bulldog1935

@newapti5 - the same set-up is widespread on Revo, Lew's, Doyo and Banax derivatives. When I was shedding offset weight recently on Ali Express Sabre JH100 in salt finesse niche, was happy to find the original drag star from my ZPI Alcance fit right in place of the heavy alloy + steel part, and looked right, too, with the carbon handle swap. It even matched the drag-adjust-detente clicker. Sabre copied Daiwa drive and Revo drag clicker. Alcance with original part, and with ZPI upgrades, pentagram star drag, and magnesium braid spool. They don't get a lot of love, but these are the two fastest spools I own.

@newapti5 Recent Daiwa also - Zillion, Steez, Ryoga all use like square-nut and keyed drag star

I actually started writing either threaded drag star or sprung-keyed drag star, but I looked up his schematic and cut to the chase. Keyed drag star is where most will find this exact trouble. Since he's not building an Ambassadeur from scratch, no need to confuse him.

Your drag star is not seated properly, and prevents your handle from seating on the mainshaft shoulder - you won't be able to tighten the handle nut completely. The drag star is keyed to M8 nut (4700) on mainshaft with a spring (4699) that keeps the drag star pushed to max height. You need to get star aligned on nut and pushed all the way down, and hold it there against the spring while you install the handle and handle nut. Bantam schematic - this is your reel, and this is the correct answer. Different reel, but this is mainshaft shoulder. With the drag star properly aligned and seated on the square nut, mainshaft shoulder will stick above top of drag star.

Let's see, add up all the $50 to $150 reels you bought but don't like, and posted about on another thread. Maybe as few as 2 of them - certainly 3 or 4 - or just one Ark Gravity - would get you a Zillion instead. This has always meant something to me.

gotta wonder where OP goes with this much complete detail in an answer - maybe it was a rhetorical question.

No offense, probably because it was over-tightened, and deformed permanently, past the elastic (reversible strain) zone.

throwing you a bone - if you note on the left, though, rod tips are still exposed to step on and break.

It can get smaller.

I always heard, "messy desk, organized mind - organized desk, dirty mind." Wonder if that applies to decks, also?

Here's an expensive and somewhat astounding drag-resolution-upgrade to small-frame Shimano spinner. MTCW offers TD drag cap for small-frame Shimano and Daiwa - unfortunately, since Shimano changed cap design with '22 Stella, it only fits '18 Stella series, '19 Stradic through through '21Twin Power (small frame) - also 20-30% price reduction currently. The spring response and drag load in spinning reel drag caps is simply elastic (reversible) strain in the hollow plastic cap. This results in the total drag range occurring only in the final half-turn of the drag cap. MTCW TD drag is all metal, with a coil spring inside the drag cap. It comes with 2 spring rates, XUL and full-drag. The cap clicker also doubles the number of drag-click detentes when setting drag. The total drag range covers 2-1/2 turns of the drag cap, and gives extreme resolution setting drag, especially good in small-frame finesse fishing. You can also add finger drag by pushing on the front of the cap to further compress the spring. works - this beastie made two 50-yd runs on Major Craft XUL rockfish rod.

and me without my hippers.

@FishTank nailed it. Your best bet of finding a parts reel is TackleTour forum, and registering there requires a resume of sorts to Cal.

You don't get any drag until tightening drag star (nut) begins compressing the drag stack. The only reel I know that gets a long linear drag response is Isuzu, because it has a helical spring in the drag stack (p/n 46) Every other reel I know gets their drag spring from a single or pair of elliptical (bellville) washers, which is not going to give that long, linear rate of a coil spring. The bellville washers are p/n 5131 in this Abu C3 stack, and you'll find these in just about every other reel. You can put M8 shim washers on top of the drag stack. These don't change the spring rate of the bellville washers, but compress and engage the drag stack sooner on tightening the drag star/nut. Since I brought up Isuzu, they use 0.2-mm stainless shim washers at the bottom of the stack, p/n 45 in the first schematic I showed. Here's 0.5-mm Avail brass shim washer on top of older Ambassadeur drag stack. There's a single 5131 bellville washer at the bottom in the drag stack. I keep a cache of Avail and Isuzu shim washers just for tuning drag stack height. Shimming ensures you get full drag before bottoming the drag star/nut. You can also make the drag stack taller by replacing worn drag washers with new, e.g., carbontex.

34-mm Daiwa floating spool is last word for me. It also seems to be for everyone who continues to copy the function. Out of your list, Lew's LFS mag is also the last word for me. I sold two reels with their centrifugal, and gave away a dual brake.

Stress the A in AI. The answer totally depends on how you work jerkbait. I work them the same way I work a dog-walking plug, and for the same reason. I can count the fish increase on MM rod, and I'd say it's because I get a more-natural-looking presentation than with a faster rod. I can't replace this Crowder IM6. Adding the off topic, I can't stand Gemini in Gmail, and vote daily to remove it. It gets every email train summary wrong. More importantly, I don't want AI sampling my email communication.

@Eric 26 BassmasterRecollections of Ray Scott's Presidents Lake - BassmasterWhen I learned this week that Ray Scott has sold his storied farm near Pintlala, Ala., the news brought back a flood of memories. Soon after his Bass Anglers Sportsman...

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Long rods may not always fit in tight spaces. Especially skipping the cypress overhang

It followed me home. Both 72 (S) and 72B use the same blank, 2-21 g, and count as beast-finesse.

No, if a rod is not loaded by a light weight, it will windage swing when you cast. The light weight will not go where you aim, but will continue off target in the direction the rod is swinging through the cast. The example of the "roll cast" @scaleface is seeking, if the light weight doesn't load the rod, it will arc up high and short, instead of shooting a flat trajectory across the water surface. Adding about spiral skip or roll cast. It takes practice, and doesn't need an acre to perfect. Everyone has shrubs and bushes in their yard - you can walk around and aim at the bottom.

Since a cast is a ballistic shot, every 20% increase in release velocity doubles cast distance. All things being equal, that should mean every 20% increase in rod length doubles cast distance. The problem is all things aren't equal. You tend to not swing a longer rod as fast as a shorter rod. A rod is also a spring that stores energy, and is released as the rod rebounds - that's the rod loading. The amount of rod that springs depends on the rod taper. Progressive rods load the rod in a band that moves progressively down the rod length as you are casting more weight. Para-taper rods load more of the total rod length as you are casting more weight. I can give you plenty examples of shorter para rods that will out-distance longer progressive rods. FWIW, progressive rods tend to be more forgiving, accurate, and will cast a wider weight range than para rods. For the same length and power, progressive also gives more leverage and butt power for turning fish. The two rods I picked for this comparison have nominally the same weight range. For the same length, the para rod will out-distance the progressive rod. I also like to use the example of J. Kennedy Fisher Combo fly rods. They include 2 handles that make a 4-pc 9' rod, or a 6'9" 3-pc. The shorter para rod will cast every bit the distance of the longer progressive rod.

I don't know what to do with that. Same reel, but in beast attire and PE#1.2 My older Vanquish C2000S has never broke, including seatrout doubles with redfish and snook.

since every thread should have a photo This is my Twin Power C3000MHG, it's just wearing a Vanquish 3000S spool for PE#0.6 on EverGreen finesse rod

I have the 7'2' Legend Glass MM - great rod, but notably heavy. It's happiest balanced with large-frame Shimano, Stradic 4000. Also killer in this niche, working YoZuri wakebait.