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Any Pelican Bass Raider Owners Out There?

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   Hello again folks. Well I'm back at work wishin' I was fishin'. I work 2 week hitches so I'm at work for 2 weeks and home for 2 as well. I did a little fishing while I was home. Not nearly as much as I would have liked to but mother nature didn't want to cooperate. I'm not a hard core fish in any weather kinda guy. I stopped tournament fishing a long time ago. I've already covered the mods I did to the floor adding padding and carpet, added a Scotty mount for the transducer, As well as adding a big foot switch. The last thing I did the day before I had to come back to work was add a 7" extension to my seat. I'm between 6'2" and 6'4 depending on what convenience store I'm walking out of and I weigh around 270. I'm not sure I like that much added height. I fished it for several hours, to me it feels like I've taken away some of the stability of the craft. I think moving the center of gravity that high could be a bad idea. At least for a guy my size. You younger skinnier guys can get away with it no problem. For me it wasn't a scary situation but stability wise it's not far from standing. Yes, the boat is stable enough to stand and fish and I do. However, It just feels a bit on the unstable side. It's night and day difference form the stock seating height. It does make it much easier to turn around in the boat as well as fish off the side with my feet on the rail. But to me thats not a good trade off. I'm wanting to feel stable and still turn around easily.  I'm thinking about cutting 2 inches out of it next time I'm home. I figure 2 inches would drop the center of gravity down a bit and still allow me to turn around. For me cutting and welding the pedestal is easy, I have the tools. I'll keep you posted on how it effects the stability.

      I'm also kicking around the idea of a Troll King foot control for my trolling motor. It's way cheaper than a cable steer trolling motor and can be used on any hand control motor. I'm going to upgrade to a 55lb sooner or later and have been keeping my eye on craigslist and Facebook market place. I'll find one at a good price.  I'm used to a foot control motor and believe the troll king would be a great upgrade. Looks well made and they have replacement parts available. Anybody using one? Your review would be appreciate. 

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Having major frustrations "controlling" the boat while trying to use both hands to fish. 

 

I actually have a 10ft Pond Prowler II (essentially the same deal as the Bass Raider 10E). Figured I'd post here to try to draw as many eyes as possible. 

 

Currently have a Minn Kota 45lb Endura Max at the transom. It's terrific for getting me around to areas. But I can't do anything with this motor in terms of making adjustments to the boat while standing and slowly working a jerkbait (or any slow presentation that matter). The motor handle sits too far down, so I'm constantly sitting back down to make adjustments... total mess. 

 

I'm exploring all options including:

1) Engineering some kind of deck to add a traditional bowmount foot-controlled trolling motor

2) Minn Kota Traxxis 55lb for bow (possibly paired with this Bigfoot Switch everyone raves about in this thread)

3) Adding just a Bigfoot Switch

4) This "Troll King" contraption, though I can't find any reviews. Looks like a possibility but I don't see anyone else talking about it

5) "Motorguide Bulldog Peak Thrust Foot Control Trolling Motor, 54-Pound". Seems a little pricey and lists as a transom mount rather than a bow mount.

 

The ideal scenario is 100% foot control of boat while standing. If that can't happen, thoughts on second best scenario? 

 

If I go option 2, I'm thinking I would leave the Endura Max 45 on the transom and add a Bullnose Rudder to it. The Traxxis looks pretty good in theory, would seem to offer some boat control while standing. Can anyone speak to their experience with the Minn Kota Traxxis on these boats? 

 

Additionally, what shaft lengths are you guys running on your trolling motor? Amazon has the Traxxis 55 available in 36" and 42". The 42" is actually cheaper than the 36" (both have the Digital Maximizer). I'm thinking the longer shaft might allow me to keep the motor head in a higher position, offering even better access to the tilting handle while standing. Are there any substantial "cons" to the 42" shaft I should consider if I go this route? 

 

Any feedback appreciated. 

Just now, TotalNoob said:

Having major frustrations "controlling" the boat while trying to use both hands to fish. 

I personally recommend you move the motor you have now to the front. Just lull the screw holding the head to the shaft turn and replace the screw. I have a 32lb thrust motor that works pretty good up front. Believe it or not you motor will pull the boat better than it pushes it. I've also added a big foot switch. While fishing I leave my setting on 1 or two and make micro adjustments with the foot switch. If you feel the boat moving you've given it to much input. These little boats take a lot of practice to maneuver. Wind and current as well as what lure your fishing all play a huge factor in boat control or the lack of it. A deep diving crank bait will pull these things around. I normally sit down to fish by positioning my self aft of center line with the group 29 battery in the back as well. This sinks the stern a bit giving the boat more bite. This keeps me from having to add a rudder. I also have an extension on my TM handle that lets me reach it from the seat. I used 2 shop vac tubes for the extension handle they fit the handle snug enough to switch power settings. If I have to turn farther than I can reach I sling it out then I use an eyelet on my rod to pull it back. I know some guys don't like to sit and fish. In my bass boat I stand all day. In my Pelican I sit I can do everything sitting I can do standing, to include flipping and pitching. Skipping lures under dock took a shotload of frustration and practice to figure out again. Try adding a riser to your seat. I added a 7" that is pretty close to standing height. I didn't care for the amount of instability it added but I do like the added height. I'm planning to cut 2 inches out of it and weld it back together. I think that will lower the center of gravity back down to a more comfortable level.

