2 hours ago, Andrés Milano said:

20-30 meters

Of course, like with anything, lure and line and rod are all important factors that will impact a casts distance and accuracy. 

 

Salamandura spool will throw 16g very well. But it's best feature is how smooth and controlled the cast is. Centrifugal brakes, like on Shimano, will require more of your thumb and will be less forgiving when the wind shifts. 

 

Sv spools tame the line way better, and can handle that range of weights you'll be casting much better as well. 

 

If you're already used to Centrifugal brakes the magnetic brakes in the Daiwa may feel strange, and the same is true if you're used to magnetic brakes and switch to Centrifugal. Except switching to Centrifugal will really force you to become  ore comfortable and skilled with your thumb during the cast. 

 

What braking system do you use now and why do you want a reel with SV?

If the Zillion HD is an option, then this choice is a no brainer. Its the best of the best in this reel size.

For those of you with the patience to read through all of the posts in this thread, Shimano does in fact offer magnetically braked reels in their BFS models and every DC reel Shimano offers is digitally controlled magnetic braking. There's zero centrifugal/friction braking in these models.

Anyone with depth knowledge on the subject knows that Daiwa makes available a multitude of magnetic braking options far more sophisticated and diversified than dumb-simple linear magnetic "Korean" magtrax braking.

16 hours ago, Andrés Milano said:

I honestly don't know what frame it's built on. What I do know is that it uses the hyper structure (HYPERDRIVE DESIGN, HYPERDRIVE DIGIGEAR, HYPER ARMED HOUSING, HYPER TOUGH CLUTCH).

As for the Tatula 100, I really think it's too small to cast 40-gram lures, and it will also have little capacity for PE 2 (0.2mm).

The Curado 150 is even smaller.  It's got a little 12 gram 32mm spool.  The Tatula is a little bigger with a 34mm spool and the Salamandura 150 SV Boost has a deep SV Boost spool.  If you want a little more capacity the Tatula 150 with its 36mm Magforce Z LC spool should be great.  

9 hours ago, FloridaFishinFool said:

 

 

No tienes que comprar carretes nuevos. Puedes comprar carretes usados y ahorrar dinero.

 

Los carretes HG Curado cuestan alrededor de $269 nuevos y tienen frenos centrífugos mejorados en comparación con los imanes que usan otras marcas, pero puedes comprarlos usados en eBay por alrededor de $100 en condiciones como nuevas.

 

Como dije antes, no se trata de cuál es mejor o peor (aunque alguien dijo que su elección era "más barata", lo cual es cierto con razón), sino de qué es lo que mejor se adapta a ti. Y todo girará en torno a la capacidad de lanzamiento de cada carrete.

 

Los imanes nunca se apagan. Por eso, Daiwa tuvo que idear una placa inductora centrífuga para compensar este hecho, ya que los imanes nunca se apagan. Por lo tanto, tuvieron que crear una forma para que el carrete se ajustara al lance y minimizara el efecto de los imanes siempre activos. Esta tecnología existe desde hace décadas y no ha cambiado mucho. Sería fantástico que Daiwa creara diseños magnéticos electrónicos, pero aún no se han atrevido a ofrecer nada realmente nuevo. Si compras un carrete de baitcasting de $20, ¿adivina qué tipo de frenado tiene el 99% de los carretes baratos? Casi siempre tienen los mismos imanes de siempre. Daiwa simplemente cambió su forma e incorporó una placa inductora centrífuga en algunos carretes para dar una ligera apariencia de variación en la densidad del flujo magnético.

 

Sin embargo, Shimano tiene algunos ingenieros increíbles que hicieron avanzar su tecnología mucho más allá de los imanes que Shimano dejó atrás en los basureros de la historia hace más de 30 años y se lanzó de lleno a los frenos centrífugos que no tienen imanes, por lo que la operación de frenado de los frenos centrífugos funciona más en la parte superior del lanzamiento a alta velocidad y reduce el efecto de frenado a medida que el carrete disminuye la velocidad en el lanzamiento, lo que es casi perfecto e ideal y funciona bien con el entrenamiento de la memoria de los músculos del pulgar.

 

Cuando los ingenieros de Shimano crearon los carretes controlados por microprocesador de CC, incorporaron el mismo mecanismo de frenado centrífugo, pero ahora incluyen una aplicación controlada por computadora para lograr un frenado ideal mucho más refinado, algo que simplemente no es posible ni está disponible en esa otra marca. A años luz de distancia.

