New to Kayak fishing...bonafide pwr129 vs old town autopilot 120

[clemsondds]

Hey, could use some advice. I got a storage unit to put some of my boat gear...and wouldn't you know it...it's long enough to keep a kayak in lol...so thought I would pick one up.  I've been thinking about it for awhile to fish some of the small city lakes near me that are too small for my boat.  So looking at picking up a good motorized kayak.  Have any of you tried these two out?  Sounds like old town 120 has been out a little longer and comes pretty much plug and play when it comes to motor and kayak.  The bonafide sounds like it might be a little more stable, but need to figure out a motor situation.  I definitely want spot lock.  Thanks for. your help and advice. 

[casts_by_fly]

I have the autopilot 120 and have fished it for over 3 years now.  I've not looked at the Bonafide much, but from the hull shape I'm going to say its comparably stable compared to the AP, maybe a little less so given how pointy the front end is.  It looks about the same bottom width as the AP.  The AP is an incredibly stable boat and you can do all of the things in it that I see on the bonafide website.  I stand to fish the whole time.

 

If you go bonafide, the XI3 is the only real option.  It was designed around it.  With the xi3 on the nose, the bonafide is going to be a little more front heavy on the water.  I suspect they moved the seat back a little to compensate for that.  The storage in the front center is nice and I wouldn't mind having that on the AP.

 

I would say that if you're going all in, then the bonafide might be the better choice.  By all in, I mean XI3, fishfinders, the works.  Its predrilled for all of your holes and mounts.  Bonafide has made all of their own hardware and brackets for everything.  So if you are going with their package 100% then it does look pretty slick.  The storage in the front and under the seat are nice.

 

On the AP, you also have full integration with the motor right out of the box.  Just hook up a battery and go.  There are two thru hull locations near the front rails for cords (each holds 3 cords).  Before I put live imaging in that was plenty.  The AP is designed around humminbird electronics so there are a couple small niggles if you use others.  Also, any specific mounting brackets will come from a third party.  There are lots of good third parties who do old town things so don't let that hold you up.  

[clemsondds]

2 hours ago, casts_by_fly said:

I have the autopilot 120 and have fished it for over 3 years now.  I've not looked at the Bonafide much, but from the hull shape I'm going to say its comparably stable compared to the AP, maybe a little less so given how pointy the front end is.  It looks about the same bottom width as the AP.  The AP is an incredibly stable boat and you can do all of the things in it that I see on the bonafide website.  I stand to fish the whole time.

 

If you go bonafide, the XI3 is the only real option.  It was designed around it.  With the xi3 on the nose, the bonafide is going to be a little more front heavy on the water.  I suspect they moved the seat back a little to compensate for that.  The storage in the front center is nice and I wouldn't mind having that on the AP.

 

I would say that if you're going all in, then the bonafide might be the better choice.  By all in, I mean XI3, fishfinders, the works.  Its predrilled for all of your holes and mounts.  Bonafide has made all of their own hardware and brackets for everything.  So if you are going with their package 100% then it does look pretty slick.  The storage in the front and under the seat are nice.

 

On the AP, you also have full integration with the motor right out of the box.  Just hook up a battery and go.  There are two thru hull locations near the front rails for cords (each holds 3 cords).  Before I put live imaging in that was plenty.  The AP is designed around humminbird electronics so there are a couple small niggles if you use others.  Also, any specific mounting brackets will come from a third party.  There are lots of good third parties who do old town things so don't let that hold you up.  