   As far as the troll king if need be I'll be the first to review it. Because I plan on that being the next addition to my Pelican 10E. I've got some pictures of my set up minus the 7" seat riser I added that right before I left for work I only got a couple hours to try it out. 

I have the foot controlled transom-mount Bulldog (40 lb model) in my boat. Zero hand control, all foot. After awhile it becomes second nature and no pause in cast or retrieve. Its 10 years old and doing great.

17 hours ago, TotalNoob said:

Additionally, what shaft lengths are you guys running on your trolling motor? Amazon has the Traxxis 55 available in 36" and 42". The 42" is actually cheaper than the 36" (both have the Digital Maximizer). I'm thinking the longer shaft might allow me to keep the motor head in a higher position, offering even better access to the tilting handle while standing. Are there any substantial "cons" to the 42" shaft I should consider if I go this route? 

Noob, I'm running a 36" shaft motor. Keep in mind running the motor up front it has to be low enough so it doesn't hit the hull. If you look at my set up you'll see the control head is still fairly high. The handle on my motor tilts, so I raise it up a click or two when I'm standing. When seated I level it and I can still side arm cast over the top of it. I think another 6" taller it might be a problem. Now it's always possible to lower it deeper in the water but that also has its draw backs. For me being 6'2" the 36" with the tilt handle is the way to go. Standing or seated it's within easy reach and out of the way. Hope that answers your question.

On 2/11/2019 at 1:31 PM, TotalNoob said:

4) This "Troll King" contraption, though I can't find any reviews. Looks like a possibility but I don't see anyone else talking about it

Total Noob. Here is a youtube vid that I recently found on the troll king. He stands while using it also.

I guess the reason my text was large and bold, is that I copied the title of the youtube vid and pasted here. That must have locked me in that font. Anyway...?

16 hours ago, Murphy S. Law said:

Total Noob. Here is a youtube vid that I recently found on the troll king. He stands while using it also.

I guess the reason my text was large and bold, is that I copied the title of the youtube vid and pasted here. That must have locked me in that font. Anyway...?

That Troll King looks pretty sweet. I don't think I would screw it directly to the floor of my boat like the installation video shows, but otherwise I kinda like it.

Okay so after another trip out on my reservoir I've determined I'm going with two trolling motors and two batteries. 

 

This will ensure I'll never be without propulsion should something unforeseen occur.

 

I currently have an Endura Max 45 (on the transom). This is attached to a minn kota trolling center.

 

What 2nd trolling motor would you get and how would you pair it with the current motor (second one in the front,  etc)? What lb thrust is appropriate for a second motor given the situation?

 

Does anyone like the Traxxis motor? My research makes me think it might not be as "powerful" as the Endura Max but I'm willing to make that trade for better control at the bow/having hands free as much as possible for casting.

 

I intend to have both batteries in the rear and both hooked up to minn kota trolling centers. 

 

This may be a stupid question but, if it rains or water splashes in, is there any issue with the exposed terminals on the trolling centers? I know the plastic wing nuts cover most of the terminals but where the trolling motor leads attach would be potentially exposed to water. Sorry if this is a silly question but I just want to make sure I set things up correctly.

 

Additionally, for those who use the Big Foot switch, how does the switch handle water on the deck? I have ordered a Big Foot switch, it's coming next week.

 

These are just some of the questions that have popped into my head after going out on this thing a few times. I'm glad I'm getting this all figured out now before fishing turns on. 

 

Oh I also picked up a 7" riser for the seat and also swapped for a Butt Seat. Hoping this gives me a little more height and control over casting and presenting to the fish. 

 

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On 1/22/2018 at 6:11 PM, LonnieP said:

Not a Bass Raider but here is my Pond Prowler

9367AEDF-554C-4FEA-9543-EC2E86ACC10F.jpeg

F4C807DC-AA6A-45E1-AD50-A69C32A0D1C9.jpeg

@LonnieP Is this still your setup (from last January?)

 

You mentioned potentially adding horizontal support, was wondering if you felt the need to do that after some use?

