bulldog1935

5 years in salt If you're smart enough to disagree, you should also be smart enough not to call out another's experience in exception.

If you use cheap lubricants, it's probably a good idea to replace them every year. With the quality of synthetic lubricants made today, you can go many years without replacing them or rebuilding your drive. Spool bearings are a special situation. If you use unshielded spool bearings and micro-spool-bearings, they need a drop of oil about every month, or in the case of salt, a drop before each trip, and a drop after every trip to flush them. The harder you work your drive gears, the higher-viscosity grease you should use. The grease I like is MTCW-B for general gears, and MTCW-SW for high-load. Spool bearings can use much lower-viscosity bearing oils than normal rotating spindles need. The oils I use range from 5 cS to 55 cS bushing oil. Don't get carried away with any lube - I use an art brush to apply gear grease. Oil spreading out can destroy your drag washers and makes a general mess to collect dirt. Cal's is great drag grease - the way to apply drag grease is to make sure everything is wetted, especially inside and out edges, then essentially remove everything so the thinnest film remains.

If the mainshaft threads are fine, you only need a new nut. It's standard practice to make nuts from softer metal, so they will strip first. If the mainshaft threads are damaged, you need a mainshaft. one option is Plat.jp https://www.plat.co.jp/shop/catalog/partsorder.php?products_id=4068 If you go to that much trouble, throwing in a brass HD gearset is only $35 on your order.

@LCG both SV and SV Boost will cast 1/8 to 1 oz well. Boost gives a distance advantage on the heavy end by reducing start-up brake sooner.

Double uni is for tying lines of the same diameter. Smaller dia., esp., braid, can cut through single bend of larger dia. I've beern rolling Allbright knots that shoot through fly rod snake guides for 35 years - no reason to change now. The key to tightening this knot is remember the direction you wrapped the braid, and roll the loops in that direction as you snug the braid tag. Before it's fully tight, take up all you can on the leader tag. Final tighten standing ends. Diagram shows 10 + 5. I tie them 14 + 4. I wet the finished knot with pink Zap CA+

Let's do the math here. If you cast with wrist snap, SV will CYA and remove jerk energy from your cast, which also slows the spool start-up response. If you cast without wrist snap, SV functions more as a linear mag brake and casts every bit as far as Revo or Lew's linear mag - both depend on how you set your mag. If you don't want SV, you can use fixed-inductor spool in Daiwa and it will only have linear mag. Put a 4-g spool in your Zillion ot Steez, and hang on. This is the reason you will see people with marginal cast habits say their SV is reliable but costs them distance, while others say their SV out-casts everything else. SV Boost is for heavier weights, MagZ and MagZ Boost are for heavier yet.

Much better fit than a 12-point socket, same fit as a 6-point, which it is. It's lightweight, and common alloy with most handle nuts - unlikely to scratch or mark alloy nuts.

It takes up less space on your bench than a ratchet handle, applies more torque than any screw-/nut-driver handle. KDW wrench comes in a nice box, but mine seems to never get put away - I keep bits in the box.

@Jonny15678 - funny, my favorite Lew's and a couple others have a Torx30 socket nut on an aftermarket handle, and I added matching KDW bit to a Hedgehog order today. But simply, most reels with M7 and M8 mainshaft nuts fit the 10-mm socket that's the base of the KDW wrench - true for most every 100- and 150-size reel (going up to 300 size reels may need 11- or 12-mm socket, which KDW sells a socket bit for their wrench).

Anyone who bench tunes will have a different knowledge base, because results are proportional to spool mass and bearing inertia, along with brake type - reducing spool and spool bearing inertia needs less brake force to get the same brake result, and more cast energy goes into distance.

I dig it. I have the add-on 11-mm handle nut socket, which fits some larger reels, and I have the 1/4-inch hex-bit socket, which is worth its weight in gold. Makes spinning and tightening a handle nut a snap. More important, I had this used Daiwa CV-Z that needed a rebuild, and the original owner had stripped a PH1 M2.5 flathead still sealed with factory Blue Loctite. An EZ-out would only make it worse. I used a jeweler's hammer and PH2 bit to form new cross slots, fit that with a PH2 bit, and was able to break the factory Blue Loctite with torque from my KDW wrench. I replaced all the PH1 M2.5 with hex-socket flatheads and the Correct Purple Loctite (Daiwa never learns). Different project, new HD brass gears on 5-salt-year '21 Zillion

Yamaga Blanks beast finesse, Blue Current Wizy 72/B I got to cast it this week, and it's definitely the fastest baitfinesse Y/B has made. I like it, but everything feels minor after a day on Monday pendulum-casting my 14' Zzeta ZZiPlex conventional rod.

yes

I remember a backlash in 2018 - it was because I had a single line wrap on my rod tip. (Loaded back-up reel and fished a great morning at Little Cut). Only backlash I can remember. How many people do you know fishing threadline braid on conventional surf reels (and pendulum cast) - takes high confidence in your reel setup. Careful with the messing around thing. Treat it as a system, understand the parts of the system, why, how, and when to adjust each part. Mag is for mid-cast, centrifugal is for start-up.

That will work, or if you know you're going from casting 1/2 oz to over 1 oz, change the number of centrifugal shoes as needed. @Banned User look at this mag set as baseline for your spool + line mass. You can add a mag notch or two for casting into wind, subtract a notch or two for max distance casting heavy weights.