Thank you!  I don't really plan to go "all-in" since I have a boat that I mainly fish in.  I'll pick up a kayak, motor, probably some sort of box that has rod olders, and then probably some sort of 10-12" graph. That will probably be it...so not really looking for a tournament rig.  My biggest concern is how easy is it to transport.  I'll be loading this in the truck and then back in the storage unit...so I want something pretty easy to setup and transport.  Do you, or anyone, know if the XI3 is heavier than the one that's on the old town auto?   How do you get yours in the water? Is there a wheel/cart that works better with one or the other?  Sorry for all the questions.  Finally, if you had to start over, would you still go with OT or would you switch to the bonafide? Thanks

[casts_by_fly]

4 hours ago, clemsondds said:

Thank you!  I don't really plan to go "all-in" since I have a boat that I mainly fish in.  I'll pick up a kayak, motor, probably some sort of box that has rod olders, and then probably some sort of 10-12" graph. That will probably be it...so not really looking for a tournament rig.  My biggest concern is how easy is it to transport.  I'll be loading this in the truck and then back in the storage unit...so I want something pretty easy to setup and transport.  Do you, or anyone, know if the XI3 is heavier than the one that's on the old town auto?   How do you get yours in the water? Is there a wheel/cart that works better with one or the other?  Sorry for all the questions.  Finally, if you had to start over, would you still go with OT or would you switch to the bonafide? Thanks

 

my motor is 25 lb. A quick latch and pull the plug to get it loose. It has a handle to throw it in the back seat of the truck. It’s super simple and compact. Some guys have issues with the plugs but I’ve not had one in 3 years. 
 

 Most of my lakes have ramps so I back down the ramp and stop 5’ short of the water. My kayak is in the truck bed so I slide it out, drop the nose on the ground, and lift the back end off the tailgate/extender. After you do it a dozen times you get the distance right to just pivot on the nose as you lift the back end in or out. 
 

bunk style carts are the only way to go with the catamaran style hull. Everyone who has tried different ones has moved to a bunk cart like the wilderness systems or similar. I have a cheaper cart of that style and it works fine but I just don’t need it much. Maybe two lakes.  So I don’t carry it in the truck.  
 

I’ve not done research on the Bonafide or adding a motor to a hobbie or other. That said, if I could go back I would get a 136 over the 120. The extra 18” gets you more space for only 4#. And it seems to run a little faster (0.1-0.2 mph). My reservation at the time was truck bed vs bed extender. I already have the extender to make it easier for the 120. So it’s a no brained to get the 136 over 120. 
 

I’ve kicked around a trailer. Since most of my lakes have ramps a trailer means not lifting it on or off. I’d probably also leave my tackle bag in the boat, the net holder in place, and maybe more that I load from the truck now. Maybe. That said, I can back down the ramp and have the kayak into the water and onto a dock or pulled aside in 2 minutes. Then if there is no one there (most of my time) I’ll take my time to load rods, motor, humminbird, and tackle bag. That’s two trips from the truck to the boat, which if the trucks still on the ramp means I can have the boat loaded in 5-7 minutes. 
 

10” is a lot of graph in a kayak. I have a 9 and came from a 7. When you get to that size you need to have thought out mounting and position a lot. If you have a boat already, I’d suggest just getting a set of mounts and transducer for what you have now. Then swap a head unit back and forth until you decide what you want on the kayak. 

[clemsondds]

20 hours ago, casts_by_fly said:

 

my motor is 25 lb. A quick latch and pull the plug to get it loose. It has a handle to throw it in the back seat of the truck. It’s super simple and compact. Some guys have issues with the plugs but I’ve not had one in 3 years. 
 

 Most of my lakes have ramps so I back down the ramp and stop 5’ short of the water. My kayak is in the truck bed so I slide it out, drop the nose on the ground, and lift the back end off the tailgate/extender. After you do it a dozen times you get the distance right to just pivot on the nose as you lift the back end in or out. 
 

bunk style carts are the only way to go with the catamaran style hull. Everyone who has tried different ones has moved to a bunk cart like the wilderness systems or similar. I have a cheaper cart of that style and it works fine but I just don’t need it much. Maybe two lakes.  So I don’t carry it in the truck.  
 

I’ve not done research on the Bonafide or adding a motor to a hobbie or other. That said, if I could go back I would get a 136 over the 120. The extra 18” gets you more space for only 4#. And it seems to run a little faster (0.1-0.2 mph). My reservation at the time was truck bed vs bed extender. I already have the extender to make it easier for the 120. So it’s a no brained to get the 136 over 120. 
 

