casts_by_fly

I thought about it. Speed isn’t the issue. Sure it would be nice, but more so I want a little more space, a rod locker, and dry storage. I want to have the boat loaded and ready so when I pull down to the ramp I pop off the cover, undo the straps, and drop it in. It’s getting tiring having to load everything in and out every trip. Lifting the boat in and out of the truck every trip. Not having dry storage so any time I fish in the rain all of my tackle bag gets soaked through and needs to be laid out when I get home. Having to choose just 5 rods or so. The light kayak that gets blown around if I’m trying to scope fish. Never having the ability to take someone else with me, even if it’s once or twice a year. Having to make the choice if I’m going to carry rain gear that day because it’s too hot to wear it but I don’t want to leave it in the rear well. The autopilot has been great for me. It’s a fishing machine. I’ve been out in 3’ waves, 36 degree water, 30 mph winds, and weed beds so thick that I wouldn’t have been able to walk through them yet the AP just grinds through. I would definitely miss it to get rid of it and I’d probably keep it a while after a new boat. But, given the opportunity for something a little bigger, drier, and more versatile, I think I will take it. I wasn’t thinking about a 9.9 jet. If I did end up with a jet motor it would be a full size like you mentioned and then I’d either just use the trolling motor on the 9.9 lakes or I’d try to squeeze a 9.9 tiller on the same transom. Or, in the rare case I found a tiller jet boat I’d swap motors in the garage. Though a 60/40 jet has to be over 200# and not a simple swap without a hoist.

now that you’ve done that and eliminated areas, don’t forget to go back and fish them. On my favorite lake I had eliminated a bunch of water after two seasons of fishing it. All of the other areas produced all of the fish. Until they didn’t. And then the fish were in the areas I eliminated. Now I maybe make a few more casts to the ‘good’ areas but I don’t skip over the other stuff. Sometimes you just have to put the trolling motor down and fish.

definitely the problem. There is no ceramic insert left and you’re on the bare metal. It looks like the tip was crushed at some point also, either before or after losing the ceramic ring. You need a replacement tip top and thats a 5 minute job. The new tip top will cost $3 or so. I’d suggest an Alconite. Take it to a shop if you have one nearby. Or do it yourself with some YouTube help.

ok, that makes more sense. If you’re in plenty enough water in a lake at the dock you can reverse the stream and slow down or back up. Maybe not as maneuverable as a prop boat, but it’s not the same as a jet ski. kinda. Starting with an autopilot and a 7” helix is jumping in with both feet into the kayak world. And as much as I wanted a boat then, it wasn’t on the cards practically for the family. That said, a glass boat isn’t practical in any way for me. My garage space constraints are one. I just don’t have the place to put one. I considered a rental space when I was going to refurb my dads boat. It would be $100 a month for an outside parking space, which while not insurmountable wasn’t good value for money for an uncovered space in a locked yard. More importantly though, we don’t have big water here where I could use it. We have exactly 4 lakes in the state that I’m aware of that are unlimited horsepower (at least in the top half of the state that I know of). One is 193 acres with a solid third of that lily pad covered. One is 300 acres and averages 4’ deep with a lot of it far less and lots of burrier rocks. The third is 375 acres and a bowl. Also doesn’t have a public launch for a trailered boat. All three of those lakes can be fished in a glass boat with a 200 hp (though launching at one of them would be a bugger) but in the time you’d fire up the big motor and get on plane you’re where you need to be. And wind is only a major concern at one of them. The fourth lake is the biggest in the state and worthy of a glass boat. However, it gets the most pressure of any lake in the state for tournaments (most every th-sun from April to September) and also has pleasure boat traffic comparable to the worst of the south east or ozarks lakes (in boats per acre). I’ve fished it once in the past two years. Practically speaking, the lakes I fish now and the ones that would get added with a boat of some type are all 100-2000 acres and limited in some way. A 14’ v-bottom with a 9.9 would get me from end to end on all of them in under 10 minutes. Speed isn’t a requirement and 15-20mph would be fine. the two motor approach is something I’ve considered, especially if I get a tiller boat or one that can fit a kicker motor on the transom. For the rare occasion where I could fire up a bigger motor it wouldn’t hurt to have more than a 9.9 and then have a 9.9 electric or gas for the lakes restricted as such. If I’m ordering new though it’s a 9.9 gas. If I build custom it’s a 9.9 electric. Buying used you buy the good boat and add the thing you need. rick

Check the guides as noted. A chipped insert will strip mono like gift wrap ribbon.

