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Cast Control Knob and Potential Reel Damage

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I know this topic has been brought up before and I've read several articles concerning spool tension/brake settings, so I hope you'll bear with me on this post.

I own 4-5 older Curado CU200B and Castaic SF bait cast reels that had dimpling on the copper washer in the Cast Control knob. From the articles I've read this was caused by setting the tension too high and by continuing to do this it could damage the reels. I've since flipped the washers over, but I would like to get away from using the Cast Control knob at all and use my thumb to control backlash at the beginning of the cast.

Would setting the Cast Control knob to the point where the spool does not move side to side and putting all the Centrifugal Brakes on (six in my case) accomplish this? I could then reduce the brakes as I get better at controlling backlash.

 

Thank you for your time....Joe

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Those are a wear item. Over tightening can shorten their life but won’t hurt anything else. When they get dimpled flip them over. Replace as necessary. Rest easy. 

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17 hours ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

Those are a wear item. Over tightening can shorten their life but won’t hurt anything else. When they get dimpled flip them over. Replace as necessary. Rest easy. 

I have flipped them over. Unfortunately, the reels are at least a decade old and parts are no longer available. I just had a couple of them serviced and they are in good shape otherwise. That is why I was thinking of keeping the Cast Control knob loose and practicing controlling backlash at the beginning of the cast with my thumb. I could then experiment with the centrifugal brakes to help with distance and different lure weights.

Would this be a good approach?

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I also have several of the Curado 200 reels. The level wind quit working on one of mine. I started using it for a parts reel. I took some of the copper spacers out of it and added them over the existing spacers in my others to get my tension knob working again. 

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35 minutes ago, 5/0 said:

I have flipped them over. Unfortunately, the reels are at least a decade old and parts are no longer available. I just had a couple of them serviced and they are in good shape otherwise. That is why I was thinking of keeping the Cast Control knob loose and practicing controlling backlash at the beginning of the cast with my thumb. I could then experiment with the centrifugal brakes to help with distance and different lure weights.

Would this be a good approach?

Lots of models use brass spacers. There should be a cross reference if the old part number is no good. 

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1 hour ago, 5/0 said:

I have flipped them over. Unfortunately, the reels are at least a decade old and parts are no longer available. I just had a couple of them serviced and they are in good shape otherwise. That is why I was thinking of keeping the Cast Control knob loose and practicing controlling backlash at the beginning of the cast with my thumb. I could then experiment with the centrifugal brakes to help with distance and different lure weights.

Would this be a good approach?

Not sure why my post got deleted but w/e. The spacers in that reel aren't unique. Part numbers get updated frequently and the spacers in a shimano CC knob are easily replaced and readily available. 

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Thanks for the help. Will look into replacement brass washers.

How about my idea of weaning myself off the CC knob and using the brakes to control backlash?

 

Joe

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Don't know why you would want to not use the CC knob but sure, go for it. If you're concerned about washer replacement cost, to give you an idea, they are 1$ each from Daiwa. Shimanos will be nearly the same. 

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There’s nothing wrong or shameful about using the cast control. You don’t need to be weaned any more than you would from the rear brake on a motorcycle. It’s part of the system. 

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I find that slight dimpling is usually not a problem. I also find that the backing of Navy ribbons, cut to size work well, I'm sure ribbons from other services would work, but probably not as well :)

Congratulations to all our new Chief Selects.

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11 hours ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

There’s nothing wrong or shameful about using the cast control. You don’t need to be weaned any more than you would from the rear brake on a motorcycle. It’s part of the system. 

Well said.  The only thing to be wary about when using the cast control knob is over tightening (as in reefing it down hard) as that can damage spool bearings on some reels.  Other than that, set it to your liking and fish.  I use it often, especially under heavier winds since the added tension will help control backlashes better than centrifugal brakes under those types of conditions.  With properly set spool tension, you may not even need to use your thumb as much as you would solely relying on brakes.  

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13 hours ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

There’s nothing wrong or shameful about using the cast control. You don’t need to be weaned any more than you would from the rear brake on a motorcycle. It’s part of the system. 

The guy who services my muskie reels says to tighten the cast control knob just enough so that the spool doesn't move side-to-side and never touch it again. Any thoughts on that? Maybe it only applies to heavy baits.

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54 minutes ago, portiabrat said:

 

The guy who services my muskie reels says to tighten the cast control knob just enough so that the spool doesn't move side-to-side and never touch it again. Any thoughts on that? Maybe it only applies to heavy baits.

Probably - I fiddle with it every time I change a lure, take a test cast, then adjust the brakes for max-distance/min-backlash chance. Don't forget that thumb either.

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3 hours ago, portiabrat said:

 

The guy who services my muskie reels says to tighten the cast control knob just enough so that the spool doesn't move side-to-side and never touch it again. Any thoughts on that? Maybe it only applies to heavy baits.

It depends on the reel. At a minimum you need to remove any lateral play. Beyond that feel free to experiment. 

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5 hours ago, redmeansdistortion said:

I use it often, especially under heavier winds since the added tension will help control backlashes better than centrifugal brakes under those types of conditions.

In this case do you set the CC to the point where the spool stops spinning at contact with the water or ground?

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23 minutes ago, 5/0 said:

In this case do you set the CC to the point where the spool stops spinning at contact with the water or ground?

I set it to the point the spool stops when the bait hits the ground.  After you get the hang of setting the spool tension, you won't need to let it hit hit anything.  You'll get a feel for how fast the bait should drop.

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No no and no. This is like old bad medical advice. Spool tension is set to just keep the spool from side to side movement. Maybe 1/16 to 1/8 turn more to just for "good measure". I don't like my spool so loose that when the clutch is depressed you almost generate an over-run if not careful. Now used to it all really, and don't need it myself. But when starting out with the correct way to set the CC knob, that little extra 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn helped. Doesn't limit casting distance in any noticeable way.

 

Did I remember to say "No"?

 

Karl

 

(Only 1 exception - an old school Abu that has fixed brake blocks.)

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