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win300mag1

Braid to Fluoro???

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Hey guys, so latley I have been thinking about putting braid with a fluorocarbon leader onto most of my poles utilizing the fg knot for my knot from braid to Fluoro. I won't do this for my cranking rods, buzz bait and such but for anything I drag around it seems like a good idea.

I know it will be pretty pricey up front because quality braid isn't cheap but not having to change my line so often and the added hook set power and sensitivity seem like a dead ringer. Any negatives that you guys know of when you set up this way? 

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1 minute ago, win300mag1 said:

Any negatives that you guys know of when you set up this way? 

Absolutely none.:)

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You want to ask yourself what problem are you solving by using a leader.  For me, it can be as simple as fishing snaggy cover, and wanting to be able to break off without disturbing the spot.  I'll use a leader that has a breaking point of around 12#.  It could also be that I want some abrasion resistance, so I'll use actual fluoro leader material, which is very tough.  Sometimes, I don't need a leader at all, like when fishing jigs in weeds.  It's a great solution, buy if it's not broke, don't fix it just because everyone says to do it.  BTW, I don't care what knot you use, practice tying it, and check it for strength.  I can't tie an FG knot that holds, so I stick to my time tested Alberto.  For very light lines, I'll even use a triple surgeon's knot.

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The triple surgeon knot was the first knot I learned to attach braid to Fluoro. The FG is a new knot for me. I haven't had one let go yet but I suppose we will see. I don't always fish a leader. Like you said, when the water is really dingy or I'm fishing heavy cover I just use straight braid. I've always loved braid, I grew up fishing it upstate NY in clear lakes without much of an issue honestly. I was too ignorant to know any better honestly. I suppose I could put on straight braid and let the situation dictate the leader. Thanks!

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4 minutes ago, win300mag1 said:

I grew up fishing it upstate NY in clear lakes

We must not fish the same lakes, everything up here is a slop fest! :P

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In my opinion, If your're fishing in waters that you need to protect the braid from abraisons...wood, rock etc, then useing a floro leader makes sense. If not it doesn't. 

 

Mike 

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Makes sense. How about the visibility of say 15 lbs braid? Do you guys think that is blown out of proportion? FYI, I live in NC and I fish south eastern lakes so ultra clear water isn't something I generally deal with.

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12 minutes ago, win300mag1 said:

Makes sense. How about the visibility of say 15 lbs braid? Do you guys think that is blown out of proportion? FYI, I live in NC and I fish south eastern lakes so ultra clear water isn't something I generally deal with.

I don't use a leader even with 50 lb braid and I catch bass on that. I will occasionally take a Sharpie and mark the last few feet of line. I usually resist putting an unnecessary knot in the line.

I'm in the Piedmont region of SC so the clarity isn't a big deal here either. There was a time this summer when it didn't rain for a couple weeks and bass were getting very finicky where I used a scaled-down Carolina rig with a 4" Zoom Finesse Worm and I used 12# mono for the leader. I didn't do it for the visibility. It's just easier to rig. But it paid off with more bites and some big ones to boot. But my leader was only maybe 15". And I feel certain the fish could see the weight and swivel.

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WAY out of proportion. I fish the same stained water you do in Fla. There are more things to think about and consider than line visibility.

 

Mike 

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On 9/2/2016 at 8:10 AM, win300mag1 said:

Hey guys, so latley I have been thinking about putting braid with a fluorocarbon leader onto most of my poles utilizing the fg knot for my knot from braid to Fluoro. I won't do this for my cranking rods, buzz bait and such but for anything I drag around it seems like a good idea.

I know it will be pretty pricey up front because quality braid isn't cheap but not having to change my line so often and the added hook set power and sensitivity seem like a dead ringer. Any negatives that you guys know of when you set up this way? 

Went that direction this season and so glad I did. Other than the initial setup costs no downsides only positives. I recommend using mono as a backer before you get into your braid. It will further help with the cost.

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I don't think it matters a lot in most conditions but in gin clear water where I can see everything on the bottom in 10' of water,  I have noticed a difference between catches using braid vs mono, fluoro, or copoly. Also I don't like using braid around a lot of rocks and rip rap because even with a leader, the braid is still always rubbing rocks and fraying. Also I fish plastics and jigs a lot by dead sticking and maybe just shaking now and then on semi slack or slack line and I feel more bites with mono or fluoro vs super limp braid. Lots of guys use braid and love it, it just isn't for me and the waters I fish most of the time. I still use it in certain situations though, at night, if targeting stripers and hybrids in current because of the strength and small diameter and spinning tackle gives me longer casts to reach fish from shore, and if I fish a lake with a lot of weeds I like it because it cuts through the weeds. There are lots of reasons to use or not to use braid and it all comes down to what the user prefers. I wouldn't immediately change all my reels until I tried it in one or a few first though

