bulldog1935

ok, fair enough - on your reel, the handle screws directly into the main gear. This older schematic still applies for the A/R and option function. p/n 36 is a roller bearing inside a bracket that gets pushed off and pulled back on spindle sleeve #37 by A/R cam #44. The basic difference you feel is the friction of the grease in the roller bearing. I wouldn't recommend schtupping with the grease - the right viscosity is important for both functions of the roller bearing - both rolling and Stopping. If too much low-viscosity oil gets inside the roller bearing, it can lock in both directions or completely slip in pay. ____________________________________________________________________ The Daiwa roller bearing will match this Tica, made for grease in the off-shelf roller bearing, and a drop of oil on the spindle sleeve. F-No, Shimano roller element A/R clutch from Stella is a complicated design made to use viscious oil - a more difficult, higher shear-failure solution to the same basic function. First A/R roller used in a reel, 1955 Precisionbilt Mosquito perfect-pattern fly reel.

Legalis has a hex-shaft handle that goes through the main gear, with crown washers on both sides engaging the main gear. Very likely made by Tica, Legalis schematic is almost identical to my personal like, Tica Libra SX. Best photo I had of a thumb screw is worm-drive Tica Libra SL. IOS locomotive drive Libra SX behaves very much like you describe, the reel spins more freely with A/R disengaged than it does with A/R engaged. Generally, the difference is slight. But if you over-tighten the non-drive-side thumb screw, you're over-clamping the main gear, so the difference with A/R engaged and disengaged is more pronounced.

When I was buying multipiece shore rods to fit a bike half--frame bag to pedal to a tide barrier only accessible this way, I bought an inexpensive 8-1/2' 7-pc that I knew didn't have enough tip guides. But the guides were spaced right that I also knew I could assemble the rod for spiral wrap with rings down to take the torsion off the tip-third. I put paint dots on the joints for quick spiral-wrap alignment.

I bought my Smith Dagger Stream trout telescope baitfinesse from Tackle Japan. Their logo has Japan flag, and they're a big Rakuten seller, and I believe he also sold my first Takamiya rockfish rods 15 years ago. Google won't give me a current link, if OP can help us out maybe with an item listing - tacklejapan.com comes up 403. Not the same as Jun and Kayo at Japan Tackle. Maybe this thing is on.

@Bigbox99 While that looks like a tension knob, surf/tournament casters use Zero end tension. The knob is a knobby dual-mag brake that moves in and out - you preset for max brake, then back it off. On 10-oz tournament distance, 14' rod, they'll start with max brake for start-up, dial it down, then dial it back up a bit right before the hump, then turn the brake to zero to get max distance on the fall. Tournament casters don't care about backlashing at end of cast, and they only line their expected cast distance + a little extra for hope. Mine are simpler, also shallow spool for threadline braid - I run fixed mag tuned for my lightest weight to clear the hump.

With any wrist snap, you must have centrifugal brake to prevent start-up backlash. (spinning cast always rewards wrist snap with extra distance, but it's only backlash with baitcast, unless centrifugal subtracts the extra jerk energy) With smooth power and wrist follow-through acceleration, the light lures don't weigh enough to jerk the spool, and you only need mag brake to prevent mid-cast backlash before the lure crosses the elevation hump.

Ray's Studio is in Thailand, and they first became famous copying KTF Kahen spool, and even improved it with a tapered SV inductor that acts like Daiwa's Boost spool. (You can buy the inductor separately to swap into Daiwa SV spools) MoMo Zero-adjust cap. They sell trim parts and microbearings under MoMo label, but I'm not as fond of their bearings as their spools. Delta Fishing - seller AOR on ebay - is in Thailand and has access to all Ray's new-production release - batches also sell out quickly. I'm also a fan of SDS Customs in Ukraine - since his Lew's BFS spool came up, note it's 32-mm, only for SLP frames.