 

Así que todo se reduce a lo que mejor te funcione. No nos hagas caso. Solo ofrecemos opiniones. Algunas buenas, otras problemáticas. Pero lo que necesitas descubrir es qué tipo de lance te funciona mejor. ¿Buscas los mismos imanes de siempre, sin mejorar, repetidos en casi todos los carretes? ¿O prefieres una ingeniería de frenado centrífugo en constante evolución? Esta es la principal diferencia entre estas dos marcas o carretes: imanes versus centrífugos.

 

Se trata de lo que mejor te funcione. Y espero que no malgastes tu dinero en algo que no te guste. Leer es una cosa, pero la experiencia práctica es mejor.

 

Lea un artículo de Luisiana:

 

https://www.lafishblog.com/sistema-de-frenos-de-aire-daiwa/

 

"...primero debes comprender que hay dos tipos principales de frenos de fundición: centrífugos y magnéticos.

De hecho, he detallado las diferencias entre ambos en este artículo (los pescadores costeros lo utilizan para tomar buenas decisiones de compra) y siempre he descubierto que los frenos centrífugos tienden a tener el mejor rendimiento".

 

¡No me creas solo a mí! Pero estoy de acuerdo. Los frenos centrífugos funcionan mejor porque su funcionamiento físico es un frenado real, tanto desde una perspectiva física como desde una perspectiva lineal a través del lance. Esto significa que el frenado físico de los frenos centrífugos sigue con mayor precisión los cambios de velocidad del carrete. Es más lineal. Los imanes permanentes no pueden hacer esto. Solo pueden intentar seguir los cambios de velocidad del carrete de forma aproximada con menos ajuste o control, ya que no es un mecanismo de frenado físico. Simplemente busca más o menos flujo magnético según la velocidad de rotación y tiende a ser más pesado al final del lance, mientras que los frenos Shimano se desvían más.

 

Daiwa es más o menos teoría en apariencia y menos en práctica, mientras que Shimano es más teoría en práctica, de ahí la cita del artículo "...los frenos centrífugos tienden a tener el mejor rendimiento".

 

Y esto me lleva a otro punto. Con el Curado, puedes desactivar todos los frenos y lograr un carrete de giro libre sin necesidad de nada que lo ralentice, salvo tu pulgar, por supuesto. Pero con los imanes permanentes de Daiwa, esos carretes nunca pueden lograr un carrete de giro libre porque los imanes permanentes están constantemente afectando al carrete. No se pueden desactivar.

 

Shimano solía usar imanes para frenar. Pero cambiaron a frenos centrífugos y nunca han vuelto atrás. Esto significa que Shimano tomó la decisión correcta. Y luego contrató a ingenieros excepcionales para desarrollar la tecnología. Los carretes DC están llevando la tecnología a un nivel completamente nuevo con el que Daiwa solo puede soñar. Uno se pregunta: ¿qué hacen los ingenieros de Daiwa además de cambiar la forma y el color de sus carretes cada año?

 

Por eso considero a Shimano la empresa de carretes número 1 del mundo. Daiwa le sigue, pero KastKing, una startup reciente, ya la ha superado con sus nuevos carretes controlados por computadora. Solo Shimano y KastKing los tienen. ¿Daiwa? Sigue fabricando lo mismo de siempre, con diferentes formas y colores.

 

Así lo veo hoy. Tal como es, en mi opinión.

 

Así que, si te lo puedes permitir, te recomiendo el nivel básico en Curado DC, y seguro que te va a encantar. Al menos, si no eres de DC. Acabo de buscar una reseña de Curado DC y encontré esto:

 

"El Shimano Curado DC es elogiado por su revolucionaria tecnología de control digital I-DC4, que reduce drásticamente los contragolpes, permite lances más largos y precisos con diversos señuelos (desde livianos hasta pesados) y ofrece una gran versatilidad para la pesca de lubina en general".

 

Los carretes HG que no son DC que utilizo exclusivamente tienen estos frenos:

 

 

¡Me encantan! He logrado usar solo un freno de cada cuatro. Lanzan de maravilla y con mucha suavidad, y nunca he tenido problemas con mis carretes en años de uso.

