Please clear things up a little for everyone.

What rod action for which bait?

1. Topwater

2. Crankbaits

3. Spinnerbaits and Inline spinners

4. Plastics / rigs

5. Stick baits.

Does the taper matter?

What do you rod gurus prefer?

When you do switch to a new rod how long does it take you to get use to using it? Have you ever had a new rod you couldn't use or didn't like?

Do you find the new rods designed for a certain bait work better?

I guess just a fishing rod isn't any rod will do anymore. We're in a high tech world now.

I like to use a moderate action or moderate fast action for treble hook baits. Fast action or extra fast action for single hook baits. That keeps it pretty simple. 

Please clear things up a little for everyone.

What rod action for which bait?

1. Topwater; moderate composite*

2. Crankbaits ; moderate Eglass (glass composite).

3. Spinnerbaits and Inline spinners ; moderate composite*.

4. Plastics / rigs ; rigs or jigs? ; fast high modulus composite**.

5. Stick baits. ; top water or jerk bait? ; moderate composite*.

Does the taper matter? Taper and action are the same thing.

What do you rod gurus prefer?

When you do switch to a new rod how long does it take you to get use to using it? Have you ever had a new rod you couldn't use or didn't like?

Do you find the new rods designed for a certain bait work better?

I guess just a fishing rod isn't any rod will do anymore. We're in a high tech world now.

Bill,

* composite meaning standard graphite.

** high modulus composite means state of the art light weight scrimless graphite.

Power of each rod varies with lure weight and hook wire diameter, light wire hooks with 6-8 lb test line less power, heavy wire hooks with stronger line 10 to 25 test line higher power.

Tom

Dwight has given you the easiest explanation, treble hooks you want moderate, single hooks fast.

Thanks for clearing things up.

Now is there a difference between the $80 to $100 to $150 rods quality wise.

I see $400 rods and $750 reels does anyone really use this stuff.

Thanks for clearing things up.

Now is there a difference between the $80 to $100 to $150 rods quality wise.

I see $400 rods and $750 reels does anyone really use this stuff.

 

In the lower price ranges, there's usually a pretty big difference quality wise in rods and reels.

 

However, once you reach around 200$-300$ there's a point of "diminishing return" (creds to DVT), where the difference really isn't too noticeable.

 

So I would say no point in buying 400$ rods and 750$ reels unless you're an enthusiast or tournament fisher

There's a huge difference from $70 rods and reels to $200 rods and reels.  Once you get above that the differences are less dramatic.

I use reg-fast for practically everything. For normal sized (3/8-5/8) cranks, etc. I just use a glass composite med/mod rod. Messed around with extra fast some, didn't like it. It was good with straight fluoro, but for me braid is where it's at.

I like to use a moderate action or moderate fast action for treble hook baits. Fast action or extra fast action for single hook baits. That keeps it pretty simple.

Pretty much sums that up!

Mike

To me it´s simple: fast for everything, if I´m going to fish cranks I just reduce the drag.

Then you have the fact that their is no industry standard for rating a rods power, or action. It can differ company to company. I remember using a $40 spinning combo from Walmart as a kid, and throwing every bait in my box with it.

One rod, one action throwing a gazillion baits that's how I was at first. But the bait boxes once came with a line test recommendations for the best action for there bait. I started using two rod setups 8lb test 6' rod and a 6lb test 5'6" rod spinning. But I found that 8lb test wasn't good for topwater. The 5'6" rod with 6lb test was good with smaller lighter baits. Then a plastics setup was totally different 14lb / 17lb test. Going with jigs a setup up again. Then small and larger spinnerbaits, inline spinners.

I have the line test down I just want a better action rod suited to my baits.

Then it's what rod material for certain actions.

This is why I get confused there is no industry standard on actions. Each one is different. This is why I posted this looking for guidance. Refine my search for a better action rod.

You guys are awesome here lots of good info. Thanks

I would never buy the high dollar stuff that's not me. My budget is around $100 right now. But it depends.

I think $100 for a rod or reel seems to be the sweet spot for the best value, highest quality-to-price ratio. I can't believe how much better my ~$100 equipment is than any of the sub-$100 ($60 and under) stuff I've had.

Ill look for the $100 rods on sale or clearances. Now I have an idea what too look for.

Before you make buying decisions look up the article here by Eddie Taylor in the equipment section. It's the best description of power and action and how to apply them.

I think $100 for a rod or reel seems to be the sweet spot for the best value, highest quality-to-price ratio. I can't believe how much better my ~$100 equipment is than any of the sub-$100 ($60 and under) stuff I've had.

I agree with this it's hard to believe but there is a big difference between an $80 reel and $100 reel imo. And most $100 reels can be bought all day for $80(speed spool).

I'm a big believer in technique specific rods for my use and it comes from using 1 rod for everything and then trying something and realizing how much better a certain bait works on a certain rod.

I forgot to mention, to avoid confusion or surprises, most of my rods are the same brand ( GLoomis ) I'm used to how the different power ratings feel and react, reason why I'm reluctant to purchase rods from another company.

1. Topwater with trebles same as my crankbait rod. Buzzbaits are same as spinnerbait rod. Frogs 6'6" heavy graphite fast

2. Crankbaits- squarebills (only cranks I really throw) 6'6" mh composite rod

3. Spinnerbaits and Inline spinners- 6'6" mh graphite moderate fast

4. Plastics / rigs- 7' mh graphite fast

5. Stick baits. Don't use them