I will continue to consider the rough-road-rash argument to be rationalizing neglect-abuse. Buy an on-rod reel cover or three. But you don't do this, my rosy red. Our caliche county roads get scraped more than logging roads, but you still drive through the river bed on as many crossings as those with low-water bridges. I've hiked and busted brush with fly rods all my life, including a dedcade in Alaska, and never marked a fly reel. I've also been posting photos of my reels on the internet since it arrived, and people always claim I must never take my nice tackle fishing. Below, I'm taking bass out of the eddy on the right bank, and crossed the river to get there - my buddy w/ the camera hasn't crossed yet, and other buddy is on the bank heading down the fast run to the next get-in. Salt exposure for people who live at the coast is another neglect-abuse. It's too easy to stack the rod in the corner of the garage and put off simple rinsing as - I'll think about it after next weekend. This probably makes excursion fishing an advantage. Every reel that's making the trip gets maintained when staging gear. First thing home, every combo gets rinsed on a rod rack for the same day the boat gets washed inside and out, drained and aired out. Then each reel gets individual maintenance over the following week. (the rod rack photo is shared with a group-trip)

with Prime showing delivery tomorrow, Amazon has US stock of JDM '23 Legalis LT. Quick and painless $-price - Amazon already paid import duty when they imported the lot. The weight shows you the 1000 and 2000 sizes are the same frame, and the weight jump at 2500 size is the switch to medium frame. -P model is low-gear, -XH model has 6.2 gears. 1000 has 40-mm spool dia., 2000 has 45-mm spool dia. Judging by PE capacity, both small frame sizes have shallow spools (listed as -S). Using Pattaya calculator, 2000 size has 90 m (100 yd) capacity for PE#1 (equiv to 4-lb mono), 112 m PE#0.8; ....................................and 1000 capacity is 60 yd of 4-lb mono.

In addition to protecting reels during transit, reel covers on combos protect reels from dust in storage. Yeah, the 4600C Black Cherry has a Tailwalk neoprene cover, too. Any time I start a reel project, I usually buy both braid and a Tailwalk cover from Naturum in Japan, both discounted - I add it to my noppin.com cache of reel parts before shipping together, IXA bearings from KTF, even Avail parts from Hedgehog are cheaper buying in JY on their Japanese website.

Drift float rods aren't made to cast distance, but to "trot" (US calls Steelheading) a quill float to almost out-of-sight down the current. Think Centrepin reel. Long rods with extreme soft tip to protect light tippet, and XFast over the remainder to strike a quarter-mile downriver. Likewise, a long crappie rod is made for dapping. See JDM Rockfish and Shore Light Jigging rods. Between these, you'll find Rockfish rods with moderate taper, and Shore Jigging rods with fast taper, and both made to cast distance. ^ what he said ^ Here's Rockfish spinner, check TZNano 93 specs and load curves. https://yamaga-blanks.com/product/lightgame/bluecurrent-tznano/ I fished the fool out of steelhead casting rods from the 90s through 2018, surf, jetties, to get away from boat hull slap, and to high-stick 1/4-oz jighead above the grass in kayak. All that changed when I went to rockfish rods and 7' baitfinesse, and could fish 1/8-oz and lighter on threadline braid. The rods in my first post feel half the weight in-hand of a steelhead rod.

@Swamp Girl Cheep and worth every penny.

Seems really easy to me. A hammer is a tool - too many reels get treated like hammers. A violin is an instrument - this is how you should treat nice tackle - keep it nice for the 5th generation and beyond.

Why do you want a Stella. The best line management Ever in a spinning reel - this is Stradic, which is the same reel made with aluminum body and ci4+ rotor, alloy gears, and a few bushings in place of a few ball bearings (gives up titanium bail, etc). The extra price in Stella is cost to manufacture magnesium body and rotor, especially the stainless gears, and add a few ball bearings plus the titanium bail. No other spinning reel design quite matches this line management. What you gain with Stella, it will keep this accurate line management longer than my Stradic, and it came with all the gears you will ever need for it. Diminishing returns? Yeah, if you're going to replace it or throw it away when something new catches your eye. But that's not the case if you plan to keep using it. I was thinking about this today, because next week is our week-long fall kayak regatta - Redfish Rodeo. All my gear is designed for purpose, and it always gives me what I ask, because I designed it that way. It wasn't cheap, but it also doesn't diminish.

I charged my camera battery for next week, and swapped it in my Pelcan box for the back-up battery, which is charging now. When I did this, I set the date and time correctly. Hope I made you proud. 😁 The black Pelican is cigars.

JDM is going to report true diameter - they're the only producer with a line specification committee, JAFTMA. If you compare Seaguar Gold and Blue leader, Gold is smaller diameter for test, harder and more abrasion-resistant. Blue is softer, tougher, and knot-strength beyond words.

