Bigbox99

Sounds like a classic BFS bait to me. These small jigs meant to imitate grass shrimp paired to a L or ML BFS rod and fluoro are a Japanese thing that hasn't really caught on here. We seem to be more interested in the Ned rig.

I do it all the time. It's how I got bit last Saturday. I jerk from left to right with a right hand reel while seated in a kayak. The only difference is that my jerkbait rod is a Levante JBS and it's tip heavy. It's perfect for tip down working while standing but then seated the tip heaviness will wrench the little nub trigger out from between my fingers and then stab with in the finder with it sometimes. The same nub trigger on my topwater tip floaty Otomat doesn't do this so it's a combination of the nub trigger, a tip heavy rod and jerking across my chest while seated. It's an odd thing I discovered with this rod and kayak fishing.

Check Aliexpress for cheap SLX reels.

It's supposed to be over that bar.

The line is clearly in the wide portion of the T Wing while being wound onto the spool. The line should only flow out of the wide portion on the cast and should be in the narrow portion and wound on precisely when the handle is turned. You can see the line at the far left portion of the T Wing when it should be at the white line location when being wound on.

I think your filler spool is too high and allowing line to get into the wide part of the T Wing. The T Wing (when the line stays in the small portion) lays line super precisely. I usually just leave the filler spool in the box and wind the line onto the reel through the 1st guide with the box of line standing upright between my feet while sitting down. You can probably duplicate this with your spooling contraption by tugging the line down in front of the reel while spooling. Yeah, the line is not down in the narrow portion of the T Wing and this is the issue. You can respool or just go make a long cast with something and walk off a ton of line and wind it back on. It will lay line like normal once on a rod. Your spooling thing is not playing nicely with the reel is all.

Those are the same platform as the BPS Pro Qualifier from the 2010s everyone loved. That particular gen was the most recommended $100 reel at the time and many users here used them and put them through their paces. Some still use them regularly to this day. That Doyo platform was particularly long lived and well received. The JM is a higher end or nicer version of that reel with dual aluminum side plates and fancy plate finish. They're good workhorse reels but don't handle non braid very well. I've got the wide spool JM from that gen and won't use it again until I move it to braid. The JM could be worth up to $100+ with box and paperwork to the right buyer. Finding a buyer is key.

A reel warranty is not a is not "my reel will meet my expectations of smooth forever" contract. You should expect some loss of smoothness with use.

User error such as high sticking, stepping on them or otherwise mishandling rods including larping as a pro angler and boat flipping fish.

The current 24 Tatula, Tatula 80, Tatula 70, Zillion and Alphas have hyperdrive gears. The new Tatula SV 150 HD (which shares a platform with the Tatula/Fuego CT and original Tatula/Tatula HD) also comes with hyperdrive gears meaning you can most likely upgrade old Tatulas to hyperdrive. Except yours. If you have the last gen 100 platform then that is not supported by hyperdrive gears and looks like Dawia is moving away from it entirely since they migrated their Coastal 150 SV to the new 24 Tatula platform.

It might be normal for that reel. I don't have that gen of Tatula but I have heard lots of reports of then not staying smooth and Daiwa has abandoned that platform and moved on to a new a hyperdrive gear set and new platform as well as adding hyperdrive to the original tatula platform they still use in their CT and HD Tatulas. You might want to replace the gear set if you are 100% sure it has gone rough.

The cone level wind might have been something the earlier Aldes/Cores might not have had. I can't find a picture of one without one but my Scorpion 1000xt doesn't have one. I don't know of this was a premium feature the alde/core had over the scorpion/curado or if this was something that was added later in the production.

Burn and pause a lipless crank in pockets near the dam and shallows of main lake points that are known hunting grounds for your lake. This is what I did my last outing in Nebraska and got bit.

Love these L bill baits but they are warm water grass baits for me. I'd want a flat side square bill crank for cold water and wood.

I have the same reel but the BFS version and I'd say the brake is pretty important but I don't run any spool tension. You could just crank down on the spool tension for a slow drop and you basically have braking profile of an antique reel but it will work. I'd contact Ardent but if you can't get anywhere with that then you have other options below. Those reels are rebranded Haibos and that centrifugal brake is prone to falling off. Mine fell off multiple times on my Haibo Smart. It's so bad there is a conversion kit on aliexpress for the Haibo Smart and Steed. $8.80 | Small tools to change haibo smart from dual brake to magnetic brake https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO2QhjZ Or you can just buy the brakes if the holder isn't broken. $4.99 | HaiBo Smart Fishing Reel Centrifugal 6pcs Brake Bean Accessories https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMystrh Or just buy a whole Haibo reel for $58 so now you have a parts reel $58.00 | Haibo STEED Baitcasting fishing reel Left/right hand All metal Centrifugal 6.5:1 8+1 Bearings,175g,Free shipping https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKT8L4j

It's a cardinal sin in my eyes. That weightless wiggle is the whole appeal.

Cores were just a made up thing for the US market. I think you have both the Aldebaran 50s and Metanium that were labeled as Cores at the time. https://www.tackletour.com/reviewshimanocore.html

As a millennial I only remember this from older guides telling me to do along with turning off the spinning reel anti reverse while fishing the Ozarks. Zoomers must be so confused right now. Maybe it'll be a new thing and it can catch on with their generation.

What MH is throwing a 1 3/8 oz plopper 130? My Lightning Rod might but it's a H mod fast pretending to be a MH fast.

Perception outlaw 11.5. Super stable, light and with a very high seating position and low sides that makes casting and pitching a breeze. You will get blown around in the wind sitting up that high but that's not as much of a concern on small bodies of water. It's also cheapish as under $1,000.

I use all those baits and I throw them in the same areas I catch my fish on normal baits. Too many people think you need to tie on a swimbait then turn your back your fish and go cast glides out in the middle of the lake. Stick to where you know the fish are and have been catching them.

If you are going to be under 1/8 oz then pass on the Tatula 70 unless you want to swap in a BFS spool. Otherwise get the Alphas Air or the USDM Alphas Air called the PX70.

For "under 1/8 oz" are we talking about putting a 3 inch peice of plastisol on a 1/20 oz head? Something that actually weighs over 1/8 oz?

No, I'm not old enough

I see you were referencing the Tatula 70 SV and not the USDM Alphas Air (PXBF 70). Yeah, that should work great for traditional BFS (bass fishing). It's not going to cast a crappie jig but it'll cast and skip weightless light plastics like a spinning reel but allow you to use fluoro mainline. I use a 1st gen Alphas SV for this on a ML rod with 10# sniper. It's been my spring clear water dock skipping go to for years.