Are you sure it’s bass and not bluegills hitting it?

that’s my baseline for comparison. A 170 fits the bill. They are everywhere on the used market in various states of age, quality and price. is there really no reverse on a jet? I read that and understand why. But that would be a real PIA.

All of the above. And I'd throw in the weather/fish's mood changes day to day so the days you got last year aren't the days you got this year. Up here the weather has been sunny and dry all summer. No rain and few windy days. That'll fish very different to a mostly grey summer with lots of rain and wind.

I just found the storm the other day. Its the first 16' mod-V I've seen with a rod locker. All of the others (like the tracker 160) have PVC tubes for the tips and exposed hangers for the reels. I want a full rod box and this has that (albeit a small one). My dad has a tracker 162 (or 165 maybe) and that's the one thing that drives me nuts. Think they would do a NJ special and sell me a 20 with 9.9 stickers...? if I were to buy new, this would be one of the first boats to measure. The width is fine. The storage length is 20' 1" which would probably work on an angle since its not very wide. Rod box, dry storage, etc. I'd really like a 175, but I think it would be millimeter tight since its 7'6" wide and the door is 7'10" I've said for the past 3 years (after I didn't refurbish my dad's old stratos and after I bought the kayak) that if I ever got a true boat it would be an aluminum conversion. Starting point would be a 16' V bottom and I'd basically make it like a pro-v bass or TV18 but in a 16' platform. Add a 9.9 electric, spotlock motor, and move my electronics from the kayak. Then I have a setup that can fish all of my waters (aside from the river), not feel limited in space or speed, and have all of the features I want. Right now, I'm questioning if I want to put that much personal time in. I love a good project as much as the next guy and I'm pretty handy already. If it was a year ago I would have done it. But getting a new job that takes a lot more time during the day means I couldn't steal away for a half hour on a tuesday to do something. I think I can get an already complete 170 tracker or similar with all of the features I want at about the same total cost and not spend the time doing it. It might not have the prettiest carpet or seats, but those are things that can be done easily if needed. Not saying I won't go down the custom route, but I am weighing all of the options very carefully here.

Express has the XP170 and 180 that are skinny enough. they are long, but don't have a folding tongue I don't think. I also don't think I have a dealer around to check them. However for completeness I've added them to the research list. Alumacraft added. Ideally I'd want something with a higher front deck (personal preference) but a 16' deep V (tracker has quite a few also) isn't the worst choice for me. That's a good shout. I know there are other glass boats out that were in the 16' range also. I will consider them, though I think a 16' aluminum is probably a better choice. I want rod lockers and dry storage. Those are must haves. Anything beyond that I'm flexible. The foldaway tongue is going to be my saving grace I think. Some boats have it, but I'm also handy enough to put a fulton bolt on onto a trailer that doesn't already have it. If I were to build a custom from scratch it would be a tiller. That would give a good bit more storage and deck space for sure. The electric only lakes around are generall smaller and a trolling motor is plenty to fish them all day, even on a single group 31 (for the biggest). I'm fishing everything trolling motor only right now with the autopilot (45lb thrust, though a light boat setup). The 9.9 lakes are bigger though. At 1200 acres I can fish that one now and as long as I plan my movements and don't go crazy I am fine with a single 80 AH lithium. Another is 2300 acres and while I've fished it in the kayak on electric, its bigger than practical. I've seen 20' bassboats on it with 36V bow mounts, but getting the nearly 3 miles to the back of the lake is something. I have considered a jet. We have the delaware nearby and that would unlock a hundred miles of river that I don't currently fish. It would be an electric only the rest of the time (short of a small kicker motor to fit on the transom). Ours are the same as yours. You can have the big motor and even have it in the water, you just can't use it. One of the lakes has threatened to for people to remove props as theye have had instances of boats firing up their bigmotors when it wasn't an emergency. And also power loading at the ramp.

