Bigbox99

It won't hurt but a different casting technique is needed with heavy baits to reduce wrist and forearm fatigue. You really shouldn't cast these heavy baits with the same wrist and forearm intensive casting stroke as normal bass baits or you will wear yourself out. For baits over 3 oz (your weight range for fatigue will vary) I use a casting technique I call "bend and send". I put the rod over my shoulder and to cast I let the weight of the bait preload the rod from the motion of placing it over my shoulder and cast by pulling down on the rod butt and pushing the reel seat up and forward with my other arm using my shoulders to put in power and rod loading as a spring while my butt grip arm pulls back to rotate the rod parallel to the right arm.

If you want you can get an entire "swimbait" rod and reel for around $80. 76H Vengence from Walmart for - $50 Seasir Megacuda from Aliexpress - $30 It handes 2oz baits just fine and I will be trying out a hudd 68 special rof12 this spring.

They still sell them on Aliexpress. That's where Gomexus stuff all originally came from. They want $17 for a knob now. Last time I ordered just knobs They were around $5 a peice.

Daiwa.

That sounds like a stuck inductor. The other issue is that the base will break free from the spool and will allow the braking force of the magnets and inductor to rotate the entire Air Brake assembly on the spool instead of transferring that braking force to the spool. It's a weird thing because of the friction of the assembly on the spool shaft is enough that the spool will behave normally under light casting conditions and only revel itself on a hard bomb cast. It's actually these hard bomb casts that did in my black ramp 17 Tatula SV Air Brake base. I sheared the little plastic pegs right off the base that clips into the spool. I just disassembled it and super it glued it to the spool.

I came back to recommend exactly this but a silver gomexus handle with the TPE or cork power knobs. It would be a crime not to put a machined silver handle on a machined silver reel.

Most likely it was the inductor ramp base that was broken and allowing the inductor to fully rotate instead of lock after a 1/4 turn. This will make the reel backlash mid cast even when turning up the brakes and also over brake at the end of the cast because you have the brakes so high to compensate for the issue. I had this happen to a 17 Tatula SV.

99% sure it will. "Daiwa" handle shaft is pretty much the industry standard. I wouldn't mix and match knobs and nut retainers and stick with what comes with the handle you use.

I'd rather have the high end Shimano rod like Posion Glorious or Ultima for the looks alone. The conquest is too old fashioned looking for me and depending on the year the high end Shimano and Conquest are the same blank iirc. I really only like those traditional looking rods when pairing with a round reel.

They are the same size. If you want a higher capacity tiny reel then look at the Bates Hundo or go direct to Loongze. Oh, and if you want a tiny Tatula the 80 is the one to get and around $100. I have one with a cheap carbon handle on it that makes it feel like a mini Zillion HD.

I do that with my lefties when making shorter casts and pitching. For propper bomb casting I move my hand down and off the reel to free up more wrist.

You can. You will want to switch up grips from a casting grip to a palming the reel grip so it doesn't really matter what hand you reel with since you will be effectively changing hands between casting and palming no matter which hand you use. I use both but it really comes down to what you learn on.

It has a centrifugal driven magnet brake. If you want to change the spool you can but the Tatula 100 also takes the same spools and also cheaper from Japan or Aliexpress. The Tatula CT is really only sold in the US market making it overpriced compared to reels available to you from other markets. This is not to mention that it's a $100 2016 reel updated with new paint in 2020 for $150 or whatever scamwarehouse wants for it.

This is the correct answer. People have been using baitcast reels since forever to cast light weight baits. The term BFS didn't enter the bass fishing world lexicon until the 2010s when these types of bass rods that could cast tiny baits while still having a ton of backbone and power came out. This also coincided with the wide adoption of fluorocarbon line and the combination of the two made for the best way to present finesse baits into cover for highly pressured fish. There simply aren't spinning rods that combine that sort of soft tip and backbone. It's not that's its not possible to design a spinning rod that way it's just that a casting rod was chosen when the 1st rod of this build was made and was casting rod specifically to use baitcast reels with light fluoro and the rest was history. It's a complete misnomer that BFS means casting light weights with a baitcaster. People have been doing that long before BFS was a thing and many manufactures that have casting versions of L and UL trout rods do not call them BFS rods and instead use that specifically to refer to a L or UL rod in their bass line of rods. To distill it down to its simplest element "BFS" is a type of bass casting rod. It's a nebulous term today because as soon as it leaked out of enthusiast circles that were importing and using these rods the wider fishing scene latched onto the term and has applied it to literally everything involving casting light weight baits with a baitcast reel. Turn on captions and set them to auto translate to English to hear the story of BFS (you will have to use the youtube app for this).

