newapti5

Here's the comparison with Curado K 200

The 100 size is strong enough to handle that with no issue, but the problem is line capacity. If you plan on using #15+ line, the line capacity might be just enough.

I guess it depends on what you want to do with it. CQ BFS is more oriented to micro BFS lures, but the 100, though smaller in form, is actually for regular weight class lures. I don't do BFS, but I do a lot of finesse fishing, lures of 1/4~3/4oz in total weight. That's why I got the 100 instead of 200 or BFS. For heavier weight lures that you mentioned, I have this bad boy:

Yep, that has been confirmed, and that's one of the reasons why I got the 100 size of '21 model instead of the BFS model. Forgot to mention one thing though: this is a JDM reel from Amazon.jp. I haven't seen it on TW yet, so the USDM model in the future may be different.

If you're talking about the new 2021 Calcutta CQ, I'd suggest the 200 size. The new 100 size is tiny; I use it for 1/4~3/8oz finesse jigs. Here's a picture of the 100 size one. I am 6' tall with regular size hands.

For river SM, I'd like to use mod-fast rods, and Dobyns has my vote. The action of their rods is perfect to keep those feisty SM pinned. They're not fancy looking like those JDM rods, but well balanced, sensitive, and durable.

The rotor is connected to the "core" part of the reel - the AR bearing, the pinion bearing, the pinion gear... So if you're sure the rotor nut is not stripped, then there're a lot of possibilities for the wobbling problem you mentioned. It's hard to diagnosed virtually, and I'd suggest sending it professionals like DVT here.

IMO "workhorse reels" are the cheapest possible reels that can withstand abusing with those high resistant lures, things that need you to really crank it up.

IMO President XT is a better choice than Revros. Mine is 5 years old and still kicking. And if you only plan to put braid on it, I don't think you'd need 3000 size. But for spinning reel under $100 I would recommend Daiwa BG. It's a saltwater/freshwater reel with a little higher MSRP, but you usually can get it on sales for 60~70 dollars. Its 1500 size is same as 2000~2500 size of other brands. If you open it up, you'll wonder how Daiwa could still make money with so many high quality components inside, components usually only in their $200+ reels. For example, I believe it's the only reel under $100 that has bearing supported drag. It's not an essential part for bass fishing, but it shows the "luxury" level with this reel.

Vicious No-fade braid doesn't fade, and it's quite nice for casting. You can find many positive feedbacks on Tackle Warehouse. However, it only comes in green and blue I think, and it's rather hard to find on the market besides TW. Fins pitch black braid doesn't fade either, and it's relatively easier to find. As the name suggests, it's pure black. TT did a detailed review on them. Finatic Tackle Pro braided line doesn't fade as well; that's one of their marketing selling points. They have white/green, and white/blue color to choose from. TT gave it an "Editor Choice" award. My personal experience is similar to their review: it doesn't fade at all. Unfortunately, you can only order from their website, and it stopped working a couple of months back. The company might have gone south. Other than these, many JDM braid don't fade easily, and there're many color choices, like the YGK G-Soul X8 braid.

I have a Daiwa BLX rod, 7' MH extra fast. Craftsmanship is quite nice, but as a do-everything model, it's a bit on the stiff side. Sensitivity is a personal thing. I don't own a NRX+, but I'd say BLX's sensitivity is on bar with my GLX. I got it on 50% off during the sales of Sierra.

Not anymore. But google "just for fishing" you can find a low ratio one.

If you get much better distance on the same rod but different reels, then you can be sure it's the Caius reel's problem. Rods play a more important role in casting distance than reels. If it's the reel's problem, like other's said, check your spool bearings first. For Shimano reels they are the one in the palm sideplate and the one under the tension knob. Change or upgrade them if needed. If the bearings are fine, then see if there is any oil/grease on the spool shaft. Shimano reels have a tight tolerance between spool shaft and the inside of pinion gear; any excess of oil or grease between them can impede the rotation. If there is, wipe off the oil/grease on the spool shaft AND the inside of the pinion gear with a thin Q-tip. If there's no grease/oil on the spool shaft either, then the pinion gear may be misaligned. I don't think the pinion gear of Caius is supported by two bearings, so it's possible the pinion gear is not perfectly aligned anymore after some usage, a situation that causes some fictions between the pinion gear inside and the spool shaft. Try free spin your spool, if the spool stops quickly after you've done all the above, this might be the case. To fix it, you'll need to open up the reel, or just send it to professionals like DVT here.

I am not allowed to post the link or name here, so please don't ask. But you should be able to find similar ones on Internet. It's just my opinion based my own experience with reel handles. My Patriach XT had a not-so-perfect handle knob tolerance. I had to put a couple shims in it.

Sorry, I was talking about "street price." I got mine for ~$140.

My rod choice for jerkbaits is baitcaster fast action for 1/2+oz lures, baitcaster mod-fast for 1/4~1/2oz lures, and spinning setup for anything below 1/4oz. Both my baitcasters and spinning reels are left-handed.

My opinion is to spend the most money on the more sensitive jig rod, which in your case will be the SLX rod.

It doesn't miss anything; it's quite common for low-mid end reels to have less than perfect knob tolerance. If you want tight tolerance on the handle knob, you are looking at $200+ reels. That being said, it's an easy fix to do it yourself. Just search "thin shim" of 4x7x0.1 mm size on Internet or local hardware store.

It depends. If it's a Daiwa Magsealed reel, you'll have to send it to Daiwa maintenance center. If it's a mid-high end model, like the new Stradic FL, there might be many rubber seals and small pieces to handle with cautions. Otherwise, it should be relatively easy; just take photos along the way.

Saw this promotional email in my inbox and got a kick out of it.

Finally! I've been waiting for this. Thanks!

This might be off of the topic. I wish it's a clear cut situation for rod warranty, but I feel like sometimes the line between user own fault and factory defect is blurry. Take my Falcon expert rod for example. Last year I snapped the tip of that rod during hookset. It was only 2 months old and I had only used it on 3 trips. It was just a ~1.5lb SM, but my hookset was pretty hard. Then again, my reel drag was set relatively low because I was fishing a shakey head. And again, when I set the hook, the rod tip was pointing all the way to the sky; that might put a lot of pressure on the rod tip.... The merchant I purchased it from didn't bother with/understand my explanation, and just sent me a new rod with no charge. That's why I'd purchase another Falcon rod next time.

The rod I used varies; I like to experiment reels with different rods. Currently it's paring with a Dobyns Champion 735, 7'3" heavy fast, 1/4 ~1 1/2oz. I've tried it with many other rods, it fits most of them well, except maybe the ACS style reel seat.

It's still popular for me. The first "high-end" rod I purchased is a first gen Fenwick Aetos. What a rod, I still use it all the time. I also have their HMX, HMG, World Class, and the new Techna PX, never had any problem with them. To be fair, the sensitivity of Fenwick rod is not the best, but the taper and action is one of my favorites.

I fish clear water for SM mostly also. I just put 15lb fluoro on it for T-rig/jigs, with some braided line under as backing, to lower the final spool weight a little. That reminds me that I learned that tip from the late Aaron Martens. RIP.