Hi all, As I’m sure a lot of you know, I love my autopilot kayak. But, I’m pretty sure I got the clearance to get a boat so I’m double checking my prior research. For background, the lakes around here are largely either 9.9 hp restricted or electric only. There are three unrestricted lakes but I only fish one of them for the most part and this year I think I had a total of 1 trip to all of them. On top of that, my garage is 94” wide at the opening (and that’s exact) with a 19’ 8” storage length with no possibility for a bump out or other. It’s a three car garage so angling it to gain an inch or three is possible. Though, the garage door is 90 degrees angled from the driveway so I’ll have to back it close and hand push it in (or get a yard jockey). I'd love to have a 20’ pro-v bass with a 200hp but it won’t fit and isn’t practical for my waters. Realistically speaking, the best and most versatile setup would be a 16’ aluminum boat that is decked like a pro-v bass and has a 9.9 hp electric motor on the back. That would be a full custom and I’ve thought about it, but I want to see how close I can get in a factory used boat. any added brands beyond the below I need to look into? rick tracker lowe crestliner ranger express Lund Alumacraft

Since you’re throwing topwater, mono is probably a better choice than fluoro. if visibility is your concern, get some darker colored line like sunline supernatural. I throw 16# supernatural in brown and I don’t worry one bit about visibility and our water clarity is 4-10’ year round more or less.

There is something to be said for putting in the time on your own lakes, fish them with a whole bunch of different things at different times, and adapt from there. Doing that, you can figure out the things and styles you like to fish as well as what the fish like on your waters. But the kitchen sink method can only go so far. You can only throw one rod at a time and time is limited. What I’ve found useful is to fish with someone who knows what they are doing and learn something. For me, I try to fish with my dad a couple times a year. I mean, he’s only been doing it for 50 years so…. Putting him on my lakes and seeing how he approaches it is something new. Me going to his lakes and fishing what I think I should be while he does his usual thing is similar.

I’ve been out a handful of times. I passed an 8 pt (among others) that wasn’t a mature buck. Tines were only 3-6” long across the rack and 15” inside spread. I passed a doe that had a young of the year with her (passed twice actually). The past two days have a lot of deer moving around in this cold front. I’m seeing new bucks out and about. I just want the bigger 8 that’s running around to make an appearance. this one is the target, though I’m on the fringe of his range I think. this guy almost got shot (I was drawn on him twice the first sit I saw him), and then I decided not to. I’ve passed him a couple times now.

You might struggle with capacity. I have 17# elite mono on mine. It is 0.016” diameter. I’ve got about 55-60 yards on it. Elite is pretty thick. If you’re using something like sniper where 20# is 0.0146” then you’ll be fine. If you’re thinking big game fluoro at 0.019” then you won’t get enough line on. That said, I’d question why you’re looking at 20# line for chatterbaits. Maybe you have something specific in mind, but for most applications that’s a lot heavier than you need. Something in the .013” range is a solid choice. The thinner line will let the bait run deeper and truer, and it will be easier to cast and manage.

I grew up fishing what you’re describing. I’ve fished it from a 500 size reel on a fiberglass ultralight to a 9’ steelhead medium with a 4k. It’s all about the size of the stream/river. Large impoundment outflow? Go longer. Smaller streams you can jump over in the summer? Short Ultralight. also, the things you’re fishing. A single split shot and a small live worm goes lighter power. Bigger lures then more power. Since you’re fishing an ultralight now, I’m going to guess that a 9’ 3/8-3/4 steelhead rod isn’t the right fit. In that case, I’d look at a 7’ (give or take a couple inches) medium or medium light. Something rated 1/8-1/2 or so, maybe a little more. You’ll be able to throw smaller plastics and jigs but also throw a dt10 or a nightcrawler rig and not worry. For the reel, balance is what I need. For the rod above, I’d go with a 3k size. Better to have the capacity and not need it than need it and not have it. if you end up with a 7’3” medium then a 4k wouldn’t be out of place. I like braid to leader on a spinning outfit EXCEPT in this application. Every spillway and creek I’ve ever fished is full of snags, rocks, logs etc. A leader should break before the braid but not if the braid gets wrapped in the snag too. I hate line flapping in the current that you couldn’t pull out and had to cut off. For that reason I’d prefer a faster action rod and maybe round up if you’re between powers then stick with mono (8-10 lb probably).