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3 hours ago, J Francho said:

You want to ask yourself what problem are you solving by using a leader.  For me, it can be as simple as fishing snaggy cover, and wanting to be able to break off without disturbing the spot.  I'll use a leader that has a breaking point of around 12#.  It could also be that I want some abrasion resistance, so I'll use actual fluoro leader material, which is very tough.  Sometimes, I don't need a leader at all, like when fishing jigs in weeds.  It's a great solution, buy if it's not broke, don't fix it just because everyone says to do it.  BTW, I don't care what knot you use, practice tying it, and check it for strength.  I can't tie an FG knot that holds, so I stick to my time tested Alberto.  For very light lines, I'll even use a triple surgeon's knot.

^^ THIS ^^ :thumbsup_blue:

The only thing I'd add is to also ask yourself, "What problem are you trying to solve by using braid?" B)

-T9

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I've been using braid to fluoro leaders for a few years now with the FG knot and I can't say a single bad thing about the setup. Haven't had a single knot fail, and the leaders did their job. 

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I fish braid for everything! I always fish a flouro leader of 2'-5', and I use the ALBERTO knot, which is a variation of an albright knot. If I am exclusively fishing surface lures, or in heavy slop, I'll forego the flouro leader. 

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win300mag1 I made that change about 5 years ago after fishing with a professional FLW angler named Craig Powers. My wife and I hired him as a guide for 2 days while vacationing on Center Hill in Tennessee.  Here is how I save money at the same time I fish with the exact main line I want. I usually have a dozen rods on board my boat so here is how it works for me. First i would suggest you get a Berkley Line Winder, it is a $20 tool available at Cabelas and lots of other places. Anyway that is a tool that holds your reel secure and holds your bulk line spool under tension. Get yourself a 330 yard or larger spool of Stren Original Clear Blue mono in 14 pound test. It will cost about $8 or a 1200 yard spool of Bass Pro Excel 14 pound test. It will cost $11.

I prefill 1/2 of the reel with the mono. Make sure you get a nice tight arbor knot tied on with the mono. Now a 150 yard spool of 30 pound Power Pro Spectra braid will cost $15 From Tackle Warehouse.You can use any braid or Fluoro you choose I am just using it as an example, but I use a lot of that line anyway.   Using my method you can fill at least 2 reels with that bulk spool.  This cuts the cost of filling a reel in half. If you buy the braid in a 330 yard spool then it gets a little cheaper, The mono costs less than $3.00 per reel and the braid around $7.50 per reel. It saves even more when spooling with any high end Fluorocarbon line.Use either the FG or Double Uni knot or any of the other good quality knots mentioned here before my posting. Use it to attach the mono to braid and the braid to floro or copoly leader. I like P Line 10 pound CXX moss green  for leader material. It is a copoly line with good abrasion resistance and breaks closer to 20 pounds.  

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That is exactly what I've been doing is a 20lb mono backing filled with 30-50lb braid depending on the rod then a nice long fluoro leader 12-17lb tied with an FG knot and I pull it all the way down to the line guide on the reel. now for my deep cranking rod I'm using straight 12lb fluoro. or my pitching/frog rod I'm using straight 50lb braid.

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14 hours ago, IgotWood said:

I fish braid for everything! I always fish a flouro leader of 2'-5', and I use the ALBERTO knot, which is a variation of an albright knot. If I am exclusively fishing surface lures, or in heavy slop, I'll forego the flouro leader. 

This! Except I use Pete Glusek knot. The PG knot is basically an Alberto knot IMO. If you watch it as you tighten it the wraps come down on top of the other wraps forming a lock which is what the Alberto knot does. Most forms of the Albright knot are good. They go thru the guides well especially 8-12lb Fluro. I use braid for the sensitivity and the less line stretch. The FG knot is smaller and  stronger if it doesn't fail but for me it fails when I tie it on light line so I don't use it. I just can't tie it well quickly so I use a knot that easier to tie and I have confidence in.

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i use the braid to flouro for my spinning set up . i use a 15 ft. leader of 6 lb. Sunline Sniper tied with a double uni to 10 lb. Sunline SX1 , i use the Sniper for the benefit of that it sinks and takes the bow out of my line even though the SX1 is VERY thin it still will cause a bow , i like a long leader for this reason . I stick with the double uni cause if cinched tight , it gets nice and compact which i need to pass thru my micro guides .

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I am a huge fluorocarbon user but the past month I've given braid a chance and I'm starting to like it a lot more than I use to. I've tried braid in the past for everything and I wasn't a huge fan. I tried using 50lb on jigs and Trigs before but I just didn't like it. once I started using 30lb I liked it a lot more. Baits like cranks and bladed jigs I'm not using anything but fluorocarbon but anything else I may use with braid.