 

Additionally, given the location of the seat on the deck (at the one end), what is keeping the 3/4" plywood from essentially "flipping" when you're seated?

 

I'm looking at all kinds of potential options for my Pond Prowler II.

 

Oh also, very curious as to how the Big Foot switch handles moisture (rain, water splash, etc). 

20 hours ago, TotalNoob said:

@LonnieP Is this still your setup (from last January?)

 

You mentioned potentially adding horizontal support, was wondering if you felt the need to do that after some use?

 

Additionally, given the location of the seat on the deck (at the one end), what is keeping the 3/4" plywood from essentially "flipping" when you're seated?

 

I'm looking at all kinds of potential options for my Pond Prowler II.

 

Oh also, very curious as to how the Big Foot switch handles moisture (rain, water splash, etc). 

I’ve made a few changes since those pictures were taken. New fish finder and I added 2 more feet of decking because I didn’t have much standing room where the seat was mounted. Haven’t added any support yet, but probably will soon. I’ve had 2 Bigfoot switches go bad in 3 years, not sure if getting wet caused the failures. Here are some newer pics of it. 

14798032-0A30-4DF2-BCA9-E4373D4F7CED.jpeg

596391C4-7CC4-4584-901A-5021162DD6A8.jpeg

I’ve finally switched my mindset from getting a jon boat to getting a pelican bass raider 10E.. my question is do y’all think I should buy new or used? I have been checking Craigslist but have only seen one on there. Maybe it’s not a good time for be looking for them?

11 hours ago, Brandonsheffield22 said:

I’ve finally switched my mindset from getting a jon boat to getting a pelican bass raider 10E.. my question is do y’all think I should buy new or used? I have been checking Craigslist but have only seen one on there. Maybe it’s not a good time for be looking for them?

I would recommend you buy a used one if you can find one. I finally found a used one for $300. After several years of watching craigslist, I found my on Facebook market place. Mine is a 2010 thats lived most it's life in the Florida sun. It still looks new. With the exception of a few scratches from use. It was completely unmodified and had been registered and titled. The title is the big thing if your buying a used one. They can be a pain to register if it's never been done. If your in a hurry you might want to buy a new one. I looked at a couple new ones. I didn't care for the Sun Dolphin to Me it did not seem as well made as the Pond Prowler 2. I never got a chance to look at a new Pelican Bass Raider. Only one I saw was the one I bought. It's got several things that I don't care for. The 2 biggest are easy to fix. The lack of a drain in the floor is ridiculous, and the Ribbed floor is horrible. Both are very easy to modify. This thread if chocked full of some very elaborate mods.   

Just figured I’d post a pic of mine in its current state.  It gets unloaded/loaded in the truck bed. The only things I take inside the truck are the trolling motor, battery and rods. I may put on a new rod securing system and leave them on for the drive, but it’s a quick load and unload when there’s a dock to use. I just pull it up or let it down while standing in the bed. The transducer arm snaps in and out of the mount there. Use the boat nearly every weekend, love it

 

 

1FBAC42B-1C98-43B4-904E-DF9E209B000B.jpeg

1AE1B03F-D56D-44B2-AF85-965FF744879A.jpeg

There is a Pelican Bass Raider 10e in my area for $500 that has four seats and is only 2 years old. Is this a good deal?

9 minutes ago, Brandonsheffield22 said:

There is a Pelican Bass Raider 10e in my area for $500 that has four seats and is only 2 years old. Is this a good deal?

I wouldn’t say so. They’re about $600 brand new

ok thanks for the help.. Will I have to buy seats after the purchase of the boat or will they come with the boat? I am a newbie:)

They come with 2 seats

Did the 7 inch pedestal add on make the boat unstable ??

What do y’all think about the pond prowler from bass pro?? Any different from the bass raider and why?

  • 2 weeks later...

After going through the pros & cons for months, I finally decided to add a deck to the front of my Pond Prowler.  I had extra 3/4 Marine grade plywood & carpet left from when I made the original sub-floor a few years back.  At the front of the deck, I added 3 lids; one allows access to all of the wiring, the middle has a few items I use every trip and the 3rd stores emergency items like spare electrical parts & TM prop.

 

I added a mount for a stand up butt seat and got a new Garmin depthfinder.  I already had the Bigfoot and on-board charger, I just designed the deck around them.  I took it out for a quick spin today and liked the stability.  The higher center of gravity does change the balance points, but it is still steadier than a canoe.

 

The first picture is how the entire boat looks now.  The second is a closeup of the deck, while the third is a look back to how the front used to look for comparison.  It was a fun project.