 

Y aquí está el Daiwa, siempre con frenos magnéticos. Sin frenado físico. Todo se hace con flujo magnético y un intento de variación centrífuga de la aplicación de la densidad de flujo. Parece ingenioso, pero sigue sin frenado físico.

 

 

Esto es lo que importa al elegir entre estas dos marcas. Es solo cuestión de preferencia. No es que una sea mejor que la otra, sino quizás las diferencias tecnológicas sí lo sean. A veces, lo más barato no siempre es mejor. Así que malgastar el dinero es, sin duda, cuestión de elección y perspectiva. Para mí, hay un claro ganador. Seguí a Shimano desde los imanes hasta los centrífugos y nunca me he arrepentido. ¡Cada uno con lo suyo!

 

In that case, which Shimano would you choose? If you could go for a DC groupset in terms of quality and price, which one would it be? 

I want to emphasize that your comment was extremely enriching; you truly provided a great deal of information, which is now my main tool for choosing since I can't try them out. 

Here's a beaut for less than $200 to your door.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/326719400328

 

The other reel costs quite a bit more and does not look as good IMO. $304 plus $42 in shipping. The ones in Australia appear to go much higher plus tariffs. And for what?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/357970185009

 

 

You can pick up a DC for $160 that might be a very good option. (If this one was a lefty I'd be considering it)

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/376719972799

 

Forget the reels' function. Just by looks alone I have to side with Shimano. They make some good lookin' reels in side by side comparisons!

 

 

 

8 hours ago, Banned User said:

Por supuesto, como con cualquier cosa, el señuelo, la línea y la caña son factores importantes que afectarán la distancia y la precisión del lanzamiento. 

 

El carrete Salamandura lanza muy bien 16 g. Pero su mejor característica es la suavidad y el control del lance. Los frenos centrífugos, como los de Shimano, requieren más esfuerzo del pulgar y son menos tolerantes con los cambios de viento. 

 

Los carretes Sv controlan mucho mejor la línea y también pueden manejar ese rango de pesos con el que podrás lanzar mucho mejor. 

 

Si ya estás acostumbrado a los frenos centrífugos, los frenos magnéticos del Daiwa pueden resultar extraños, y lo mismo ocurre si ya estás acostumbrado a los frenos magnéticos y cambias a los centrífugos. Sin embargo, cambiar a los centrífugos te obligará a adquirir más comodidad y destreza con el pulgar durante el lance. 

 

¿Qué sistema de frenado utilizas ahora y por qué quieres un carrete con SV?

I use a conventional magnetic braking system (the worst of all without a doubt) I chose the SV for its versatility; I have a very wide range of lures. Besides I read that its performance against the wind or even when changing lure weights is very good and you don't have to constantly adjust to avoid backlashes; it sounds perfect, the only thing that "stops" me It's the possibility that it won't cast far in a wide river, or I also read that they often don't come well greased; on the other hand, they say they start making noise quickly with use, and finally, The fish tend to be a bit more powerful, and I'm afraid of damaging the reel. 

I also had doubts about whether the SV Boost reel could cast the 40-gram lure, but I was told that it could, and that they've even cast up to 52 grams. 

16 hours ago, FloridaFishinFool said:

Threads like this go both ways.

 

I am a Shimano fan all the way. If someone gave me a daiwa I'd sell it and go buy another Curado HG. I do not use Daiwa baitcast reels simply because not my flavor. I do use Daiwa spinning reels though.

 

I'm not going to try and say one is better than another. Its more like what flavor do you like better? I've tried daiwa baitcasters and just not fond of magnets. I much prefer centrifugal brakes. Curado HG is my choice for durable reliable reels.

 

Get one of each and try them and decide for yourself.

 

Another point I would like to make is that on this forum you can find numerous threads on broken daiwa baitcast reels:

 

https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/268581-line-guide-sticking-on-daiwa-reel/#comment-3195337

 

https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/268201-anyone-had-bad-experiences-with-the-release-button-on-daiwa-casting-reels-sticking-or-generally-not-lasting-long-in-between-cleanings/page/2/#comment-3195267

 

Both threads are recent.

 

I have used Shimano Curado HG series reels for years with zero failures. Great reels that keep on working.

