Shimano used to have too much grease and some needed to be removed but I haven’t noticed it lately.

LSU that is!

I traded for a 7.4. I spooled it up and did some yard casting. Like stated it isn’t a lot longer cast but I set it on the lightest setting and threw a 1/2 oz casting plug. No thumbing and the spool stopped with no backlash or even loose line on the spool. I am impressed!

I called BP they have some higher gear ratios. When the ice melts off the roads I think I’ll make a trade.

How’s it with spinner baits and wind?

How would it work for Arigs?

I just got one for my birthday. It is my first dc. I don’t quite know what application would be best. I use a Chronarch 150 for spinner baits, X70s for finesse, Curado 200 E for medium and heavy applications. I am not sure where this fits. You guys who own them, how do you use them?

Compression of each cylinder and lower unit fluid to make sure no water has gotten in. You probably won’t be able to get any Procraft parts if you need them. Johnny Morris bought them and shut them down. He owns Triton and still makes them.

I am on the other side here. I like to use my bow unit to see where my bait is and the fish I am trying to get to bite it. So I run the largest at the bow. You mentioned having a 7. If you could mount it up front and use it for mapping along with another unit you could avoid split screens.