I’ve kicked around a trailer. Since most of my lakes have ramps a trailer means not lifting it on or off. I’d probably also leave my tackle bag in the boat, the net holder in place, and maybe more that I load from the truck now. Maybe. That said, I can back down the ramp and have the kayak into the water and onto a dock or pulled aside in 2 minutes. Then if there is no one there (most of my time) I’ll take my time to load rods, motor, humminbird, and tackle bag. That’s two trips from the truck to the boat, which if the trucks still on the ramp means I can have the boat loaded in 5-7 minutes. 
 

10” is a lot of graph in a kayak. I have a 9 and came from a 7. When you get to that size you need to have thought out mounting and position a lot. If you have a boat already, I’d suggest just getting a set of mounts and transducer for what you have now. Then swap a head unit back and forth until you decide what you want on the kayak. 

Ok great thanks! My only loose graph on my boat is a 16” lol…I should put that on the kayak…

[Koz]

@casts_by_fly covered a lot of the Autopilot info. I will tell you this - it’s a big, heavy beast even when unloaded.

 

At my house I launch it unloaded (except for my electronics) over my seawall and when the water is down it’s a 2+ foot drop. Then from my dock I install the batteries (two 100Ah Lifepos), crate, rods, and motor. When I get back I pull it up to me dock, unload it, then haul it back over the seawall.

 

But at the ramp I can have it fully loaded and just back the trailer into the water.

 

I have a love / hate relationship with my Autopilot when it comes to the cockpit layout. It’s nice to have cup holders, dry storage, tackle storage, and tool storage all within easy reach.

 

However, that means rail mounting the head unit puts it up near the motor and interferes with my fishing because I sit and fish. That’s why I built a DIY console for my 9” Garmin.

 

But that layout also puts the pole for my FFS a bit too far away for my short arms. Since I just got my FFS the other week I have not come up with a solution for that yet.

 

That being said, I love my Autopilot. It’s very stable out on big lakes and it makes a great fishing platform.

[clemsondds]

Thank you! Anyone have a bonafide with a xi3?  Just curious how it does and how transport is.   The bonafide is quite a bit. lighter...seems like that's one of the biggest benefits; while the OT's biggest benefit in my mind, is just the ease of getting in to motorized kayaking with just one simple purchase. 

[FishTank]

I have XI3 on my Hobie PA 14 and really like it so far. Be prepared though, if you want the GPS version with Anchor Mode (SpotLock), it was around $2000 when it was all said and done.

 

$1349 Trolling motor 

$250 LiPo 10A Battery 

$80 Motor Guide Quick Release Bracket 

$150 One Objective Mounting Plate

$175 Wiring Kit, Battery Box, Registration and Misc Hardware

 

 

 

[clemsondds]

On 3/15/2024 at 12:05 PM, casts_by_fly said:

I have the autopilot 120 and have fished it for over 3 years now.  I've not looked at the Bonafide much, but from the hull shape I'm going to say its comparably stable compared to the AP, maybe a little less so given how pointy the front end is.  It looks about the same bottom width as the AP.  The AP is an incredibly stable boat and you can do all of the things in it that I see on the bonafide website.  I stand to fish the whole time.

 

If you go bonafide, the XI3 is the only real option.  It was designed around it.  With the xi3 on the nose, the bonafide is going to be a little more front heavy on the water.  I suspect they moved the seat back a little to compensate for that.  The storage in the front center is nice and I wouldn't mind having that on the AP.

 

I would say that if you're going all in, then the bonafide might be the better choice.  By all in, I mean XI3, fishfinders, the works.  Its predrilled for all of your holes and mounts.  Bonafide has made all of their own hardware and brackets for everything.  So if you are going with their package 100% then it does look pretty slick.  The storage in the front and under the seat are nice.

 

On the AP, you also have full integration with the motor right out of the box.  Just hook up a battery and go.  There are two thru hull locations near the front rails for cords (each holds 3 cords).  Before I put live imaging in that was plenty.  The AP is designed around humminbird electronics so there are a couple small niggles if you use others.  Also, any specific mounting brackets will come from a third party.  There are lots of good third parties who do old town things so don't let that hold you up.  