 

I have yet to see just one thread about the HG Curados failing on this forum. So I just did a forum search on broke curado and the last thread I could find was dated 2015. So next I did a search for "daiwa part" and a search for "curado part" trying to find forum threads for each reel and see which is failing more.

 

From what I found there are more threads on Daiwa failing than Curado. It could be more people use Daiwa on this forum than curado and simply a numbers game. I can't be sure. All I can do is report the findings of the searches showing more Daiwa failures than Shimano.

 

So my point would be to judge reels based on durability and reliability as well as function and which one suits you and your needs best.

 

My opinion is that Shimano is the best and top dog brand of reels in the world today and Daiwa comes in second as I see it. Others may switch them around. Both are great. But different. Don't take our word for it. Do your own research and you will get responses going both ways. It boils down to what do you want or like or prefer?

My opinion is opposite of yours, but every shoe does not fit everyone.  I have given away, sold, or laid to rest all my Shimano reels except for two Calcuttas and one Sustain, which see very limited use;  Curado was the most disliked.  I'm a Daiwa fan all the way and keep adding more;  any problems I've traced back to operator error.  I do believe that anglers are more efficient by sticking with one brand rather than spending time and $ experimenting with others, regardless of the brand.

7 hours ago, Micro Module Police said:

Si el Zillion HD es una opción, esta es la mejor opción. Es lo mejor de lo mejor en este tamaño de carrete.

I understand, that would be ideal. In fact, I was told that combining that reel with an SV BOOST spool would be perfect... But unfortunately, my budget doesn't allow it right now.

1 hour ago, Bigbox99 said:

El Curado 150 es aún más pequeño. Tiene una bobina de 32 mm y 12 gramos. El Tatula es un poco más grande, con una bobina de 34 mm, y el Salamandura 150 SV Boost tiene una bobina SV Boost profunda. Si buscas un poco más de capacidad, el Tatula 150 con su bobina Magforce Z LC de 36 mm te resultará ideal.  

In that case, I would lose the SV Boost spool and its advantages. Do you think the LC spool with MagZ is up to par?

6 minutes ago, Andrés Milano said:

In that case, which Shimano would you choose? If you could go for a DC groupset in terms of quality and price, which one would it be? 

I want to emphasize that your comment was extremely enriching; you truly provided a great deal of information, which is now my main tool for choosing since I can't try them out. 

 

Sorry Andres but I did not see this comment until after I posted the last one.

 

I am not sure where you are located so I am not sure what you have available in your area.

 

I had the pleasure of being able to talk to the Shimano engineers who designed the DC reels every year just before ICAST and at ICAST.

 

They told me the DC reels sold in USA were designed for how Americans fish. The settings on the USA DC reels were carefully crafted for how we fish.

 

So I am not aware of the differences engineers programmed into DC reels made for other foreign markets like their own JDM.

 

These differences in settings and operation might make a difference to you and I just wanted to point that out since no one else will. All you get there is Daiwa great. Shimano bad. Which is ignored to a large degree.

 

So if you take a look at the DC reels, Shimano has a few of them. At first Shimano put this DC technology only in their most expensive reels, but over the years have been moving it down their line next to midline, and then on down to bottom of their line and now make an SLX DC which has proven to be a popular seller, but for my tastes is not where I would start as entry level.

 

I said in a comment above I would start at the Curado DC as entry level and move up from there.

 

So one thing I would be taking a look at if its possible are what the Shimano engineers have done in the way of tweaking the DC technology for different markets. Maybe the USA DC models have settings that will work for you. I can't say. Maybe the JDM DC reels have settings that would fit you better.

 

You can examine all the USA DC models on their website:

 

https://fish.shimano.com/en-US/product/list.html?pcat1=cg1SHIFNaReel&pcat2=cg2SHIFNaReelBaitcast&pcat3=&pcat4=&fs=&series=&price_min=&price_max=

 

I posted a link above to a Curado DC reel for only $160 used. If it is in good working condition it might be a reasonably priced option for you to leave passive reels behind and enter into the space age of active reels that actually do work for you to help you become a better caster.

 

DC reels are very popular and people generally love using them. DC braking is superior.

for that weight range (over 30 g), you want MagZ (+ Boost or LC) -

- was this thing on?  

Also keep in mind, if you want a spool for lighter-weight distance, you can swap-in SV spool to a MagZ Daiwa.  The inductor and retractor on the spool is the only difference.  

