Currently I have three rods: one finesse rod (7ft medium/fast spinning rod with 6.0:1 spinning reel), one "utility" rod (7ft 3in medium heavy/fast action casting rod with a 7.3 :1 reel), and one cranking rod.

 

Here are the specifics on the cranking rod:

Rod = Shimano SLX Casting Rod (7ft 2in Medium Heavy Glass/Moderate Action)

Reel = Shimano SLX XT 150 (6.3:1)

Line = Sunline Crank Fluorocarbon 12lb

 

I've just started seriously fishing and have this setup to work with. I use the utility rod for most applications and the spinning for obvious finesse stuff. I'm trying to find other uses for my cranking setup. I thought about using it for topwater, but think the fluoro will be an issue. I thought about tying a mono leader to it, but I'm not sure if that'll work well or if I should abandon the idea.

 

I'm open to any and all feedback and appreciate the help!

I use a couple of my cranking rods sor shaky.  They work great.

why not keep it as a "cranking" setup?  spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, crankbaits, lipless, swimbaits (hard and soft), really any subsurface moving bait

 

use the "utility" setup for bottom baits

I use my graphite cranking rod for flutter spoons. 

   Cranking rods excel at tight line, steady retrieves with (almost) any lure that benefits from that style of fishing.  Don't get pigeonholed; the moderate action rods are actually pretty versatile.         jj

I use mine for most treble hook baits. 
Especially jerks, open water traps etc. 

 

 

 

 

 

Mike

Change out your fluorocarbon with monofilament.

This rig can be used for all treble hook techniques: topwater, jerkbaits and crankbaits.

 

I prefer  #11 Sunline Shooter Defier Armilo.

3 hours ago, jimmyjoe said:

   Cranking rods excel at tight line, steady retrieves with (almost) any lure that benefits from that style of fishing.  Don't get pigeonholed; the moderate action rods are actually pretty versatile.         jj

I've gotten to where I prefer Mod/Fast or Moderate rods for most things not sensitivity oriented.

2 hours ago, NOC 1 said:

I've gotten to where I prefer Mod/Fast or Moderate rods for most things not sensitivity oriented.

I can fish virtually any moving bait on a mod. fast rod. Now granted it would be a different power on each of them.

 

I don't always prefer it, but it generally works.

Anyway back to the original question, you can throw basically anything with a treble hook that fails within the weight range, typically a crankbaits, jerkbaits, poppers, spooks, etc

I don't know that specific rod, but I have a Daiwa Tatula 7'2" glass crankbait rod. I've been using it for chatterbaits and really like it. This rod is some sort of glass/composite mix so it has enough sensitivity to feel the vibration of the bait and weeds. I use it because I like to use braid line and the moderate action of the rod allows for that. The fish I get in the chatterbait usually have the bait choked down. 

I bought a Dobyns Fury FR705CB and paired it with a Daiwa Tatula 100H for jerkbaits, squarebills and other crankbaits. On a whim, I tied on a 3/0 EWG and used a Fat IKA and a Neko Macho as a weightless Texas rig. It did a fine job. Easy to cast those baits and it set the hook well. 
 

Whodathunkit?

13 hours ago, roadwarrior said:

Change out your fluorocarbon with monofilament.

This rig can be used for all treble hook techniques: topwater, jerkbaits and crankbaits.

 

I prefer  #11 Sunline Shooter Defier Armilo.

Does mono work well for cranking or do you add a fluoro leader? From what I've read, the visibility and floatability of mono doesn't bode well for medium to deep diving crankbaits.

No leader required.

21 hours ago, roadwarrior said:

Change out your fluorocarbon with monofilament.

 

My thoughts as well.  

8 hours ago, rvillarreal0410 said:

Does mono work well for cranking or do you add a fluoro leader? From what I've read, the visibility and floatability of mono doesn't bode well for medium to deep diving crankbaits.

 

I've always figured that line diameter has way more influence on crankbait diving depth than the  mono vs. fluoro thing.    

 

If you want max depth from your crankbaits using monofilament, spool up with 8lb. or 10lb. rather than 12lb. and/or look for the brand or type of mono that has the smallest diameter for the pound test you want.

 

Bass don't seem to be line-shy.  Line visibility is probably the last thing on my list of concerns when choosing line.  (Except maybe when fishing for smallmouths in a crystal clear lake.)

9 hours ago, rvillarreal0410 said:

Does mono work well for cranking or do you add a fluoro leader? From what I've read, the visibility and floatability of mono doesn't bode well for medium to deep diving crankbaits.

Mono works just fine for cranking and at times can be more beneficial. Line visibility shouldn’t be a concern with faster moving baits as the fish focus on the lure. The slight bow in the line from mono’s floating characterisi

tic does reduce sensitivity, but the average angler can’t feel a change when a bass is following a crank, so sensitivity in cranking is overrated.Us old guys fished cranks using mono for years and caught plenty of fish. 

I would think mono for a moderate fast, but for a moderate glass rod? I’d use any line that got you the depth you want. Dt10 and up I’d go fluoro. 
 

I wouldn’t think you need to slow the reaction time with mono if it’s a glass rod?

I use my crankbait rods for topwater as well.

thank you all for the help! I will be changing out the fluoro with some mono to increase my versatility.