Jig Man

If you have any accessories running you may not get a good charge especially with today's electronics without a charger. I'm no mechanic so I can't speak to his statement. All I can say is I use a dual pro 3 bank charger that is always hooked to my cranker and have been doing it for 12 years with no ill effects.

Those are two different ends of the spectrum that need totally different equipment. You can't ever make enough bullet weights to offset the cost of a lead melting pot. For plastics you need a dedicated microwave, pyrex or nor por cups or some hot plates and dedicated melting pans. Then you need a mold, some colorant, plastisol, gloves, and goggles. The list goes on and on but you can get started with just this. If you are doing it to save money DON'T because it won't. If you are looking for a hobby then by all means jump in but I'll warn you in advance whether wire baits, soft baits or hard baits there is no end and it can become an expensive hobby. My first injected tube cost me over $300. Slowly the cost is coming down but it will take a long time to get down to store costs but I'm not in it to save money. I'm in it for the pleasure of catching fish on stuff I make that no one else has.

The sky was bright blue and the wind was very low. I looked at the placement of fish and bait in the water column. There was a thermocline at 25' and almost nothing below that. Most everything was in the top 10-12'. I hit a couple of points and picked up a couple of keepers in less than 10 fow. We kept the boat less than 20' and threw to around 3'. After a couple of hours we stopped fishing the bait all the way back as we got no bites deeper than about 8-10 and most were shallower than that. We had a lot of short hits no matter what bait we threw. We only wound up catching 16 before we left but 8 of them were keepers. All the fish were on plastics.

Your mounting is fine. The slower you go the less arches you will see. Really slow the fish can look like flat lines. You also have to remember that if fairly shallow your boat may spook them before you can see them on your screen.

Blue bird skies are usually the toughest. Sometimes they go deeper and sometime they hang close to cover. I try shallow cover first then move deeper. I have the same conditions today. I'll be fishing the late afternoon and night. I'm starting out with jigs, grubs and worms trying to cover the water from 3-10 feet. If that doesn't work, I'll go deeper. When I leave the launch ramp, I idle around looking for the bait fish to see what depth they are using. That should give me a hint as to the depth to find feeding fish.

One of my favorite jigs for summer night time fishing is white with a blue trailer. I also use them in brush when the water is high.

It is better to have a plug and unplug it when you charge the batteries.

I wouldn't mention second ownership. I'd call BPS tell them the problem and see what they have to say. Here at the main store in Spfld MO they exchanged a fly rod once that had been in a house fire. You never know unless you ask.

One of my friends goes to trade show with ammo, cammo, knives, sunglasses, etc. He has been took some of my baits with him over the winter. He does pretty well with his stuff but the crowd at those shows don't buy much fishing stuff.

A couple of hours before sunrise to a couple of hours after sunrise is my favorite time to be fishing. For pleasure it is sundown and moon rise.

My F-I-L towed a boat with his Lincoln Town Car for 20 years with no problems.

Here a fish has to be hooked in the mouth to be legal.

I used to use the D reels until about 10 years ago. A guy got me to try a S. Since then all of my Ds have been sold and replaced with Ss.

I wear good jogging shoes. My feet get hot but they don't hurt.

Cheapest would be to get some scrap wood and make a top water bait. Anything else just keeps requiring more and more and more.

NADA will give you an average retail value if you list all of the components on the unit. Be sure to check and see if the motor and or trailer are listed or if they are separate.

When you decide check out BBG and BOE marine for prices.

If you are looking aluminum decide what you want to have as far as storage, t motor, and cranker. Don't just jump on the first thing that comes along or you'll be sorry in a little while. Most Trackers are made for first time buyers and are way under powered both with tmotor and crankers.

I have bought several items from BOE marine. They always beat everyone else for me.

I'd take it back and try the next one in the store before I left.

If you leave it on you are draining your cranking battery. Just trace the wires from the lss box and the ones from the hds and move the lss power wires to the hds connection. It isn't a hard fix and it needs to be done.

1. That is not normal. Check the wiring. It will only read as long as the lss ducer is in the water. Where is it mounted? 2. Press the sonar page but don't go into sonar. You should be able to add overlay data so that it will show up on the sonar screen. 1. Check to be sure you have a ducer with a temp probe on it. Set sens in the mid 80s on the 520 then adjust to suit the conditions. I run my hds at -1.

I use E 7 Curados for everything except cranking. G-5 for that.

Can you post a pic? Maybe it is something that can be copied.

I have done everything from trying to teach them to ignoring them. Mostly I have found that they lacked the skills to catch fish the way I was doing it. I find that a lot when I take guys who don't go often and just can't quite get the presentation down.