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beardown34

Learning to wacky rig

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I posted a different thread about my experience trying out Wayne P's wacky rigging method. For whatever reason it just didn't work for me -- I'm certain the error is on my end. I would get a ton of bites but never hook the fish.

 

So I tried experimenting (as many of you have) with different ways to achieve the things I wanted to achieve in a wacky rig. 

 

* Bait preservation -- I don't need a worm to last 10 years (like theBig1 from this old post), but I would like it to reliably last 1 fishing trip for me

 

* Minimal to zero hook penetration through the worm itself (again, for bait preservation)

 

* Hook oriented perpendicular to the worm (I know plenty of people stick'em just fine with the hook parallel)

 

* Weedless 

 

* Easy to re-rig a new worm while fishing

 

 

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I found the Revenge Flipping Wacker jig and I love it. The lightest it comes in is 1/16oz, and I'd be eager to find a similar small jig with a fiber weedguard but 1/32 oz. Maybe something like this but with better/more reliable components. In any case, the Revenge jig takes care of my weedless concern, and I've pitched it into lily pads with no problems at all. I don't have any really gnarly timber to test it out on.

 

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Here is creation #1 and completed product

 

Appropriately sized o-ring with a small size 2-3 split ring to create the perpendicular orientation. Something has to be done to prevent the hook from pulling back out through the o-ring, so I just used a hole puncher and punched out a bunch of circular plastic discs from that I then threaded onto the hook. It works well and has great hookup ratio. If your worm tears or a fish steals it, it's quick and easy to thread another worm right through the o-ring.

 

Some things I don't like about this setup:

  - the o-ring needs to be tight enough or the worm will get pulled out

  - problem is, the tighter the o-ring, the sooner the worm begins to tear in the middle

  - getting the plastic circular discs on and off the barbed end of the hook can be a little fussy

 

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Here is creation #2 and completed product and another completed product

 

Find appropriately sized vinyl tubing. I ended up with 5/16" ID for 4" yum dingers, and 1/4" ID for trick worms and havoc money makers. I'm guessing I will need 3/8" ID for 5" yum dingers and swimming dingers as they don't fit with 5/16" ID.

 

I cut about 1/2" length of the vinyl tubing. The thread I linked earlier recommends a 3/4" length but that seems a little long for a 4" worm. I may go a little longer with a 5" worm.

 

I use a drill with 1/8" drill bit and drill two holes about 5mm apart. Then just thread vinyl tubing over your worm of choice, and thread a wacky hook of your choice in and back out of those 2 holes. With the holes 5mm apart, there is minimal (if any) piercing of the plastic with your hook. The 1/8" drill bit makes a hole big enough for the hook point + barb to pass through, but still too small for the hook/barb to easily back out through the hole. I tried pre-rigging the hook through the holes in the vinyl tubing, and then putting the vinyl tubing over a worm, but it was hard to get the vinyl tubing over the worm this way.

 

This looks much less prone to fish pulling the worm on one end and stealing it. It also looks much more resistant to a worm tearing in the middle, and even if it does start to tear, it's quick and easy to detect, allowing you to remove the worm and mend-it up. 

 

Short of breaking off, the vinyl tubing should be easily re-usable and I don't imagine much (if any) breaking down of the tubing. Not within any reasonable amount of time anyways. 

 

The final product looks pretty sweet to me but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. To be determined how well it works, but I'm pretty optimistic about it.

 

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After creating the vinyl tubing version, I found a retail product online that is pretty much this exact idea. I can't remember the name or site. But regardless, it's certainly cheaper and pretty easy to buy the vinyl tubing (10 feet for ~ $3, and you're only cutting 1/2-3/4" at a time) and drill the holes yourself. 

 

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Always enjoy seeing what other guys dream up to catch bass. To me, part of the fun of fishing is just playing around to see if I can find a new way to present my bait. Gotta admit I'm not sure I'd go to all that work, but some rainy day I might just make up a couple of these to see what happens. I'm just getting into jig fishing, so ... what the heck? Can't hurt to try.

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Grumpy -- You're right, I'm sure for some it's not worth the time. Aside from breaking off, each one of these little tubing segments should last a really long time. Also, you could drill the holes perpendicular to the way I did, and use it for a Neko rig (although I just use a zip tie for that since the hook is supposed to be parallel to the worm anyways).

 

It's been fun and rewarding for me to learn what can and can't be done, especially when I can identify and achieve my personal objectives for this presentation. 

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The correct size for O-rings is 3/8 o.d. and 1/4 i.d.   I got a lifetime supply for a penny each.  I started at o-rings.com and after several stops found a supply house in St. Louis   $10 + shipping got me a lifetime supply - at least I'm still breathing and I have many hundreds of the o-rings left.   Jury is still out as to which will run out first.

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zip ties will also work as an o ring substitution or if you need a jig collar or weedguard.

 

They also come in handy if your buddy is catching more than you !!

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I recall a pro giving a talk at the local sportsman classic right after the wacky thing broke onto the scene. He talked about how easily a Senko is destroyed and he mentioned getting McDonald's drink straws because they are larger diameter than most straws, cutting them down and using them as a sleeve for the worm. I tried it and it works. My wife grabbed a lifetime supply of them one time she was in McD's and I still have some. I also took a worm with me to the hardware store and bought some heat shrink tube the right diameter to do the same. It works better and is flexible! It's some tough stuff and if you try, you can get a hook barely in and out of it without filling the gap of the hook with plastic.

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I know o rings and zip ties are cheap. I've used both and they work.