 

On 3/16/2024 at 9:41 PM, Koz said:

@casts_by_fly covered a lot of the Autopilot info. I will tell you this - it’s a big, heavy beast even when unloaded.

 

At my house I launch it unloaded (except for my electronics) over my seawall and when the water is down it’s a 2+ foot drop. Then from my dock I install the batteries (two 100Ah Lifepos), crate, rods, and motor. When I get back I pull it up to me dock, unload it, then haul it back over the seawall.

 

But at the ramp I can have it fully loaded and just back the trailer into the water.

 

I have a love / hate relationship with my Autopilot when it comes to the cockpit layout. It’s nice to have cup holders, dry storage, tackle storage, and tool storage all within easy reach.

 

However, that means rail mounting the head unit puts it up near the motor and interferes with my fishing because I sit and fish. That’s why I built a DIY console for my 9” Garmin.

 

But that layout also puts the pole for my FFS a bit too far away for my short arms. Since I just got my FFS the other week I have not come up with a solution for that yet.

 

That being said, I love my Autopilot. It’s very stable out on big lakes and it makes a great fishing platform.

Thank you guys!  I’m leaning toward the AP.  I think having the motor out reach will present more issues. Are you happy with the 120 or do you wish you had gone with the 136?  I’ll be transporting it in the bed of my truck, so the 136 may not even be an option.  Thanks again! 

56 minutes ago, FishTank said:

I have XI3 on my Hobie PA 14 and really like it so far. Be prepared though, if you want the GPS version with Anchor Mode (SpotLock), it was around $2000 when it was all said and done.

 

$1349 Trolling motor 

$250 LiPo 10A Battery 

$80 Motor Guide Quick Release Bracket 

$150 One Objective Mounting Plate

$175 Wiring Kit, Battery Box, Registration and Misc Hardware

 

 

 

Thank you for your response and sending that video! I hadn’t seen that. Near the end, where he was talking about spot lock, and the cable getting wrapped around it, reminded me of my previous boat had that same issue…

makes me nervous having the motor out of reach. Have you had any issues with this? My troller motor on spot lock was notorious for spinning around 360 degrees multiple times trying to figure out its location.  I could see that pull cord getting wrapped around.   It’s got me thinking of going with the ot 120. 

 

[FishTank]

1 hour ago, clemsondds said:

Thank you for your response and sending that video! I hadn’t seen that. Near the end, where he was talking about spot lock, and the cable getting wrapped around it, reminded me of my previous boat had that same issue…

makes me nervous having the motor out of reach. Have you had any issues with this? My troller motor on spot lock was notorious for spinning around 360 degrees multiple times trying to figure out its location.  I could see that pull cord getting wrapped around.   It’s got me thinking of going with the ot 120. 

 

It has wrapped once and it wasn't bad but I did figure something out.  If you hit the Anchor button on the remote while moving, the spot lock does not account for this and tries to return to the exact position that you hit button.  This can cause the head to turn all over the place. It helps to be still or close to it and have the head pointed forward. You also have to consider that your rudder needs to be straight. 

 

I do like the straight line routing it has. You just point the head straight, hit the button,  and no matter the wind, it goes straight ahead at a set speed. I have also recorded a route to troll with. You hit the record button, then store it, and on your next trip you get close to your starting point,  hit one of the stored route buttons, and the trolling motor repeats the exact route you recorded automatically. Pretty cool. 

[casts_by_fly]

@clemsondds

 

to do it again, I’d get a 136. It’s 4# heavier which is nothing but 18” more space. It’s 12” in the cockpit and 6” rear well. I have a 5’7” bed but if you’re bed loading you’ll want an extender to lift it into anyway to make getting it in easier. A 136 would need the extender for support where the 120 doesnt.  Supposedly it goes a little faster (0.2-0.3 mph) also since it sits higher in the water. 

