Clear Coat Q from a non-builder

[carrageenan]

Is there an affordable alternative to 5 min epoxy?

 

I re-painted an old popper and tried epoxy as a cheap clear coat, but I just can't get it right. It lays down pretty thick, and after mixing there is not enough work time to get a smooth/even finish. After thinning it on a heated work surface, and applying direct heat, I just could not get the proper temp. Hard as Nails made the paint run, and it's so thin I suspect it won't be durable enough. I'll probably just use it to avoid spending money, but I'm wondering if there is a $10 option that would provide a smoother, less opaque finish.

[Chris Catignani]

Dont use the 5 minute epoxy...other variations have a longer working times.

Also...when you mix resin and hardener...it creates an exothermic reaction.

You can slow this down by spreading the mix on a wider surface...like aluminum foil. 

And most certainly dont add any extra heat.

To cover a lure...I would just mix like 1cc of each.

[flyfisher]

fly tyers have been using nail polish in the color you want to seal flies for years.  A bunch of coats and you can then cover it in clear if you want and it will be good to go.  I also use SolarEz bone dry for thin coverage and they make a flex version that is also clear as well.

[carrageenan]

46 minutes ago, Chris Catignani said:

Dont use the 5 minute epoxy...other variations have a longer working times.

Also...when you mix resin and hardener...it creates an exothermic reaction.

You can slow this down by spreading the mix on a wider surface...like aluminum foil. 

And most certainly dont add any extra heat.

To cover a lure...I would just mix like 1cc of each.

Thanks for the input! I know epoxy/metal weld and other chemicals create heat, but I read somewhere if you heat the two parts separately (carefully) you could get a thinner application. I was playing around with it once I got it on the popper, and a few quick shots with the heat gun seemed to give the best results, but there were a few low or bare spots. Thanks again, I'll play around with it some more.

[carrageenan]

50 minutes ago, flyfisher said:

fly tyers have been using nail polish in the color you want to seal flies for years.  A bunch of coats and you can then cover it in clear if you want and it will be good to go.  I also use SolarEz bone dry for thin coverage and they make a flex version that is also clear as well.

I used sharpie markers with an air compressor since I don't have an air brush, when I applied sally hansen hard as nails the colors bled. I guess I could always try another type of marker or nail polish. Thanks for the help!

[Deleted account]

You need some less viscous epoxy with a longer cure time. We make (if they beg) a drying wheel from bicycle parts for a couple of guys who make lures.

[Chris Catignani]

2 hours ago, carrageenan said:

... but I read somewhere if you heat the two parts separately (carefully) you could get a thinner application.

That is somewhat correct....but I think your also making it set up faster too.

There are other times when you want to heat it.

In rod wrapping you can heat it AFTER you have applied it to the threads....this will help release some air bubbles coming from the tread.

Then...sometimes when the resin and hardener are stored for a long time...the resin will begin to solidify. You can heat it up a bit and it will go back liquid.

But I have never heated it before application.

[carrageenan]

2 hours ago, Chris Catignani said:

That is somewhat correct....but I think your also making it set up faster too.

There are other times when you want to heat it.

In rod wrapping you can heat it AFTER you have applied it to the threads....this will help release some air bubbles coming from the tread.

Then...sometimes when the resin and hardener are stored for a long time...the resin will begin to solidify. You can heat it up a bit and it will go back liquid.

But I have never heated it before application.

Thanks a lot Chris, much appreciated. 

2 hours ago, Deleted account said:

You need some less viscous epoxy with a longer cure time. We make (if they beg) a drying wheel from bicycle parts for a couple of guys who make lures.

A drying wheel I have, but I'll need to find a better epoxy. Hopefully something I can get local. Thanks for the help!

[newriverfisherman1953]

Devcon 2 ton epoxy, 30 minute.

[looking45]

Use Devcon 30 minute epoxy and add 4-5 drops of denatured alcohol from an eye dropper. Mix for a full minute. You don’t need a drying wheel

[SmugOne]

10 hours ago, looking45 said:

Use Devcon 30 minute epoxy and add 4-5 drops of denatured alcohol from an eye dropper. Mix for a full minute. You don’t need a drying wheel

I use and do the same exact thing ⬆️

[Bdnoble84]

20 hours ago, flyfisher said:

fly tyers have been using nail polish in the color you want to seal flies for years.  A bunch of coats and you can then cover it in clear if you want and it will be good to go.  I also use SolarEz bone dry for thin coverage and they make a flex version that is also clear as well.

While this is an option in a pinch, i have tryed Sally Hansons on hardbaits, jigheads and spinnerblades and wasnt impressed. Works great on thread though.

 

The cheapest option would be polyurethane but You dont get the eye popping finish of others. it is durable though and super easy to use. Dip and hang and you are good to go after it cures.

Kbs is reasonable. But there are care considerations so it doesnt gel and ive had unpredictable dry times. Ive been playing with UV Resin but im still working out some of the kinks on that.

 

Bob smith 30 min apoxy isnt bad for me but I dont enjoy working with it. Definitely durable and looks good though if you get the coating right.

 

i bought some no name autoclear to try. Ill be experimenting with that next week while im on staycation.