Paul Roberts

Fun... I recognize most of them. A mix of old and new. Looks you like you are all set to fish. Only comment Ill make is on the hooks -they are bait hooks -probably for crappie. The reel, although nifty, will not suffice for serious bass fishing.

You already have the rod, and it is rated for certain line weights. Staying in that range I'd go with the lightest (that is, thinnest) you can get away with. With 1/2oz baits, you'll need to stay up around the 14+lb range. If really going up to 2oz, you'll prob want to go 20lb or more. Sounds like the 17lb mono is not out of line. To add versatility though, you might consider braid, and then you can use any leader diameter -within range of rod power and hook wire size. However, bass and walleye (are these smallmouth?) in a river no more than 10ft -without knowing more- I might seriously consider a lighter rig.

Mono may be easiest to deal with. I'd avoid FC. Braid is nice and allows you to change to different leaders of any mono or FC you might need. This is my general answer, since it was a very general question. More details require... more details from you.

That was not out of kindness, sir. Thanks. My penmanship is atrocious. Tried it once upon a time... i think I still have a cramp in my right hand.

Thanks, guys. I'd looked at St Croix, Rainshadow, and MHX, and then Bushido just now. The closest RS blank (66F, 2-6lb) I saw in action on YT vids. In both, the rods looked too soft in the tip. They bounced when cast and just caved under load leaving the guy wrestling his perch with about half a rod engaged. Exactly what Im trying to avoid. I went with the NFC -and the exorbitant shipping- bc they had a 6ft XF 4-8lb (assuming this is a Mag-Light taper), which are the closest numbers for what I'm looking for -a Ned/hair jig rod. Hoping the XF action makes up for the Mag-Light tip. We'll see what arrives; Keeping my fingers crossed. As with any rod I bother to build, I'm hoping it'll be so wonderful that I'll have it buried with me when I pass on to the big pond.

Both work. Rods off the rack pretty much use the same components as what you can buy in build parts. But if there is something specific you want, building may be the only way to go. And if you are creative you can make it beautiful as well as functional. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and factory rods -and those made by others- don't always meet one's expectations. My most recent build was a 7'6" XF 4wt fly rod for dry fly fishing on my mountain streams. Could not find what I wanted off the shelf, and was able to make one using a Batson blank. It needed to be stealthy, so the blank is a flash-less sanded black carbon and black guides. I made a custom handle for it -many are too long. I made it pretty, to my eyes, and named it "Arctopsyche" after a large high elevation caddisfly. Next up is a 6ft XF UL spinning rod with an NFC blank and graphite Tennessee handle. I looked at a number of high end factory rods out there and just wasn't impressed enough to bite. I wont be saving too much money -exactly- but I'll get exactly what I want. Hopefully that is... I won't actually know until I have it in hand. But XF in a 2-6lb blank by NFC should be a good bet. The Batson fly rod turned out to be perfect.

I got one at "50%" from the NFC site. But shipping was $30! They had the blank I wanted so I bit. Will have a graphite Tennessee-handled XF UL/L for under $200. I hope I like the blank. Hate buying rods unseen. What brands would you recommend?

Wow. Just wow. Gary, how do you do your lettering?

I'd definitely start with the rod/reel combos. You can't play a round of golf with one club. And you can't cover year round fishing with one rod. Versatility in presentation types is very important if you do much fishing. Rod/reel outfits are the starting point. That said, you don't need a whole bunch of outfits, at least to start. But I'd definitely add another one: I see you're in Roch and mention Cayuga. Knowing where you are helps a lot. I'd add a medium spinning rig, 6-12lb line. This will cover your lighter tackle bass applications. This'll come into its own in colder water, clear water, and areas with little cover. Techniques that this rig will add to your game include light jigging (3/32oz-1/4oz), Ned, Shaky, tubes, small swim baits, Drop-Shot, small crankbaits and topwaters, in-line spinners, ... . This is a standard rig EVERYONE should have, esp in the north. As you can see, there's little reason to collect such lures and techniques if your lone rig is not appropriate for them. Can you use your BC rig for these? Depends on the line weight its currently holding, the rod power (and sensitivity), casting capability of reel, and your casting ability. Still, spinning is better suited for these lighter applications. Lastly, the best rod length you choose will depend on where/how you fish. If you fish from shore a lot I'd go shorter, say 6ft. If from a boat a 7fter is nice. If both, I'd say a 6'6" is the best of both worlds. Happy shopping.

