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Hardbait ballast


Bdnoble84

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You probably should but depending on the size of the lip and material, it may be negligible. 
 

in the cranks I’ve made, the lips were already attached and they were through body wire framed vs screw eyes. Hooks and split rings were not attached. 
 

How are you calculating this, btw?  
 

I used a sophisticated testing tank (its lid)  like the one below, minus the packaging of course and filled with water It allowed me to observe the bait from any angle. 
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I will call you later and explain how to calculate ballast. Archimedes Principle for the non math genius. 

 

Allen 

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5 hours ago, islandbass said:

You probably should but depending on the size of the lip and material, it may be negligible. 
 

in the cranks I’ve made, the lips were already attached and they were through body wire framed vs screw eyes. Hooks and split rings were not attached. 
 

How are you calculating this, btw?  
 

I used a sophisticated testing tank (its lid)  like the one below, minus the packaging of course and filled with water It allowed me to observe the bait from any angle. 
spacer.png

I use the engineered anglers formula he put on youtube. It seems realativy ballpark whick is good enough for me.today i was working with alittle 55mmthrough wire pine jerkbait and only put a gram of weight in it. I didnt actually do a ballast calc thinking i was putting relatively little weight jn it. Needless to say. Once the hooks are on it sinks like a rock. Also though, i sealed the wire slot with superglue and baking soda. I think the extra weight from that on suck a small bait is what has it out of wack. That and the lip is way to thick. Which is what inspired me to ask about factoring in lip weight.

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3 hours ago, Bdnoble84 said:

I use the engineered anglers formula he put on youtube. It seems realativy ballpark whick is good enough for me.today i was working with alittle 55mmthrough wire pine jerkbait and only put a gram of weight in it. I didnt actually do a ballast calc thinking i was putting relatively little weight jn it. Needless to say. Once the hooks are on it sinks like a rock. Also though, i sealed the wire slot with superglue and baking soda. I think the extra weight from that on suck a small bait is what has it out of wack. That and the lip is way to thick. Which is what inspired me to ask about factoring in lip weight.

Thanks. I’ll have to look at that. The reason why I asked is because I did mine by trial and error. I developed a sense by the second one I made and that is good, but I would have preferred having a formula. Mine were made out of balsa. Balsa is so darn buoyant too, lol. 
 

As for the lip, I just used lexan that you can get at Home Depot. It is not bomb proof but it did the job and it the lip broke I could easily replace it. 
 

Im looking forward to seeing you post when you finally catch fish on your crankbaits. There is no feeling like, it.
 

Crankbaits, unlike other baits that you actually shape yourself, add the ballast, paint, seal add the hardware, etc., putting in your blood, sweat and tears, gives you the sweetest euphoric, double-fist pump action (both mental and physical) possible that is better that any man made drug. ?

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How to apply Archimedes principle of buoyancy for a non-math genious.

 

You need a postal scale, cup of water that is the temperature of the water you want the bait to suspend in. Place the cup of water on the scale and zero it. Grab the bait buy the rear hook hanger with pliers and submerge it completely.  This would be the weight needed to make the bait neutrally buoyant at the current water temperature.  Weigh the components, add the weight of clear,etc. and subtract from the scale weight. You can adjust the ballast weight from there depending on what you want the bait to do. 

 

I did not come up with this method it was taught to me by Vodkaman over on TU and is the best luremaking tip I have ever received. The guy is some sort of engineer and I have to give him credit. 

 

Allen 

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