 

My personal problem with o rings is they're either too tight or too loose. If too loose (even a tiny bit) a fish is going to only bite the end of the worm and steal it. I don't know if the vinyl tubing will fix that yet, but I'm more confident because it's 1/2" worth of friction, not just the 1/16" width of an o ring.

 

If too tight (and this is the same concern with zip ties), the amount of constricting pressure on that 1/16" of space will begin to rip the bait.

 

My problems with the heat shrink tubing is it's a little tricky trying to shrink the tubing without melting the worm a little bit, and it's clunky trying to heat shrink one on the fly when fishing from the bank. 

 

These are 5 this morning on the same trick worm. The worm is still in good shape. 

 

I'm not trying to convince anyone that one way is better than another. Just sharing some ideas. 

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I've been using these from Eco Pro with great success in terms of durability and hookups. I've had Senkos last me around 6 fish. 

 

picticast2011ecotungsten014.jpg&key=2c14626b9d4027363d5ef53320059b69cfa49be236c00b99dfff50c0dec2fc15

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Fishballer -- I've seen those but never tried. What's the eventual mechanism of failure on the senko, tearing in the middle? Do you usually end up being able to detect the worm about to rip, allowing you to remove and mend the senko? And when the worm tears, do you ever lose the weight?

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Almost as complicated as the Ned rig.

 

I generally just skewer the thing on the hook.  I'm aware that the expense of catching fish is a torn bait.  I'm good with catching fish, and not worried about complicated rigging.  I suppose I should start Ned rigging those torn senkos.

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For me, at the end of the day it's cutting a 1/2" long strip of vinyl tubing and drilling 2 holes in it. How long each piece of tubing lasts me and can be re-used is to be determined, but I'm anticipating a long time. Worth it for me to at least try it out. As of this morning I now have about 30 minutes of experience with this experiment.

 

It's not as much about saving money on baits. It's more about not having to stop to re-rig a worm when I only have 30-45 minutes to fish usually.

 

4 minutes ago, Choporoz said:

@beardown34, which engineering discipline?  I'm guessing mechanical.

 

Heh, negative. I just nerd-out hard sometimes. I need to find productive ways to channel my OCD.

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Try the shrink wrap.  Seriously.  Cheap.  Easy.  Can prepare in advance, so you don't cut into your fishing time.  And the concern about melting a little bit of the worm is unwarranted.  Buy a few feet of each size (stick 3/8; trick 1/4) off Amazon or locally and cut into 1/4 in. or smaller pieces...and spend more time fishing and less time overthinking...maybe re-allot the overthinking time to analyzing how to nuke up that rig into neko and chicken rig mutants

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23 minutes ago, beardown34 said:

Fishballer -- I've seen those but never tried. What's the eventual mechanism of failure on the senko, tearing in the middle? Do you usually end up being able to detect the worm about to rip, allowing you to remove and mend the senko? And when the worm tears, do you ever lose the weight?

 

Usually they'll tear in half before they get ripped off. I guess if I was frugal I could mend them back together. No, I have yet to lose a weight, but that's not to say that it couldn't happen. 

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Yeah I bought shrink wrap of various diameters from Home Depot. I know they work. I was just losing worms on tail bites -- not sure if the worms were just being stolen from the ends, or if the worm was splitting in the middle. 

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While tinkering with lures s a big part of bass fishing you might want to first search what is already on the market. The Wacky Saddle resolves all the issues with 1 component.

Tom

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Twist-Ties have a few advantages:
> An O-ring has to be rolled over half the worm, a twist-tie is Spot On
> O-rings have a fixed diameter but twist-ties snug to any size worm

> No flame or tool of any kind needed

> Cost a fraction of cent each

 

Roger

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I'm with @J Francho, I just rig thru the worm and that's

it. I've messed with shrink wrap, etc. but I just don't feel

the tradeoff is worth the effort. Strange coming from a 

recent Ned rigging convert, and drop shot with bobber 

stops... We all have quirks and idiosyncrasies, LOL.

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WRB -- I could have sworn I came across some largely negative reviews of the Wacky Saddle, but now that I check out the item description on TW, the reviews aren't that bad. Maybe I'll add it to my next TW order and check it out.

 

RoLo -- Cool idea! I can't say I've ever come across the twist-tie idea. Zip ties yeah but not twist ties. I'll have to go on a pantRy-raid for some of them.

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2 hours ago, fishballer06 said:

I've been using these from Eco Pro with great success in terms of durability and hookups. I've had Senkos last me around 6 fish. 

 

picticast2011ecotungsten014.jpg&key=2c14626b9d4027363d5ef53320059b69cfa49be236c00b99dfff50c0dec2fc15

I tried these last weekend and just ordered some........reviews are mixed, but I think they work great

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I'm struggling with the idea that three holes are better than one in your senko.

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1 hour ago, J Francho said:

I'm struggling with the idea that three holes are better than one in your senko.

I thought the same, and it does prolong the life of the bait.

The other benefit is that the weight makes the BPS'S better resemble the original 

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i use 3/8" black heat shrink tubing from lowe's or home depot for senkos.  i'll run the hook through the bait to make it perpendicular to the bait.  i like to use berkley fusion weedless wacky hooks for this method and it flat out catches fish.  the heat shrink tubing is a must for getting the most out of each worm.

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20 hours ago, J Francho said:

I'm struggling with the idea that three holes are better than one in your senko.

Three hole in but not pull through, I guess? That big disc on the bottom is the one that go againt the worm and should not penetrate the worm.

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