New Deck.jpg

New deck closeup.jpg

Jan 2017 front (1280x720).jpg

5 hours ago, OCdockskipper said:

After going through the pros & cons for months, I finally decided to add a deck to the front of my Pond Prowler.  I had extra 3/4 Marine grade plywood & carpet left from when I made the original sub-floor a few years back.  At the front of the deck, I added 3 lids; one allows access to all of the wiring, the middle has a few items I use every trip and the 3rd stores emergency items like spare electrical parts & TM prop.

 

I added a mount for a stand up butt seat and got a new Garmin depthfinder.  I already had the Bigfoot and on-board charger, I just designed the deck around them.  I took it out for a quick spin today and liked the stability.  The higher center of gravity does change the balance points, but it is still steadier than a canoe.

 

The first picture is how the entire boat looks now.  The second is a closeup of the deck, while the third is a look back to how the front used to look for comparison.  It was a fun project.

New Deck.jpg

New deck closeup.jpg

Jan 2017 front (1280x720).jpg

Very nice — how is the added weight? I sometimes struggle lugging around the one I have with no modifications.

Well done! Looks factory.

2 hours ago, Chowderhead said:

Very nice — how is the added weight? I sometimes struggle lugging around the one I have with no modifications.

It does make it heavier, but I am in the fortunate position that the boat stays in the water all the time, covered.  The few times I have pulled it out for yearly maintenance or to take it to another lake, I strip it down to next to nothing.  Because I made everything modular (for example, the bottom is 3 pieces - the deck, the mid floor & the battery cover), it is just like putting a puzzle that you know back together.

 

If I were taking it in & out of the lake regularly and in areas that had access to ramps, I'd probably invest in a trailer.  If I was taking it to hard to get to places with no trailer launching, I probably would keep it stripped down to limit the weight.

Jan 2007 cover (720x1280).jpg

Jan 2007 no mods (720x1280).jpg

7 hours ago, OCdockskipper said:

It does make it heavier, but I am in the fortunate position that the boat stays in the water all the time, covered.  The few times I have pulled it out for yearly maintenance or to take it to another lake, I strip it down to next to nothing.  Because I made everything modular (for example, the bottom is 3 pieces - the deck, the mid floor & the battery cover), it is just like putting a puzzle that you know back together.

 

If I were taking it in & out of the lake regularly and in areas that had access to ramps, I'd probably invest in a trailer.  If I was taking it to hard to get to places with no trailer launching, I probably would keep it stripped down to limit the weight.

Jan 2007 cover (720x1280).jpg

Jan 2007 no mods (720x1280).jpg

Thanks for the explanation - very nice setup you have there. 

On 2/28/2019 at 11:23 PM, OCdockskipper said:

After going through the pros & cons for months, I finally decided to add a deck to the front of my Pond Prowler.  I had extra 3/4 Marine grade plywood & carpet left from when I made the original sub-floor a few years back.  At the front of the deck, I added 3 lids; one allows access to all of the wiring, the middle has a few items I use every trip and the 3rd stores emergency items like spare electrical parts & TM prop.

 

I added a mount for a stand up butt seat and got a new Garmin depthfinder.  I already had the Bigfoot and on-board charger, I just designed the deck around them.  I took it out for a quick spin today and liked the stability.  The higher center of gravity does change the balance points, but it is still steadier than a canoe.

 

The first picture is how the entire boat looks now.  The second is a closeup of the deck, while the third is a look back to how the front used to look for comparison.  It was a fun project.

New Deck.jpg

New deck closeup.jpg

Jan 2017 front (1280x720).jpg

 

That's a terrific looking setup! ?

 

What is the height on the butt seat pedestal? Was this something you already had or something you recently purchased for the deck project? 

 

I'm seriously contemplating doing some kind of seat in the front of my PP2. The ability to simply "swivel around" 360° without having to lift my legs over the seat bracket every time would be nothing short of amazing. Walmart sells some pedestal mount hardware, I think I'd be looking to mount it to a couple pieces of stacked 3/4" plywood at the front of the boat (no deck) ... but I'm not 100% on this yet. Definitely need the ability to move about from the bow to the stern as needed without the seat brackets always being in the way. 

 

Looking at your PP1 I feel like it's setup better than the PP2. The big thing I'm noticing now is that the PP1 has the metal or tin brackets over the plastic on both the transom and bow mount areas for the trolling motor. On my PP2 only the transom has the metal bracket - the bow is just naked plastic for some reason. This really makes zero sense to me as the intended design of these boats is to bow-mount the trolling motor. 

 

The other obvious difference is that the PP2 has more raises areas on the sides where I lay my rods down. The flatter design on the PP1 would definitely be preferable. 

 

Edit: Also was curious, you mentioned one of the compartments on your deck stores emergency items like spare electrical parts. What spare electrical parts are you keeping on hand in there out on the water?

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