 

You'll find Daiwa easy to set and no need to futz with again.  

No one on BR has ever provided a simple description of why and how to set Shimano centrifugal.  Lots of opinions, though.  

18 minutes ago, Tackleholic said:

My opinion is opposite of yours, but every shoe does not fit everyone.  I have given away, sold, or laid to rest all my Shimano reels except for two Calcuttas and one Sustain, which see very limited use;  Curado was the most disliked.  I'm a Daiwa fan all the way and keep adding more;  any problems I've traced back to operator error.  I do believe that anglers are more efficient by sticking with one brand rather than spending time and $ experimenting with others, regardless of the brand.

 

I know. I totally get it. Been dealing with daiwa fans for decades- and Shimano fans.

 

I have tried and tried to like daiwa baitcast reels over the long decades of fishing and just do not like how daiwa makes reels while I absolutely love how Shimano makes their reels.

 

This is why I try and stay neutral and say its not about who is better or who is worse, but more about what we as humans tend to like or dislike or prefer or not prefer is more or less the truth of it. What flavor does one like best?

 

I think another part of it comes down to reel construction as well. I worked in a professional rod and reel and trolling motor repair shop and had to work on all brands of reels every day for years. And it is from that perspective that I also grew to dislike how daiwa designs and constructs some of their reels, and grew to like more how Shimano designs and constructs their reels.

 

So for me its not just a function opinion, but also an aesthetic opinion, but also a workbench opinion developed over many long years that has absolutely driven me away from daiwa and right straight to Shimano as a preferred choice many times over.

 

So like you, in reverse, I would not buy nor own any daiwa baitcast reels. When they come my way I will try them out and quickly get rid of it.

 

But I do use some Daiwa spinning reels. And I have over a dozen Daiwa rods as well. Love them! But not their baitcast reels.

 

Its kind of funny that I do own one reel that has a copy of the daiwa magnetic braking structure in it made by Doyo for Bass Pro and Rick Clunn signature series reels. It is an awesome flipping and pitching reel like no other. But what is funny about it is that Doyo recognized they needed to add something to the braking situation and so the doubled it up and added in centrifugal braking along with the magnets. And that little addition right there put it over the top to a keeper for me.

 

If you look behind the spool's inductor, you can see two of the centrifugal brake pins visible and on the side plate you can clearly see the added brake drum. There! Now the daiwa braking problem is all fixed up! I don't know why daiwa never considered doing this. Doyo sure did! So thanks!

 

I wonder how this reel would operate if I removed the magnets all together? Something to consider... Shimano engineers sure did!

 

So I totally agree with you about sticking to one brand.

 

19 hours ago, Andrés Milano said:

I honestly don't know what frame it's built on. What I do know is that it uses the hyper structure (HYPERDRIVE DESIGN, HYPERDRIVE DIGIGEAR, HYPER ARMED HOUSING, HYPER TOUGH CLUTCH).

As for the Tatula 100, I really think it's too small to cast 40-gram lures, and it will also have little capacity for PE 2 (0.2mm).

Don't worry too much about HYPER hype.  This is a salt-use '18 Ryoga I bought used for a good-enough price to completely rebuild with new MagSeal bearings and a new Hyperdrive gearset from '21 Basura.  You can see the teeth differences between the aluminum stock gears and Hyperdrive brass gears.  (stock pinion laying on frame)

 

My Zillion SVTW has spent 5 years in the salt, beginning Jan '21.  Last fall on the water, picking up and putting down both Zillion SVTW and brand new SLPW-Z (based on '22 HD), I noticed a difference in gear smoothness.  My 5-salt-year Zillion SVTW is getting a new brass Hyperdrive (HD) gearset this winter.  

 

1 hour ago, bulldog1935 said:

No one on BR has ever provided a simple description of why and how to set Shimano centrifugal.  Lots of opinions, though.  

Think of it like setting up a 6-pin Ambassadeur brake, except you have the added luxury of finer tuning with the brake dial.  Turning the dial moves the brake pipe in and out, adjusting how much contact the brake shoes have with the pipe.  On my Conquest SE 30, I have two of the four shoes engaged and run my end tension at zero, with no lateral play.  It's pretty competent from 5g on up set this way.  Brake dial is set to slightly less than half.  

