.RM.

dsaavedra, On anything other than fishing gear it is a good thing...On fishing gear use a quality reel cleaner like the Birchwood Casey I recommended, or if your familiar with using soap use hot water and Simple Green. Clean the reel out then use a QUALITY reel oil and grease to re-lube the reel properly.. If it is more than you can handle send it to me, i'll bring it back up to factory condition... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Robert, I just contacted Daiwa®, the drag star from the Sol will fit the Alpha Itö... Got the mail.... We will get that puppy back together and back to you...

Mostly it helps control the depth of the backlash. The key to backlash free baitcasting is lots of practice and thumb education...The key is the rod. The rod cast the lure, the reel only pay out the line, the reels drags help fight the fish in conjunction with the rod, and retrieves the line and stores the line. The articles key component is understanding the line, and lure rating of the rod, and ability to load the rod properly, then the line rating of the reel and setup of the free spooling rate of the reel. Practice, Practice, Practice...And educate the Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Yes it is a great solvent for dissolving organic materials (such as rust, etc.), and yes magnets are organic...If you put it on the gear side of the reel it will dissolve the grease used as a water repellant on the gear teeth for corrosion resistance. Do not use a 3in1 oil in your reel, the viscosity of that oil is higher than most good reel oils and will slow the bearings down, cutting down on the reels performance. The only thing that should be used on the gears as I have stated before, is grease on the main drive and pinion gear teeth, used for corrosion resistance (NOT LUBRICATION). Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Your mags are set to maximum, back off to about half or less.. Sure can. Turn the darn things off. Learn to use your thumb, and make sure the rod your using is able to cast the weight you want to throw. Set the drop rate of the lure using the cast control cap. Set the free spool rate so once the lure hits the water, or ground, the spool stops turning. Then set your mags at about half (if you have a 10 count dial then set it at five or less). If you still can't cast your lightweight stuff, then find a rod were the lure rating of the rod has a rating were the weight your trying to cast is in the middle of the overall ratings of the rod. String up that rod and set the drop rate the same way and set your mags to half. Most problems you had described are because the angler isn't taking into consideration that the rod cast the lure NOT THE REEL. (Meaning if the rod isn't going to handle the weight you want to cast none of the changes your trying to put the reel through will help). Just my .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Re-Clean that reel..First off clean the old oils and grease from the reel using either Birchwood Casey's Reel Scrubber or hot water and Simple Green with a tooth brush. Then using a top quality reel grease, and reel oil re-lube the reel and re-assemble. Remembering the only place you use reel grease is on the drive gear and pinion gear teeth. The bearings and shims get one drop of oil each... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Reel for a 7' MH Loomis Mossyback, used for jigs and worms.. CU100D: IPC 25", Line: 10/105, 12/85, 14/70, MaxDrags: 10.0lb., Gear Ratio: 6.2:1, Reel Weight: 7.4oz. TD SOL: IPC 23.6", Line: 10/105, 12/90, Max Drag: 8.8lb, Gear Ratio: 5.8:1, Reel Weight: 7.4oz With these baits you do need a well balanced system, and a reel that will be able to handle the line you intend to use.. But IMPO the most important thing in the reel I would use on a rig for these baits would be the ability to turn the fishes head, and, change his/her direction quickly. With either of these reels your looking at, the whole system will probably balance out the same no matter what reel. But the key ingredient's in the system would be the max drag, and the IPC (gear ratio), and on all accounts the Shimano® wins. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

southbassfisher, Nice pair of stripers.. If your catching stripe bass like those consistently you might already have a good handle on what line to use and were... Tight Lines!!!!

The Citica reel is a fine reel no doubt about it. The older Curado B series will always considered the work horse of the Shimano® line, and the Citica has taken it's place. TxBuddha, is right when the new models came out their was a tolerance issue in the line carriage supports that was fixable for free. The newer models have been taken care of as far a that issue is concerned. ww2farmer, The Daiwa® advantage, is a good reel. But as a reel tech that was trained at both factories 25 years ago, I can honestly say that IMPO Daiwa® was and has always been chasing Shimano® technology. Tight Lines All!!!!

250 Calcutta Stogie Special (Circa 1998) I know the reel well, I had 2 of them, purchased straight from Shimano®....... It's worth about what it was worth in 98 when it was released and only released for that year (only 1500 produced). It is a blue water reel, with upgraded bearings. Housed in a presentation mahogany red oak box, with cigar band. The anodized paint job meant that no 2 reels were alike. $298.00 MSRP... Needs about another 10 years to be considered a collectable... Tight Lines All !!!!

riskkid, While longer rods do give you more in casting distance.. Sounds like it's time for you to have the spool bearings cleaned out and re-lubed. You will see a 100% improvement on your casting distance... Tight Lines!!!