@new2BC4bass I have to get ready for a tide pass - next week, in fact.

@casts_by_fly Lew's and other Doyo reels already come with NMB bearings, which are tough to beat. @redmeansdistortion uses NMB across the board in his bench-BFS reels You can slightly reduce the inertia with hybrid ceramic, and as I said above, a little more with unshielded bearings and frequent single drops of ultra-low-viscosity bearing oil. You want to balance what you would gain in your niche with the cost. @new2BC4bass - hmm, claiming 80% cast distance improvement - good luck with that.

Fluorocarbon is formulated to balance abrasion resistance (springy and low memory) to toughness (softer and slightly greater memory). I fish braid across the board, and fluoro shock leader. Toothy salt fish, and maybe snook gill plates, I'll opt for the hardest leader. UL/finesse, I'll pick the softer, tougher leader for max shock tolerance. A couple of things about using fluoro for main line. It has higher line memory than mono. It also weighs 80% more, so your spool won't start as quickly and needs more brake - same diameter mono should cast farther.

Spool bearings are the last word in cast distance - Jun Sonada rates bearing swap up to 2-3 % cast distance improvement. He's pretty accurate here for what you would gain with a bearing swap to Boca orange-seal hybrid ceramic ABEC7, etc Spool mass and inertia is the first word - 10% cast distance improvement. (Spool swap is closer to 30% improvement for BFS casting light lures) https://japantackle.com/tackle_topics/spool_tuneup.htm Bearings that give greater cast distance improvement are unshielded micro-bearings, and I've measured as much as 15% difference between stock shielded bearings and quality Air bearings. You also need to add a drop of bearing oil about once/mo. In the link above, Jun rates the bearing oil as another 2-3 % distance improvement, so bearing + oil gets you to 6%. Five-percent is a good nominal improvement in practice - but is that worth $40 of bearings to you? To me, the Boca swap is a *meh* result - if you want to go places, push it to IXA, MC-Squared, Hedgehog, and Roro. Fishing 1/8 oz go-to for inshore, this makes a worthwhile difference for me.

@Bigbox99 - might be worth a try for a spinning rod. Spinning rods can get by with fewer tip guides, because they're always loaded in pure bending. Casting needs higher-quality blank and more tip guides, because fish loads put torsion on the top third.

@Banned User To fess up, I've never actually used MC-squared double-row bearings, but mentioned them because the Hedgehog link is easy for most to find. I have used KTF/IXA and Ulucus double-row bearings. I prefer these in freshwater bass fishing, because they give finesse result and are still 1 oz capable. In salt, I prefer the silicon nitride full-ceramic, because I don't have to think about them. For finesse fishing only, Roro and Hedgehog Air bearings still have a slight distance edge.

@Bigbox99 Japanese Rockfish and Shore Jigging rods are where you want to go. While rockfish refers to species on both US coasts, in Japan, it refers to long casts from rocky shore - tide passes - same thing I use them for here. JDM Abu Garcia is the brand I would recommend you check first - Salty Style is the $100 rod - Salty Stage is the $200 rod. In quality, you can go all the way to EverGreen. I began this decades ago with Lami steelhead rods, but the Japanese offer the finesse rods I need. You didn't mention specific weights, which is most important for me - my shore rods are for salt finesse in tide passes, imitating small bait concentrated into bait balls by tide and wind currents. I also fish these in a winter navigation channel under a row of sodium-lights on docks pointing into the channel. Here's an 8'7" example that fishes 3/8 to 1-1/2 oz. My first Salty Style 8'9" shore light jigging rod impressed me enough to go back for a second. 1/8 to 7/8 oz. On Ali Express, you should also be able to search distance rod, rockfish rod, and shore jigging rod to find a range of examples. One Ali Express rod that has really impressed me is PureLure Seabed SD-C782ML. The 7'8" length is easier to haul on my kayak to tide passes, and it perfectly matches my favorite 1/4-oz plug, and Ambassadeur mini surf reel. In April, it was casting the 1/4-oz plug 200' across a tide pass (measured on google earth) and, probably more impressive, it was hooking fish at 180' It's going back to work a week from today on Little Cut, which is only a 130' cast.

All my spinners are Shimano worm-drive '19 to '21 - couldn't pry any from my cold fingers, etc.

Don't you guys have cameras?