bulldog1935

Finish can be a big factor, but you should really be looking at the blank itself. Higher grade blanks use less resin and more carbon, normally have both linear graphite fibers, and layers of helical wrapped cloth. "Nano resin" is the buzzword for graphite cloth with the impregnated resin that gives you the lightest-rod for equivalent power. Microguides work and help keep the weight down, but work best with braid. That said, my best braid rods have "middle-size" titanium-frame guides that handle both mono and braid, including leader knots, better than microguides handle mono or leader knots.

I use a perfection loop and loop on terminal - it's stronger than any single-bend knot.

Asian Portal is 100% reliable, though their communication is lousy. Unless you have a Fed-Ex log-in, or follow your order on their site log-in, you may not know about status and shipping. It's really simple, most Japan vendors contract interpreters, and e-mails have to be forwarded around. If they have what you want in stock, you may want to grab it. Stock is always the toughest part. Shopping around, you may find a better price. And again, can't buy OOS. I have bought Valleyhill and Smith Ltd rods from AP, along with a half-dozen reels, + lures, tuning parts, lines...

I'm a continuum mechanics weenie, which is how theoretical math works in the real world, and boundary conditions also include handle pitch (length), which always gets screwed up on BR. And no, I won't reply to incorrect arguments against my solid point.

The Omen is intended for inshore, but I would use the ML or MH Omen in the same bass-fishing niches.

My Omen Green is the least expensive rod I fish, and I would replace it in kind in a heartbeat. I brought it up again on this later thread, and came back to edit when I had more time to thank @Eric 26 13Fishing imports their blanks from Japan. Their mid-and top-grade rods seem to be the entry level rods that use Toray graphite, making them both amazing light and amazing fast. They put the rod blank first. They make up for it in the cost by using Alps components instead of Fuji. They also have one of the best warranties out there - if you break it fishing, they replace it.

actually, the crazy part would be using more than 3-4 lbs of drag any more unless you're offshore are just numbers on paper

Here's your link https://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/page/228

p/n 5802 I use the soft sharp end of a plastic toothpick, "Doctor's BrushPicks" You can push it behind the o-ring, it will curl and lift it. I also carry one in my spare reel box in case I need it for picking a braid backlash (never needed, knock on wood)

Lew's quit selling parts in early '21 (actually, they used to give them away last time I needed some - a service model they learned from Zebco). They quit fielding phone calls, and their service center has suffered from overload with the post-'20 outdoor recreation boom and supply constraints. Though supply seems to be catching up this year, you gotta wonder if things will ever return to where they were before (unlikely). Still would be worth a phone call to see how they respond.

Here's a thread for you to check out. With my daughters, I've creek-fished a slip bobber on the stubcaster and Seminole in the photo above. Skilkast is a particularly nice Marhoff copy and I tinker with one (totally un-photogenic, here on Heddon Pal glass rod), but if I'm going to fish with one, it's the benchmade NLW reels of the ninteen teens and '20s. My ORCA friend Bill Muth fishes Marhoff and Skilkast on TrueTemper steel rods.

@Big-Bass We need a photo of your reel collection display. e,g. here's a shelf of mine - nothing Abu here, but 3 early LW reels that weren't Marhoff patent. At one time I did own a Thommen Record, which was bought by Abu, and became the Cardinal - but had to focus, and it was easy to sell.

That reel isn't made by Abu Garcia, but by Daysprout, who makes aftermarket parts for Cardinal. That's a good price, though, the list price was $600.

Just measured the handle from my JDM Zillion SV TW 1000XH 90 mm handle, 35 mm knobs I always tune handle length, but you can use any knobs you want (this is Avail) I have the original handle stashed in the box. If you buy a lower-geared reel with a shorter handle, the 90 mm from my reel is available.

The answer is everything I intended for bass fishing and had the chance to fish. We're in a terrible drought this year, and can't get a kayak to most of the water where I want to fish this combo. I'm pretty antsy - we'll see what we get in the fall. But I've more than made up for it with all the fly rods I've taken to hill country river crossings since I could first drive to Pancranz crossing.