[clemsondds]

1 hour ago, FishTank said:

 

It has wrapped once and it wasn't bad but I did figure something out.  If you hit the Anchor button on the remote while moving, the spot lock does not account for this and tries to return to the exact position that you hit button.  This can cause the head to turn all over the place. It helps to be still or close to it and have the head pointed forward. You also have to consider that your rudder needs to be straight. 

 

I do like the straight line routing it has. You just point the head straight, hit the button,  and no matter the wind, it goes straight ahead at a set speed. I have also recorded a route to troll with. You hit the record button, then store it, and on your next trip you get close to your starting point,  hit one of the stored route buttons, and the trolling motor repeats the exact route you recorded automatically. Pretty cool. 

Ok thanks! Do you know what the differences/features are between the minnkota and the xi3?  Do they both do spot lock and straight line routing?  I'm pretty familiar with typical minnkota trolling motors; that's what I had on my last boat.  Now I have garmin, but so far...wishing I could go back to minnkota.    And that setup you have is a little $$   Looks like the kayak is $4700 and then a $2k motor, graph...  I saw Old town new hybrid setup called the epdl that's pedal drive, motor, or both.  I think it's around $6500.  Also, have you ever tried the titan x line?  Thanks again for all your help! 

On 3/16/2024 at 9:41 PM, Koz said:

@casts_by_fly covered a lot of the Autopilot info. I will tell you this - it’s a big, heavy beast even when unloaded.

 

At my house I launch it unloaded (except for my electronics) over my seawall and when the water is down it’s a 2+ foot drop. Then from my dock I install the batteries (two 100Ah Lifepos), crate, rods, and motor. When I get back I pull it up to me dock, unload it, then haul it back over the seawall.

 

But at the ramp I can have it fully loaded and just back the trailer into the water.

 

I have a love / hate relationship with my Autopilot when it comes to the cockpit layout. It’s nice to have cup holders, dry storage, tackle storage, and tool storage all within easy reach.

 

However, that means rail mounting the head unit puts it up near the motor and interferes with my fishing because I sit and fish. That’s why I built a DIY console for my 9” Garmin.

 

But that layout also puts the pole for my FFS a bit too far away for my short arms. Since I just got my FFS the other week I have not come up with a solution for that yet.

 

That being said, I love my Autopilot. It’s very stable out on big lakes and it makes a great fishing platform.

Would you go with the autopilot again if you did it over?  Did you look in to any others?  Ever feel like it's not quite fast enough?  I wish I could try these out but no one within 100 miles has these.  So I am just trying to do the best research I can, and then make the plunge  

I don't think I'm going to do ffs on my kayak...I already have a love/hate with it on my boat.  While it's great to find fish...it's just not as enjoyable for me.  I'm going to use the kayak to mainly fish small bodies of water and will fish mainly shallow.   Do you have the 12 or the 13'6"? 

I have a 9' bed in my truck with the tailgate layed down...would that be ok for the 13'6 or should I stick with the 12?  I'm not going to do an extender. Thanks again everyone

[FishTank]

2 hours ago, clemsondds said:

Ok thanks! Do you know what the differences/features are between the minnkota and the xi3?  Do they both do spot lock and straight line routing?  I'm pretty familiar with typical minnkota trolling motors; that's what I had on my last boat.  Now I have garmin, but so far...wishing I could go back to minnkota.    And that setup you have is a little $$   Looks like the kayak is $4700 and then a $2k motor, graph...  I saw Old town new hybrid setup called the epdl that's pedal drive, motor, or both.  I think it's around $6500.  Also, have you ever tried the titan x line?  Thanks again for all your help! 

 

I am not familiar with the newer Minn Kotas and to be honest, the MotorGuide is still sort of new to me. I have had it out about 4 times since I got it this year.  For my kayak, it came down to the shaft length, the ease of install, and I wasn't sure how to install a Minn Kota on my kayak (there was plenty of info on how to do the MotorGuide).  

