I added quicksilver premium to my new to me merc 225 DFI Optimax oil tank reservoir.

Then I discover it was the wrong oil and Mercury says to use quicksilver DFI oil.

So I'll be pumping out the rank and adding the correct DFI oil.

That's the drawback to buying used I guess.

Does anyone have any other items I should be aware of relating to DFI engines or how they may differ from merc 150 xr6 ?

Thanks

Chris

The DFI oil has more additives to prevent carbon build up. Running a couple gal of the premium oil won't hurt anything. DOMO online has the best pricing for DFI oil http://www.domo-online.com/mercury/Optimax Locally it sells for close to $50 a gal. The Opti's are sensitive to cold water and it's recommended the engine temp be around 120* before you get on it. I don't have a temp gauge so after I launch, I normally idles around for 10 minutes or so if the water is below 60*. It's also recommended when you come off plane, to idle around a minute or two and allow the motor temp to cool down before shutting down.

Sent you a PM

Now see?

Like Ron White would say, "That's a handy bit of information to have, right there!"

Thank you Slone......very much appreciated!

The DFI oil has more additives to prevent carbon build up. Running a couple gal of the premium oil won't hurt anything. DOMO online has the best pricing for DFI oil http://www.domo-online.com/mercury/Optimax Locally it sells for close to $50 a gal.

 

 

So true.  I started running XD100 since I can buy it from them cheaper then I can get XD50 from around here.

Most of the Optis that blow are because the guy took off before they got warmed up.  I wait till mine gets 118-120° before leaving the launch area.  In cold conditions I start it up and check the temp before leaving a fishing spot if I have been there very long.  Mine if 13 years old and has 700 hours and is going strong.

2 words... smartcraft guage.  the above posters are correct.  warm that baby up. the thermostats are no longer controlling the temp when you blast off,  its the poppet valve.  If its not warm when you blast it off,  it will cold seize in no time.  run 87 octane,  always run merury dfi oil and quikleen... religiously, check compressor belt condition and tightness, good thing to check the compressor strainer in the lower port side of the block.  If you fish shallow and grassy,  the strainer will become clogged at some point and starve the compressor of cooling water,  upgrade all fuel hoses and check the fuel filter in the vst.  other than that,  thats about it.  run it good and hard before you put it up. these motors run pretty cool as it is and if you idle a bunch or loaf around a bunch carbon buildup becomes an issue.  the quikleen and dfi oil will help prevent this.  only run the plugs that are meant for it.

Appreciate the info everyone.

Thanks

Chris

Most of the Optis that blow are because the guy took off before they got warmed up. I wait till mine gets 118-120° before leaving the launch area. In cold conditions I start it up and check the temp before leaving a fishing spot if I have been there very long. Mine if 13 years old and has 700 hours and is going strong.[/quote

Very good advice.

2 words... smartcraft guage. the above posters are correct. warm that baby up. the thermostats are no longer controlling the temp when you blast off, its the poppet valve. If its not warm when you blast it off, it will cold seize in no time. run 87 octane, always run merury dfi oil and quikleen... religiously, check compressor belt condition and tightness, good thing to check the compressor strainer in the lower port side of the block. If you fish shallow and grassy, the strainer will become clogged at some point and starve the compressor of cooling water, upgrade all fuel hoses and check the fuel filter in the vst. other than that, thats about it. run it good and hard before you put it up. these motors run pretty cool as it is and if you idle a bunch or loaf around a bunch carbon buildup becomes an issue. the quikleen and dfi oil will help prevent this. only run the plugs that are meant for it.[/quote

Even more good advice. The only thing I would add is to leave the motor down and run it for a minute before shut down after running.

2 words... smartcraft guage. the above posters are correct. warm that baby up. the thermostats are no longer controlling the temp when you blast off, its the poppet valve. If its not warm when you blast it off, it will cold seize in no time. run 87 octane, always run merury dfi oil and quikleen... religiously, check compressor belt condition and tightness, good thing to check the compressor strainer in the lower port side of the block. If you fish shallow and grassy, the strainer will become clogged at some point and starve the compressor of cooling water, upgrade all fuel hoses and check the fuel filter in the vst. other than that, thats about it. run it good and hard before you put it up. these motors run pretty cool as it is and if you idle a bunch or loaf around a bunch carbon buildup becomes an issue. the quikleen and dfi oil will help prevent this. only run the plugs that are meant for it.[/quote

Even more good advice. The only thing I would add is to leave the motor down and run it for a minute before shut down after running.

 

when you say smartcraft gauge do you mean one of the gauges or a set of gauges?

I currently have speedo, tach, water pressure and trim gauges.

Do I need to add one or replace one to get the temp?

It's an extra gauge that you will have to purchase and install.

http://greatlakesskipper.com/livorsi-sclwtw-smartcraft-white-boat-water-temperature-gauge?gclid=CNvLuZf71cQCFSYV7AodPE4AaA

There's one on the auction site right now for $48.