There can only be one...One in the same or same one..... LOL .. ;D..don't ask me how DavidG The Reel Mechanic Tight Lines!!!

armesjr, I have a left hand version of the reel. I set mine up every other one turned on. The proper way to set it up would be turn all off. Then set the free spool rate with the cast control cap. Then open the brake side and set the spool brakes. I would start with 3 on 3 off (every other one on), if that's to much then back off to 2 on (direct opposite each other) the rest off, etc. You will have to test cast the reel to find the right setup for the angler using it.Tight Lines!!!

I personally would go with the Viento, which was the original with the twitching bar. It's MSRP is around $199.00 depending on were you go. The original Daiwa® Megaforce Baitcasting Reel MSRP is around $69.95.. I have no idea why Daiwa® made this entry level gimmick, or what they intend to sell it for. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Must be the Shimano® Core.... CORE100MG: 26"IPC, Line: 10/110, 12/90, Max Drag 11.0, S A-RB Ball Bearings: 4, Roller Bearing: 1, Gear Ratio: 6.2:1, Weight 6.1oz. CORE100MGFV: 30"IPC, Line: 10/110, 12/90, Max Drag 11.0, S A-RB Ball Bearings: 4, Roller Bearing: 1, Gear Ratio: 7.0:1, Weight 6.7oz. Tight Lines All !!!!

From my signature line you can see what my favorites are, but I voted Shimano® Tight Lines All!!

Thats great... Tight Lines!!!

fourbizzle, While you have it broken down again. Check the thickness of the ABEC7 against the old bushing. If the bearing pack is just a millimeter thicker than the bushing, it will cause the whole drive assembly to not sit properly and cause some rubbing and clicking. Everything in that stack must sit just right as far as spacing goes. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

fourbizzle, Yea there is one there. It is the Assist Stopper it's a back-up anti-reverse system that reduces the stress placed on the one-way roller bearing to increase durability. It shouldn't be audible. Have you taken the crank stack apart recently? I would check to see if the AR Pawl sandwich is gripping the anti-reverse rachet plate or not. It should be lubed lightly with the gear grease, and the sandwich should be gripping the plate just enough for the forward rotation to cause the AR Pawl to kick slightly up and away from the AR rachet plate, and then when the forward cranking rotation stops it should slide down into one of the cuts and help the one way roller bearing pack do it's thing. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

What's the reel model??? Sounds like something is binding the crank, or the rotor. Make sure you don't have any grass or line in the crank support bearings or behind the rotor of the reel. I would remove the reel from the rod and start by removing the spool looking for anything that can bind the rotation of the rotor under the spool. Then I would remove the crank and look at the bearings on both sides, again looking for anything that could bind the bearings up, sand, dirt, grass, etc. I wouldn't recommend that you remove the rotor because of the AR assemblies that are underneath it on some reel models. If you don't find anything in these areas that might be binding the reel up then I would recommend you send it to the factory, or return it to the retailer. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Marty, Not being able to close the bail via cranking, is not just a result of a broken bail spring. It can also be a result of a few different things.1. To much tension on the bail arm pivot points (bent bail wire, causing the bail arms to be out of square on the pivot points and binding).. This is what I think was originally wrong with your reel. Especially when you made mention of bank fishing. Many times a bank angler will set the combo down in a manner which will cause the bail wire to get bent sightly out of tune, and cause the binding of the pivot points... 2. The return kicker (located on the back side of the rotor) this piece can get gummed up easily and doesn't work freely enough to help kick the bail arm over a certain degree mark, just before the main bail spring take over with the final push to close. FYI: On the front of the main body just under the rotor, there is a ramp. This ramp helps kick the return lever which in-turn pushes the bail spring forward, which pushes the main bail arm over. 3. The ramp under the rotor on the body has a grove in it and the ramp isn't assisting the return kick lever in it's job or the return lever has been worn down enough as to not get enough help from the ramp. The ramp is basically the start of the auto closer for the bail. Just my .02¢ But the main answer for the bail closing on cast is as stated before.. Like GW and Avid mentioned, not opening the bail properly and snap casting the rod will cause the bail to snap shut prematurely. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Marty, This quote alone tells me that you don't know what or where the bail spring is. Only if the spring was installed incorrectly (and on this kind of bail spring that is hard to do). Following this thread and looking at the schematic for the RZ-2500C. If the bail spring has been broken for about 2 years then how have you been using the reel. The bail is only sitting on 2 pivot points and should be flopping back and forth loosely on it's own (that is if the bail spring is actually broken). The bail spring helps hold the bail wire in the closed and open positions. One way to know for sure if the bail spring in a spinning reel is actually broken, open the bail and tap the bail wire and try to get the bail to close. If the bail snaps shut then your bail spring is working. Another way is to lift the bail wire about a quarter of an inche and let it go, if the wire snaps back to closed the bail spring is working... Like GW and Avid mentioned, not opening the bail properly and snap casting the rod will cause the bail to snap shut prematurely. But this only happens when the bail spring is actually working. Just my .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Looks like one bad *** bass catching reel.. Does it? ;D Tight Lines!!!!

Welcome To The Forum!!! Tight Lines!!!

Welcome To The Forum!!! Tight Lines!!!