 

I looked at the Old Town Auto Pilot and really liked it when I got my Hobie but I liked how the deck and storage was laid out, especially the rod holder system.  Once I got it out on my favorite lake, I knew I was going to need a trolling motor to battle the wind and get from point A to B without wearing myself out. For a while, I regretted not getting the Old Town but now my Hobie is just the way I want it. Also, the Old Town from what I can tell is kind of slow based on which model you get. I think the one I wanted had a top speed of 3.6 mph and my Hobie will do around 5.2 mph with perfect water.  Doesn't sound like a lot but if your lake is 4-5 miles (1,400 acres) long like mine, it makes a big difference in your day. 

[Koz]

6 hours ago, clemsondds said:

 

Would you go with the autopilot again if you did it over?  Did you look in to any others?  Ever feel like it's not quite fast enough?

 

 

I'm fine with the 120, but there are a few reasons for that that are fairly unique to me.

 

The first is that I'm only 5'7", so the deck affords me enough room even with my DIY console.

 

The second is that I purchased my AP 120 when it was on sale for $3,900 and the AP 136 was not on sale at that time. That savings on the kayak price went to a whole lot of other related purchases. First and foremost was a Wilderness Systems kayak cart since the AP did not sit correctly on my C-Tug cart.

 

Costs spiraled from there with Livescope, new head unit, Yak Power wiring setup, and two 100Ah batteries. I don't regret it at all, but part of me wonders if I should just have put a down payment on a Lowe boat instead.

 

As for hauling it, I have a Malone trailer that I had previously purchased for my Seastream Angler pedal drive kayak.

 

Do I wish it was faster? When I'm on big, open water and see bass boats whizzing by, the answer is yes. When I fish from my home and it takes me 40 minutes to get to my spot, yes.  So what it makes me do is really plan where I want to fish. Or I trailer to one area, fish for a while, then trailer to another area. 

 

But then again, I know when I make a 2-4 mile run I won't be tired and sweaty like I was on my pedal kayak.

 

As for the cable wrapping multiple times I have never had that happen. In fact, before gets past 1 1/2 turns my motor spins all the way around the other way to set up again.

 

Below are photos of my DIY console. You can see I still have room to stand and fish.

 

 

[casts_by_fly]

6 hours ago, clemsondds said:

I'm not going to do an extender.

you’re going to want one. Lifting the boat into the bed means standing next to the bed, lifting the boat straight up, and twisting your body to get it onto the tailgate. It’s hard on your back.  An extender means you stand between the tailgate and the extender, lift the back end, and take two steps to the side as you hold the boat up and over the extender. No twisting. It’s much easier on your back and arms. I’m only 43 and fairly fit and it’s an upgrade for $50 delivered from harbor freight. 
 

 

4 hours ago, FishTank said:

I think the one I wanted had a top speed of 3.6 mph and my Hobie will do around 5.2 mph with perfect water.  

a new autopilot will do 4.0, maybe 4.1 mph. After 3 years of use and tackle collection, mine does 3.6-3.7 now. 

[FishTax]

On the extender, not sure I agree. Maybe because of how my wheel system is designed, but I roll mine up to the truck, lift the front and set it on the edge of the bed. Then I go behind it and lift straight up and push it right in. It's over 100 lbs, but you're lifting that either way. Maybe I'm missing something and need to watch a video of how a bed extender would be helpful to me? Is it lower to ground than truck bed? I wouldn't think so. 

[casts_by_fly]

4 hours ago, FishTax said:

On the extender, not sure I agree. Maybe because of how my wheel system is designed, but I roll mine up to the truck, lift the front and set it on the edge of the bed. Then I go behind it and lift straight up and push it right in. It's over 100 lbs, but you're lifting that either way. Maybe I'm missing something and need to watch a video of how a bed extender would be helpful to me? Is it lower to ground than truck bed? I wouldn't think so. 

my extender is about 4” lower to the ground than the bed. I also load stern first. 

[clemsondds]

Ok so still struggling to decide which route to go.  Here are a few thoughts.  

