newapti5

Can I add Abu reels into the mix? I like chaos. It's quite an accomplishment for my Abu Revo ALX to be this level of smoothness after several years of usage, and its pinion gear isn't even double supported. It gets me to rethink how much gears contribute to the general smoothness of a whole reel. Sometimes, it's just the bearings. SS bearings triumph over ceramic hybrid bearings on smoothness.

This is Amazon matching third parties' sale prices, and this time is Campsaver.com. You can order directly from them, with all sorts of Blue Labels on sale. $49+ for free shipping; I've ordered from them before. They have many things on sale right now, e.g., Falcon Expert rod, 7'3"Hudson Special, for $83. This is a very good deal.

Could be cheaper.

Oh I know what you meant all right. I fish river/creek smallies with light tackles mostly, except some heavy topwater and chatterbaits, so it's a little hard for me to justify buying a big bait reel, even given the $105 to-my-door price. I am still thinking though.

I was comparing the new '24 JDM Scorpion MD 201 with USDM Curado M 201 online. Besides the line capacities, the max drags, and different paint jobs, they seem identical. So I just wonder what this MD "Monster Drive" really is? I understand the 300 size MD reels are equipped with bigger and stronger gears, but within the same size class, like the above two reels, do MD reels always have bigger gears? Or MD just means bigger line capacity and higher max drag?

TBH, grease removal is not the part I worried much about in bearing maintenance; it's how to store them in long term without those grease. I found out some of my bearings, SS and ceramic hybrid, were not rotating as well as before after long storage. It's probably the damp environment and the lack of vacuum storage bags. Any suggestions?

It depends. If the reels have been fished hard, then yes, once a year at least. If not much usage like your case, then no, a simple re-oil on bearings and re-grease on worn gears would be fine.

So you're the reason I couldn't get any 12lb Tatsu from them... Still, $100 order placed. They made some offers I couldn't refuse.

If you're looking for value, I've been using this company's bearings for years, ceramic hybrid or stainless steel. They're not JDM bearings, but given their pricing, IMO they're the best value out there. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1100800780

I recently acquired an old JDM Daiwa CV-Z 105L. One of the sideplates has many tiny scratches - boat rash I guess. Since Plat has already stopped stocking this part, I try to repair it myself. I have tried some 2K grit wetsanding, some 3M Trizact 5K grit, and some Meguiar's ScratchX polisher, but none really worked. The surface seems machine cut/milled. Any idea how I can fix/alleviate it? Thanks!

I just want to add that FG knots, like other knots, have fatigue. So after a couple trips, especially after a long winter off-season, you'll need to retie it.

Thanks! I know I can count on you 😉. I do have thoughts about changing the knobs, as the old ones are pretty worn out. It's good to know the tricky S/C knob size, but lucky, I have both 4mm and 5mm bearings/washers.

Just bought a used JDM Daiwa Z2020 that comes with a custom handle. Does anyone know about this brand? It's "standard" with a cross marking. I wonder if it's a name brand that's worth keeping.

I guess I am the minority here. I mostly fish clear water and rocky bottoms with not much weeds, and 20lb braid with 12lb FC leader is my most commonly used line on baitcasters, for 1/4 - 3/8oz jigs and other bottom fishing techniques. I don't have digging problems as I only set my drag on 3~4 lb, and I don't normally have abrasion problems either, unless a muskie gets my lure.

That's right. Some of the high end Daiwa spinning reels have magsealed parts that isolate the inner gears from outside, but for most baitcasters, including some lower end spinning reels like the Fuego LT, "magsealed" marking on the reels only means magsealed bearings, which could be replaced with ceramic bearings if you want corrosion resistance.

I fish smallmouth mostly, and I didn't have much luck with the larger Pop Max, despite its great casting distance and action.

I don't know which river you're referring to, but the Susquehanna river in Harrisburg area, though shallow, could be quite dangerous for wading due to its rocky bottom. There's one time me and my fishing buddy were wading along the river for walleye fishing. It was getting dark, and we stayed close to the bank, casting towards the currents in the middle. His lure got snagged, and since he's familiar with the area, he decided to move in and retrieve it. One second he was there, the next he's gone. He emerged from the water about 10 seconds later, and told me he was "sucked" into something. Luckily, the bottom at that spot wasn't as rocky as the river bottom normally is, otherwise he might have hit something hard when he fell.

Yes, I noticed that as well, but not all the time. I'd say about ~30% of my FG knots with 20+ wraps will have some seemingly "loose" wraps at the beginning, and these are the knots that I didn't tie very well - could be the early wraps being too loose, or the first couple half-hitch knots being too tight. Nonetheless, I still believe that these "loose" wraps are crucial to the knot strength, especially during strong hooksets. After I'd fished the knot for awhile, especially after some big ones, I noticed those "loose" knots weren't loose anymore. They became cinched in normally, and helped maintain the knot strength. I think the YouTube channel Salt Strong did a test on FG knot wraps, and they also found that 20 wraps are the minimum to keep the knot strength at the proclaimed 90%+ of tensile strength. For the matter of 20 wraps making the knot too long to pass the guides smoothly, TBH I've never had that issue. I mostly use 20~30lb braids and 12-15lb FC leader.

I think 15 FC to 30 braid is fine, but you'll need to do 20 wraps minimum. I even do 25 wraps for slicker braids like Smackdown.

How should I check the AR bearing besides sight inspection for rust? Thanks!

Mind if I ask how it is compared to others, like Sniper or Tasty?

I was having trouble purchasing them in store. The store won't follow the website pricing, and I had to order online and pickup in store. But despite of that, and their "unorthodox" promotion email pic, the sales is legit.

No. As a Daiwa fanboy, I've experienced some QC issue with Daiwa reels, but I've also run into similar issue with Shimano reels - some of my Shimano BC developed "geary" feeling much earlier than they should.

No, never heard of it. And their pricing isn't that competitive either TBH.

My local Gander Mountain had a liquidation sale 7 years ago, and changed its name to Gander Outdoor. Then it had another liquidation sale 4 years ago, and closed shop. Those are the two times I shop there. I am cheap like that. Besides the majority orders through Internet, I still visit my local shops, but mostly for chatting with friends.