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I love braid to a fluoro leader...it's my most often used combo in water with a lot of abrasive structure.

I buy and use fluoro leader material rather than use regular fluorocarbon line...it seems tougher to me...which is what I'm after.  We have a lot of pretty clear water...but that's not really my reason for using it.

My 2nd favorite leader material (and it's not in 2nd place by much) is a good hybrid line - I've been using Lake Forks FH. 

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Go to braid 100% on your SPINNING reels, with a FC leader optional depending on the application.  Reaction/power no leader needed, finesse (at least I) always use a leader.  For a knot use what works for you but don't be afraid to use a power swivel if you get breakage issues.  I used to use a double-uni to attach my braid to fluoro but had breakage issues at the knot more times than I want to deal with, so went to a swivel and have had no issues since (the hook will bend or break before the knot fails).

Don't switch to all braid on your baitcasters.

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Do it man. It's the way to go. no memory and the line lasts forever. i just use powerpro braid 50# at walmart. got braid on all my setups. cranking rod just prefer mono leader than flouro but i don't think it really matters that much. my rod is so bendy that it wont rip the hooks out. 

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I prefer braided line on spinning and copolymer on baitcaster. With copolymer, Yozuri #6 I dont have to worry about leader just tie the hook directly to mainline. This for all type of plastic I normally fish with.

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On 9/2/2016 at 1:35 PM, Team9nine said:

^^ THIS ^^ :thumbsup_blue:

The only thing I'd add is to also ask yourself, "What problem are you trying to solve by using braid?" B)

-T9

I can list a few

the problem fc has with stretch

the cost of replacing fc when it wears out much faster than braid

line management having to keep line conditioner(another expense) handy

lack of knot strength with fc

the less efficiency working lure on the bottom through weeds vegetation

the less sensitivity of running lure on bottom contact baits

these are issues solved with braid

as far as leader - one more knot to fail

 

 

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6 hours ago, QUAKEnSHAKE said:

I can list a few

the problem fc has with stretch

Why is some stretch a bad thing?  It's like saying the problem with my rod is the flex.  There must be flexibility in the system, or the system fails.  The real issue is when you add so much strain on the system that there's deformity in the line. 

the cost of replacing fc when it wears out much faster than braid

I'm on my fourth season with the same 6# Seaguar Invisx, and my third with 6# Tatsu.  This line does not suffer UV degradation like braid, and  nylon or co-polymer mono-filament lines.  I can't say the same for braided lines, though they are usually good for at least a season.

line management having to keep line conditioner(another expense) handy

I consider a line conditioner a must use for all lines, including braid.  The benefit is the "new" finish lasts longer, and the color bleeds less, resulting in less fading.  I also use KVD L&L on my guides.

lack of knot strength with fc

I used to do demonstrations that proved knot strength was linked to the knot tier.  My friend Paul could not get more than 3# of knot strength from 6# Invisx when tying a Palomar.  I was getting a little over 7.  When he switched to knot he felt more confident (a knot called a fishgator knot), he was able to get 6.  It's the knot tier, not the line.

the less efficiency working lure on the bottom through weeds vegetation

This is accurate, though only with contact, or drop baits. The braid will actually slice through the weeds, keeping you in contact with your bait.  However, when using a moving, weedless bait such as a spinner bait or swim bait, braid actually picks up more junk, and deposits on your bait.  Whereas a smooth line allows you to slide your bait through.  I like to leave an inch long tag so the knot sheds and weeds caught.

the less sensitivity of running lure on bottom contact baits

This has been proven to be false over and over.  I do find it curious that when I was teaching fishing, there were students that preferred braid.  They opined that it more sensitive.  They were almost always "tip watchers."  Students that understood the drawbacks of braid on a semi-slack line would watch line, and feel for the ticks.  Neither is wrong, they're just different styles.

these are issues solved with braid

Not all is solved with braid.  Use braid exclusively where I fish, and you'll be losing a lot of baits, and breaking many fish.  I swear, if I could figure out how to make braid cutters out of zebra mussels, I could be a bajillionaire!

as far as leader - one more knot to fail

Back to the knot skills again.  If you can tie one weak knot, then you can probably tie two.  Practice and test your knots.  Figure out why your having an issue.  While this is bass fishing, the rig I use for steelhead, browns, and salmon has five knots. The terminal rig is anywhere from 2# to 8# line.  The fish are rarely under five pounds, most over ten, and the kings can go over 40.  I'll let you do the math there.

See my comments in red.  I think just like there a lot of misconceptions with fluorocarbon, there are just as many with braid.  I would prefer NOT to use braid, though it's on roughly half my casting rigs, and two spinning rigs.  It is definitely a necessary tool for my fishing, but not the salvo many claim it to be.

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