-All the PWR's I see online, most people that have them look like semi-pro fishermen with major buildouts. I'm just looking for a motorized kayak with decent usability.  I'll probably have a HD side/down scan, a 10" graph, and maybe a powerpole anchor. I'm not really wanting a kayak that I need to pay someone to rig out.  So to that point, maybe the auto 120 would be better.

- Since I'll be pulling this in and out of my storage unit and putting it in the truck...I'm a little concerned about weight.  I think the AP is around 175lbs with battery but could be way off.  PWR says their boat, "fully rigged out" is 102lbs. 

-If I want to lift the motor out of the water and just paddle...which of these two is easier/better? 

-Do you guys with either bonafide or AP ever have difficulty reaching behind you to get to the back of the boat (ie tackle box/rods...)?  I noticed that both of the seats don't swivel; whereas the native titan x does.  Seems like that would come in handy. Thoughts? 

-Finally, I'm not looking to spend 8 hours on the lake...is the lack of storage on the AP really a concern?  Looks like the Bonafide or Titan have quite a bit more hatch space.  

Also welcome any other thoughts you might have. 

Thank you all! 

[Koz]

4 hours ago, clemsondds said:

I'm not really wanting a kayak that I need to pay someone to rig out.  So to that point, maybe the auto 120 would be better.

My AP 120 is fully rigged except (DI/SI/FFS) for Power Poles. I'm leaning towards adding two of them to make it easier to fish docks. But I also tournament fish and want to level the playing field. 

 

I didn't pay anyone to rig mine. I watched a video or two videos, read, and asked some questions here on BR and received some great responses. Rigging isn't difficult, it just comes down to personal preferences and fishing style. I tried a few different layouts before I drilled holes anywhere.

 

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Since I'll be pulling this in and out of my storage unit and putting it in the truck...I'm a little concerned about weight.  I think the AP is around 175lbs with battery but could be way off.

 The weight of the AP 120 even mostly unloaded is heavy, especially when you're pushing 60 like me. When I launch from my backyard over my seawall (1-2.5 foot drop depending upon the water level) I do so with the batteries (two 100AH Lifepo) and the motor out. When I get back to my dock I unload my crate, batteries, motor, and rods before hauling it up and over the seawall. 

 

I have a 5-7ft bungee dock leash attached to the stern of the kayak, haul the yak up as far as I can, grab the lip of the stern, then walk it the rest of the way and onto the grass. I then load it on a Wilderness Systems heavy duty cart and pull it up a small hill to one of my sheds. If you don't load it on the CG point it's heavy to pull. If I add Power Poles I doubt I could haul it over that seawall anymore.

 

On land, getting it on my trailer bunks is also a giant pain. I keep my Wilderness cart attached until I slide it on the bunks to make it a little easier. But the bow of the AP is pretty wide and hard to get up there so you can slide it forward to get the bunks into the hull.

 

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Do you guys with either bonafide or AP ever have difficulty reaching behind you to get to the back of the boat (ie tackle box/rods...)? 

 

Finally, I'm not looking to spend 8 hours on the lake...is the lack of storage on the AP really a concern?

 

No, and I'm an old guy. My second battery and battery box is the first thing in my tank well, then I have a Flambeau Tuff Krate Premium just beyond that battery box and a small cooler behind that. I can access all of them without killing myself.

 

I know most people like the BlackPack, but the Tuff Krate (premium) has two compartments. The top compartment is smaller and that's where I keep my scale, gloves, hand warmers, gaiter, some tools, and miscellaneous stuff.

 

One great thing about the AP 120 is that there is a storage area on the left side of the seat that can hold four Plano boxes. That's where I keep my primary baits for the day so I rarely have to get something out of the Tuff Krate.

 

I do spend 6+ hours out there on the lake (because I make a lot of long runs) and I find the comfort of the AP to be decent. But at times I wish I had a head rest and maybe a seat cushion.

 

In my opinion, the AP 120 and 136 are true fishing platforms and they are quite a big investment. If you're going to spend a lot of time kayak fishing that's the way to go. But it starts at $4,500 without batteries or electronics.

 

I've heard nothing but good things about Bonafide as a brand. That lower price point certainly is easier on the wallet when you want to add a cart, electronics, and batteries.