It's bogus. It does not support the pinion at all when the spool is in place and it only there to keep the pinion from flopping around when the spool is removed. It does absolutely nothing when the spool is in the reel. Its not detrimental to the reel to have it in there and it does keep the pinion in place when the spool is removed so that's nice. I guess.

Yes, lots and lots

Some people like that. I used to think they were just incompetent but that this point is has to be intentional and there is clearly a market for it. There are quite a few older gentlemen in bass fishing and I am 100% sure Loomis uptake with 55+ is very high compared to other brands. Think of them as the Harley Davidson of fishing rods.

No, not at all other than a preference in gear ratios between the two which is highly overstated these days. A 6:1 is perfectly fine for jig and worms despite everyone needing an 8:1. 6.8:1 was "hyper speed" not long ago.

Don't overlook the Shimano BFS versions of their casting rods lines. They may not sell them on TW but the L powered Zodias, Expride, Posion Adrena and Posion Glorious are all legit Japense BFS rods. You can get these from Japan for pretty reasonable prices. Frankly I would even be looking at non Japenese brands. It's like ordering sushi at the burger place. The only BFS rod on TW I would consider in the 68L Day's because Majorcraft knows how to build a BFS rod and the Volkey was the gateway drug into BFS for early adopter of these kind of bass rods in the US.

It only makes sense to use it to take advantage of spooling with straight fluoro and to use the BFS rods which are typically much more powerful than a similar UL/L/ML spinning rod with UL or L rods having M powered rod like backbones and shutting off after the 1st guide. That has been my experience with BFS rods from Japan. I have no idea if the US rods are like this or even if they know what they are doing. I would just get a Majorcraft Day's L and Tatula 70 SV or BF 70 if you're the buy off TW kind of guy. Spool with 10# sniper and go cast and skip weightless small plastics and jigs into cover.

I like aluminum frame and aluminum side plate reels with smooth gearing for winding in high resistance baits. Any frame materials that allow for more flex than aluminum can cause a loss of winding power when the under load such as a fish or the bait is balled up in weeds. It won't stop you from bringing in fish but the drop in power is noticeable compared to a more solid reel. Its not a performance issue. I just find it unpleasant. I also like reels with a more distance orientated braking profile and a TWS or cone level wind to allow non braid to flow out easily on bomb casts. For jig and plastics I like a lighter reel that may be less solid feeling under load but I'm going to be spending my time using the rod to move the bait rather than the reel hande and that lighter weight reel ideally also in a smaller form factor is preferable. A more control orientated braking profile is also preferred since I will be skipping baits under docks and low handing branches.

There was also rugbyfisherman on TT that would paint reels and then sell them on the forum. He was famous (with me at least) for his camo paint jobs. It started with a red and silver camo Megabass IS63 and then I bought his urban camo Megabass IS73 the instant I saw it for sale. I followed his photobucket or insta or whatever people were using in 2018 after he disappeared from TT and I saw he had done a blue/white artic camo TD-Z. Canadian guy called MK customs on IG or something like that. I wish to this day I saved pics of that red/silver camo IS63.

You can already do all those things on a medium speed reel like a 6.X:1 with a 36mm spool or a 7.X:1 with a 32mm spool. Of all those baits listed the rod and line choice would be the limiting factor rather than the reel ratio. I have a 6.5:1 36mm spool reel on a 7'6" H rod that I can run a 25 foot deep running crankbait on and then go burn a buzzbait up top. I'll be crawling a hud and punching 1oz tungsten with it this year after I swap out the 12 pound mono for braid. I do like the idea. Rather than multiple ratios it would be cool to see an infinitely variable ratio reel that drops down to a lower ratio when it senses high torque being applied like on a super deep crank and moves up to a high ratio when little to no torque is being applies like burning a bait back to make another cast. The same handle rotation speed and cadence would be maintained but the gear ratio would be variable.

Sagisi customs used to do a lot of creosote reels. My favorite was his TD ITO themed Steez CT.

That doesn't sound bad at all to me. It sounds like most my non hyperdrive gears in my magnesium frame or aluminum frame with plastic hand side plate reels. If that's the new Steez or the 70 Antares I would be upset with that level of noise.