The difference, my mag + centrifugal Ambassadeurs are set and done - mag at low end, centrifugal at high end - never need futzing.  

 

1 minute ago, bulldog1935 said:

The difference, my mag + centrifugal Ambassadeurs are set and done - mag at low end, centrifugal at high end - never need futzing.  

 

These SVS brakes are similar in that regard.  Set it for your minimum required weight and it's pretty hands off afterwards.  The braking curve is a little less aggressive than a 6 pin Abu since you're in control of the contact surface of the brake shoes in relation to the pipe.  In essence, when the dial is turned you're controlling how much friction is applied.  

1 hour ago, bulldog1935 said:

No te preocupes demasiado por la publicidad exagerada. Este es un Ryoga de 2018 usado que compré usado a un precio razonable como para reconstruirlo por completo con rodamientos MagSeal nuevos y un juego de engranajes Hyperdrive nuevo de Basura de 2021. Puedes apreciar las diferencias de dientes entre los engranajes de aluminio de serie y los de latón del Hyperdrive. (Piñón de serie colocado en el chasis).

 

Mi Zillion SVTW lleva 5 años en la sal, desde enero de 2021. El otoño pasado, mientras recogía y desmontaba tanto el Zillion SVTW como el nuevo SLPW-Z (basado en el HD de 2022), noté una diferencia en la suavidad de los engranajes. Mi Zillion SVTW, con 5 años en la sal, recibirá un nuevo juego de engranajes Hyperdrive (HD) de latón este invierno.  

 

Hello my old friend! I switched from the SV Boost vs MagZ dispute to the Daiwa vs Shimano dispute! 

Excuse my ignorance, but speaking another language only amplifies my limited understanding. Is the HYPERDRIVE made of brass? Do you mean all reels with HYPERDRIVE technology have brass gears? 

To add more options to the game, the Salamandura SV TW has a 34mm spool with SV Boost brakesThe Tatula TW 150 has a 36/24mm LC spool concept, The Shimano 150 M has a 32/23mm MGL III spool, and Shimano cured DC 151 or 201 with a 34/2 spool.

Remember that I will be using lures from 10 to 40 grams to fish for Predator e species up to 5 kilograms or 10 pounds, although one day I might catch something larger than 7 or 10 kilograms God willing, hahaha. The line I use is PE 2 (0.2 mm) or 0.23 mm in some cases, but always PE.

I'm going to agree here with @Micro Module Police - Daiwa 34-mm floating spool is the most versatile platform out there - you can't go wrong with Zillion HD if that works into your budget.  

13 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

Voy a estar de acuerdo aquí con@Micro Módulo Policía - El carrete flotante Daiwa de 34 mm es la plataforma más versátil que existe: no puedes equivocarte con Zillion HD si se ajusta a tu presupuesto.  

We're talking about this reel model (link)?

Or is it someone else?

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMX7fap

This price looks better 

https://www.digitaka.com/items/4/4/2/ZILLION+TW+HD

3 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

Este precio parece mejor 

https://www.digitaka.com/items/4/4/2/ZILLÓN+TW+HD

Interesting! I'll use that price as a reference. My question came to mind when I read "34mm floating spool"—does that refer to a special type of spool? Or is it just a translation error?

Floating spools have less spindle length and mass - these are used in Daiwa Zillion, Steez, and Ryoga.  @Andrés Milano The pinion is fixed by two bearings and has its own separate spindle.  

 

vs Tatula long-spindle spool.  

 

Andres, one thing you may want to consider is...

 

Do you see those spools in the photo above? Two of those do not hold much line at all.

 

Spools like that have to be carefully considered with the type of fishing you do.

 

For light fishing they may be fine, but if you are catching some bigger fish who take long runs, you may want to consider if you can get spooled using those.

 

I do a lot of red fishing here in Florida and no way I could get away with spools like that around here. A big red could take every inch of line off of those- and take the reel with them.

 

So for my part I guess I am suggesting reels with larger spools that can handle quite a bit more line.

3 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

Los carretes flotantes tienen menor longitud y masa de eje: se utilizan en Daiwa Zillion, Steez y Ryoga.  

 

vs carrete de husillo largo Tatula.  

I understand! You're referring to the shorter shaft, excellent. I was paying attention to the spool itself and not its shaft. Thank you very much.

I'm going to try hard to save up for the Zillion HD, but it's not an easy task.