You’re saying a lot of things that resonate with my locations and strategies. Most of the lakes here are much smaller than a lot talk about. I’m fishing a lot of 200 acre and smaller lakes, no major creek arms or anything like that, relatively shallow, plenty of pressure, etc. A few differences also- I have plenty of weeds in most, shad are less important than sunfishes, and mine are almost all horsepower restricted so no ‘rocking’ on most. Last 2 years I bounced around a dozen lakes through the year. This year I had less time so I focused mostly on my best one to learn it better. I won’t say that I’ve got them figured out year round or can catch a bass on any given day. Last time out I managed a pair of pickerel and that was it. But focusing on one lake during different conditions, pressure, etc I learned things I might not have twigged otherwise. a couple things I learned that might help. - pressure is real. In April on an average lake the fish have had a winter to forget. In September they have seen a ton all year. You might think everyone else is a great angler and catching them all but lots of guys have no clue and are just throwing things around and educating bass. So finding places guys aren’t fishing, tiny covers, hidden spots within a spot, etc. are great. Overlooked areas. When bass on a given log get pressured, they swim off. They will come back if it’s a great log, but if five boats an hour are fishing that log they might just not come back. So where’s the next nearest place they will stop? It’s probably the next deepest drop or first piece of isolated cover that’s a 20-100’ away. - pressure is real pt. 2- have you fished a white spinnerbait? Yeah, someone else has too. Figure out what others aren’t fishing. Downsize, upsize, underwhelm with color, overwhelm with color. Do something no one else is then. - fish the bite windows. I know in august on my best lake that the fish go very nocturnal. When the sun pops over the hill they just shut off. The last hour before sunrise they can be slamming a buzzbait. Then the sky lightens and they will lightly hit a buzzbait or maybe slam a subsurface moving bait. Once the sun pops over they just shut off. You can keep throwing moving baits up or down in the column. You can slow down in the areas holding fish and throw plastics and jigs on the bottom. You can throw finesse. But that first two hours after the sun pops they just shut down. Their bellies are full from the night and they need time to digest. I take breakfast then.

When you can’t consistently set the hook at that distance with the lure and rig you just threw. A really high quality sharp lighter wire single hook and an 8/0 owner beast that has to drive through a toad body are going to be different. Of course you pick the rod and line for the lure and distance. My frog rod with 50 braid- I can’t outcast the hood set distance. Lighter rods and mono? YMMV.

a keitech 4.3 is just under that as is a 4” zako. Both of which make great trailers for a big jig you’re swimming along. That said, that’s a pretty extreme example. a magnum rage bug is a half ounce also.

I would get in touch with litime before making any conclusions. They could have some BMS programming that is restricting the voltage after a period of non-use to prevent leakage. Then when you start using it it 'wakes up' to the standard voltage.

I agree with you that dragging and pitching would be very different. But, If we're talking about an SWaver 168 and a 3/4 oz pitching jig, then the amistad would actually be a good choice (a rod that is often recommended for the same applications as the perfect pitch). I think the Falcon dragger 2 would also (7'6" 1/2-1.5 oz) but I haven't held it or fished it.

Yeah, unless you were making long runs between spots (like 30 minutes straight) then you barely touched the capacity on that battery. Just using the trolling motor as a trolling motor and not a transit motor takes negligible amperage. I bet you used maybe 8-10 ah tops which is under 10% of the capacity.

It really depends on what type of jigs and cover you want. And, if also formalizes what size glides. I’ll throw the Falcon amistad out as a good compromise rod. It’s a great 1/2-3/4 oz jig rod (and will do up to a 1.25 well also for pitching). With 20# big game or similar I have no problem throwing it into heavy pads or laydowns. It’s only 7’3” so not quite the length you want. I also throw 6” magdrafts and 2.5oz a rigs on it. Again, it’s probably not perfect for them, but it does well enough and I don’t need to carry and technique specific rod. rick

yeah, about the most you can get away with is an inch, and that's only on a rod that is fairly moderate in taper. A faster tapered rod (i.e. lighter tip) loses so much more bend in the first couple inches that just putting a tip top on will reult in a rod that's of limited utility- - catfishing - tomato stakes - permanent line winding stub However, the o'quinn method that mick posted works incredibly well for most all rods. I've done it for a few (still need to do one fly rod I have downstairs) and the resulting rod will have the same action as it had before if you do it well. If you have the materials to do it, its an easy process with just a little patience. Having/finding a sleeve is the trickiest part. Most people don't have a dozen broken rods/pieces sitting around to match and fit one.

JDM stradic and be done with it. I prefer the 2500/3000 sized frame, but YMMV.