[clemsondds]

13 hours ago, Koz said:

My AP 120 is fully rigged except (DI/SI/FFS) for Power Poles. I'm leaning towards adding two of them to make it easier to fish docks. But I also tournament fish and want to level the playing field. 

 

I didn't pay anyone to rig mine. I watched a video or two videos, read, and asked some questions here on BR and received some great responses. Rigging isn't difficult, it just comes down to personal preferences and fishing style. I tried a few different layouts before I drilled holes anywhere.

 

 The weight of the AP 120 even mostly unloaded is heavy, especially when you're pushing 60 like me. When I launch from my backyard over my seawall (1-2.5 foot drop depending upon the water level) I do so with the batteries (two 100AH Lifepo) and the motor out. When I get back to my dock I unload my crate, batteries, motor, and rods before hauling it up and over the seawall. 

 

I have a 5-7ft bungee dock leash attached to the stern of the kayak, haul the yak up as far as I can, grab the lip of the stern, then walk it the rest of the way and onto the grass. I then load it on a Wilderness Systems heavy duty cart and pull it up a small hill to one of my sheds. If you don't load it on the CG point it's heavy to pull. If I add Power Poles I doubt I could haul it over that seawall anymore.

 

On land, getting it on my trailer bunks is also a giant pain. I keep my Wilderness cart attached until I slide it on the bunks to make it a little easier. But the bow of the AP is pretty wide and hard to get up there so you can slide it forward to get the bunks into the hull.

 

 

No, and I'm an old guy. My second battery and battery box is the first thing in my tank well, then I have a Flambeau Tuff Krate Premium just beyond that battery box and a small cooler behind that. I can access all of them without killing myself.

 

I know most people like the BlackPack, but the Tuff Krate (premium) has two compartments. The top compartment is smaller and that's where I keep my scale, gloves, hand warmers, gaiter, some tools, and miscellaneous stuff.

 

One great thing about the AP 120 is that there is a storage area on the left side of the seat that can hold four Plano boxes. That's where I keep my primary baits for the day so I rarely have to get something out of the Tuff Krate.

 

I do spend 6+ hours out there on the lake (because I make a lot of long runs) and I find the comfort of the AP to be decent. But at times I wish I had a head rest and maybe a seat cushion.

 

In my opinion, the AP 120 and 136 are true fishing platforms and they are quite a big investment. If you're going to spend a lot of time kayak fishing that's the way to go. But it starts at $4,500 without batteries or electronics.

 

I've heard nothing but good things about Bonafide as a brand. That lower price point certainly is easier on the wallet when you want to add a cart, electronics, and batteries.

Thank you for your feedback! Appreciate it! 

[clemsondds]

On 3/19/2024 at 10:32 PM, FishTax said:

On the extender, not sure I agree. Maybe because of how my wheel system is designed, but I roll mine up to the truck, lift the front and set it on the edge of the bed. Then I go behind it and lift straight up and push it right in. It's over 100 lbs, but you're lifting that either way. Maybe I'm missing something and need to watch a video of how a bed extender would be helpful to me? Is it lower to ground than truck bed? I wouldn't think so. 

What kind of kayak do you have? And what wheel system do you use? Thanks 

[FishTax]

@clemsondds old town pdl 106. Home made wheel system by prior owner. I leave wheels on while in back of truck (they hang below tailgate) but take them off and stow in truck once I've got it near the water. Not sure if this photo is helpful but I tried to capture it. I would have done it different a little but I bought it used like this. Pros and cons. 

[clemsondds]

Cool thanks! 

[Zcoker]

The rudder design on the OT kayaks steered me more towards them. It’s massive and completely folds up out of the water… out of the way of everything! I think I would’ve gone through a few rudders by now if I had purchased the Bonified. 

[Jmilburn76]

@Zcoker the rudder is one of then things I dislike about my Native since it’s on the bottom and bolted into place. I do have an aftermarket metal one that has been bulletproof but I have even bent it a little unloading.