Gotta calibrate your scales to really know. I use 2.5lb and 5lb weights hung in a plastic bag. I calibrate at 2.5, 5, and 7.5 -as far as I need to go where I live. Some scales calibrated at the 2.5 mark are a little off at 7.5, and vice-versa.

Close enough. That was a heck of a catch.

Yup.

Love this thread. Been there. Good tips too (Thanks, BB86). Back when I lived in steelhead country we sometimes hit super-cooled conditions (water below 32*) and "anchor ice". I used to pop my flies or bait in my mouth to thaw them.

Wow. ... Not sure what else to say! Congrats!

My experiences generally agree with CroakHunter. This is exactly where I am right now -first "winter" fishing of the year. I'm editing a video on this right now. And yes, every cast counts -esp in winter.

Lots of kind people out there. I'd say most. They just don't make the news all that often. Thanks for posting this.

A switch to nocturnal feeding by mature bass is a common summer scenario when water temps are high. Happy its panned out for you, and reaffirmed a "common" scenario. Another common scenario in hot water is a "first light bite". In my experience, it happens just as you describe: bites quit about the time the sun hits the water. Before then, it can be... wild. The difference is like a switch being shut off. Rather obvious and easy to find if its occurring.

Sword, where are you? Ah... I see, Illinois, and ~60s water temps when you started this thread. I have often done well with speed when water temps are in the upper 50s into the 60s. It seems the fish are in some kind of... funk. They are slow to respond, or don't respond as well, to standard "feeding" type presentations. I've done well though by burning a lipless, bulging a tandem SB, or grinding a buzzbait. Interesting bc, this has often been the case on water I've just plied with slower presentations. I switch to speed and BANG! Sometimes its been BANG!, BANG!, BANG!, BANG!. Enough that it's pretty apparent its real. It could be something to do with dropping light levels, low water, and dying veges.... maybe. I really dunno. They remind me of "stale" steelhead, that come into the river on early runs, all full of spit and vinegar, then water levels drop and they get into a funk -what we called "stale". Whatever, bass do seem to get into a funk; Interesting that Bluebasser has noticed the same thing. My advice, for myself that time of year. 1). Try SPEED. 2). Try a different water layer -bottom, rather than asking them to come up. Then... 3). try a new water body. BTW, I just put out a video on fall fishing that briefly mentions the need for speed.

I still haven't figured out "Fall" to my satisfaction. Currently, I'm in a frustrating situation with a particular water body. I've been catching fish -and good ones- until about 1pm, then nada. I mean dead for the remaining 5 hrs! I haven't exhausted all possibilities yet. There are just too many variables to put my finger on the culprit. I'm going to change gears there, and see what I can come up with. Then I'm switching waters. Would love to figure that one out, but 5hrs is a long time to go biteless, esp every day.

This is what I most often do. However when transporting kids, which I do on occasion, I bought 3pc rods -Daiwa Ardito's. They fish so close to one-piece rods that I use them interchangeably with my one-piecers. Highly recommend.

I do the majority of my swim jig fishing -in fact a dedicated rig- off a MH spinning rig. I use 20# braid and a 14lb leader. Jigs run 1/8 to 3/8oz. I use them for open water, cover edges, and even on slop at times -although my fish are northern fish and not large.

I don't think line "visibility" is terribly important. J Francho catches smallies on wire, and Team9nine, I know, has caught plenty on straight fluorescent braid sans leader. But even a thin FC leader can, under high vis condtions, freak fish out due to the movement. Ever wonder why "drag" is such a "no-no" when dry fly fishing? It's the tippet dummy! That supposedly tiny little insect is suddenly 2 feet long! I may camo a line (done it for years in fly-fishing) due to line flash in the air under certain conditions -a definite fish spooker. Otherwise fish don't know what line is, unless it's something perceived large and moving nearby -and that long string, thin as it is, can move a lot of water. Dont worry too much about line "visibility". There are bigger fish to fry, like line diameter against conditions. I've always said if there was one BIG breakthrough that could be made in fishing, it would be eliminating that line tied to our lures. Any ideas? I'm all ears. Oh, and yes, black lures can be very visible underwater, esp against light backgrounds. And conversely, light lures can be very visible, esp against dark backgrounds. Then there are "colors". Not going there.

Nice, Glenn. Well covered. Fun to watch too. I liked the "I'll get the net off the camera if you catch a fish."

Might actually want to speed it up.

Not likely. I've actually wondered the same thing. Bass notice everything and are pretty quick to sort out what's dangerous.