The way you should set your dual brake is set mag casting your light end to dial out mid-cast backlash (no centrifugal) - set this way, mag is compensating full time for the mass of the spool, line, and centrifugal. Then pick number of centrifugal shoes casting your heavy end to prevent start-up backlash. All with zero spool tension, which you add on the water in tiny amounts as needed. This worked well enough for me setting on short rod casting 100+ feet, to backlash-proof casting 14' rod beyond 100+yards

This has been the best for 5 years, and after 5 salty years, it's just getting warmed up.

I've been working on these, and looks we have a good surf window tomorrow...

@A-Jay Short, lighter version is my 5'8" Falcon Glass (again, not composite) - in longer lengths, this rod series is too heavy to want to fish, but it always fished Everything in 3/8-oz perfectly. Again, para taper cast distance belies its short length.

@A-Jay's longer composite is clearly a fast para taper, which he's also praised before. Easy to see the bend difference here, this rod is progressive tip in Toray carbon (not composite), 7'1"

Most everything you want to do with a shorter rod benefits from composite MOC. My specific niches are close fishing and skip-casting. Composite gives you the ability to have a moderate/ progressive tip with a more powerful fish-handling mid and butt in a short rod, also with a wide lure-weight range. The opposite of this in a shorter rod is a para taper, fast tip, which gets maximum cast distance over a narrow weight range, and strikes fast. I have two extreme composite rods for close-fishing from river kayak, both made by Bright River. Concorde is only 5', S-glass tip, and graphite-wrap butt, excels at close-skipping under cypress overhang, and horsing fish, and also best with finesse to medium topwater plugs. I made the mistake one day of fishing finesse buzzbait and bladed jig with this rod, brought a couple of fish to hand, but missed more, because the tip wouldn't strike either lure fast enough. More recently, added 5-1/2' Satori, which is a better all-around taper, skip-casts to surprising distance, and fishes the lures the Concorde won't. This composite is S-glass with a 4-axis carbon skeleton over the full length, giving it powerful rebound, and a fast progressive tip. Also has Magic-wand kind of accuracy. If you don't mind an older fly rod reference, I have 7-1/2' 5-wt Lamiglas Perigree, blend of graphite and S-glass, which was only offered as blank. This configuration doesn't work well in graphite - makes kind of a tomato stake, where 8-1/2' and longer graphite makes a great taper. The mid-weight and length is often heavy in glass (with the exception of really good S-glass - Fisher). The Perigree does everything you want in a fly rod, and is shocking light-in-hand - the power of a 5-wt, but weighs like a 3-wt.

6 full turns by finger to tight and the handle is square and snug. If the nut binds up with the handle loose, you're cross threaded. Try turning the nut backwards until it finds the right thread start, then tighten it by hand. 6 full turns by hand. Varies a bit by handle style, but round recesses in alloy and especially carbon handles should be filled with these keyed stainless washers that match the mainshaft end. This way, you're tightening on stainless steel rather than carbon/resin or soft alloy. Adding ps - tightening the socket head nut (torx) on Gomexus handle will meet resistance from the rubber o-ring. It will require using the tool for final 3 turns to tight. Before that, you should still be able to free turn enough by hand to recognize the threads are aligned. Do me a favor. Don't swap gears or drive bearings in your reel.

Did you verify the handle was sitting on the mainshaft shoulder and hold it there while you install the handle nut? If handle is seated on the mainshaft shoulder and you have the handle nut threads aligned on the mainshaft, you should be able to finger-turn the nut about 6 full turns until it bottoms out, and the handle will be square and snug. Then you should only need a wrench to tighten about a quarter-turn (or less). You're either cross-threading the handle nut, or tightening the drag star misaligned on top of the square nut (4700) instead of aligned and seated. This is the right aftermarket star drag, has the adjustment-clicker boss on the top face. The square nut 4700 must sit recessed in the square key in order for you to push against the spring and expose the mainshaft shoulder above the top washer. If the square nut is sitting on the star-drag internal shoulder, the handle isn't sitting on the mainshaft shoulder. If you have that part right, then the only other explanation is you have the handle nut cross-threaded, and only think it's tight. _____________________ OK, went digging and found one. Mainshaft shoulder above drag star face. If you can't see this, you can't install a handle. Only on your reel, you have to push the aligned drag star down against the spring to see this, and hold it here while you install the handle.

Ill give you a like Scotty. Nice about alloy nuts, they strip instead of stripping mainshaft threads. Try hand fit up of nut without the handle to determine if it's stripped. You can always use the old M7 nut while you replace the color nut you want. Also, handle nuts are too easy to cross thread. Make sure they're turning freely by hand before you tighten with a wrench, or you'll strip them for sure. ________________ Show and tell for @F14A-B - Zzeta Abu handle on 7x4-mm mainshaft with Amazon shim, but couldn't use Zzeta socket-head M8 nut. So I used a Shimano M7 spindle end tension cap, and 9x1.5 mm square o-ring to tension the joint- works great.

here's the shim washer Amazon sells to fit 8x5-mm Daiwa/Abu/Lew's handle on 7x4-mm Shimano mainshaft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCK9DFC LH wind uses LH thread, RH uses RH. Shimano thread is M7