What's mostly gained in newer reels is lighter, lower-inertia spools and better bearings, which increase cast distance by needing less brake for the same result. Keep in mind, longer casting should also be viewed as lower-effort casting, since that means greater control. Also, newer brake systems designed for wider lure ranges, making them friendlier to those beginning with B/C who may not have the best casting habits. Many of the new improvements are aimed at manufacturing, keeping cost down while maintaining quality. There are several reasons quality aluminum gears cost less than brass - and they can be done right. The P2 pinion solves a problem with those who turn the crank with the spool removed, preventing a possible galling spur on the pinion gear.

@Cbump Neither of my SD have P2 pinion. Essentially, it keeps the pinion aligned with the spool removed. The older reels have a 3rd (pinion) bearing in the knob cap for pinion cranking alignment with the reel fully assembled. If you don't futz with the crank with the spool removed, no worries. This is the P2 pinion in the Team Pro SP - it's a bushing, somewhere discussed on an earlier takedown thread on the forum.

Flippin switch is for fishing heavy cover in close. When it's On, any time you're on the thumb bar, you're in freespool, and any time you release the thumb bar, the drive is already engaged, so you don't have to thumb the spool and turn the crank to click-engage the drive mechanism. Essentially, the thumb bar moves the pinion gear directly without locking it disengaged. It's good for vertical jigging, also. The whole idea is quicker hook sets on quick strikes. Just like the name, it's intended for repeated short presentation and expecting a strike on the splash or fall. You wouldn't want it engaged on a long cast - you'd tend to break off lures.

From that list, Super Duty casts light weights best. I sold my Tournament Pro and bought another SD, because the TP couldn't keep up (not even close) @Chumps1 since you modified you list, the Tatula will cover the wide weight range best.

You have a great excuse to buy the small Avet or Seigler lever drag. They're a lot of fun - the entire mechanism is an A/R crank and a wide-ranging drag (zero to 35 lbs) This is the SGN - you can also use the lever for a casting brake. Somewhere on this video, my friend Glenn will be casting topwaters on his LGN yes, offshore kayak is manly sport

actually, all the JDM Shimano 2000, and one of the 2500 reels are the small frame reel. Again, it's confused by the export markets, because the USM 1000 reels are JDM 2000 reels. You may be able to make out the slight difference in spool diameter here, but that's Vanquish C2000S with an F6 mono spool on the left, and Stradic JDM C1000S on the right. The spool diameters are 43 mm (2000) and 40 mm (1000). The 2500 spools are 47 mm diameter, whether they're shorter stroke for small frame (S-27) or longer stroke for medium frame (S-20) Also worth noting, the small frame Shimano has the same over-qualified Stella A/R roller bearing clutch that's in the large frame reels; same BB line roller, fine-tooth gears with increased diameter compared to previous models, stiffened spindles, worm drive. It's shorter pitch to match the size and keep it light, but everything is just as tough as the large frame reel. If you really need to tackle the drag, that's do-able, too - both reels above have MTCW TD drag knobs, which are made only for small-frame reels.

Can't help you with that one, but my cordless Rapala is king (price has gone up 30% since I bought mine) - charge lasts forever (literally for months of neglect), and it glides through redfish ribs. Also great warranty service. @AmmoGuy it's this one https://www.tackledirect.com/rapala-lithium-ion-cordless-fillet-knife-combo.html#reviews I went for big, needed the longest blades. Since you can likely get by with shorter blades, the motor and lithium battery are probably the same, and that will bring the price down a bit.

There's a big Stradic stock currently at Asian Portal, and cost is around $165. https://fishing.asian-portal.shop/category/select/pid/300224 Throw in a megabass lure or two to get free FedEx shipping. @throttleplate - it's definitely aluminum, a guess, it's cast, which is a lot cheaper, dirtier, and more susceptible to cracking than a forged part (Shimano)

The fracture looks like it had already cracked through halfway - you just finished it off.

Let's leave it at I've contributed to two of your threads, and your repeated quotes embody everything that's ungracious about the internet.