J Francho

No, lock it because someone resorted to petty insults and disrespectful attitude. The question posed above was what benefit is there to remove the shields. The reply was that it is easier to clean. Then someone had a bad idea to clean the bearing with a Dremel. Now you're asking how a Dremel could damage a bearing unless there was some dirt in there. How would dirt get in there? Uh, you removed the sheilds because you didn't want to wait out the cleaning process. So you see, it's not a matter of I'm a mod and you're wrong. It's a matter of BEST PRACTICES, and realizing for the ten or so people that posted here, hundreds of others will have also read it, and taken something in here as gospel. I'm not gonna be the one that broke another guy's reel.

After the $150 mark, there generally is no leap in performance, if any. It's usually materials, design, or durability that justify the expense, not performance. Let's face it, a spinning reel either works or it doesn't. Even a $20 cheap I feels smooth right out of the box. Down the road…you get what you pay for.

You guys can do what you think makes your reels work better. I'll do what working on thousands of reeks has told me what works. You don't need to replace bearings EVER if you do it right. Right generally means slower. Have at it. When you ruin things, I'm always available to help you out. As a general recommendation to the average guy that wants to clean up his reel and get some longer life and maybe some added performance, some of the advice in here is not the best. Degrease, rinse, soak in solvent, dry. Lubricate, then test. If it's not what you think it could be, repeat. There is no short cut.

Lol, just throw $20 at it rather than simply do it right. I have reels that are more than a decade old with OE bearings in them.

You don't need inserts with brass.

Yeah, all you're doing is grinding and polishing the bearings down with the grime. Shortcuts are rarely the right way.

Looks like we're done here. It's taken a turn toward the political, and that is forbidden here. No exceptions.

The Dremel is a good way to ruin a bearing. Test them on a chopstick with your finger. A gentle flick, and it will spin smoothly and quietly with no chatter when clean and dry. Then you can lube them with whatever oil you like.

There no reason to remove the shields. Ever.

Most rec anglers I see are much harder on the fish than the pros. They take too long to get the hook out, then have to take a thousand pics, after they dig their phone out, and by then the fish has asphyxiated.

Had some HPH baits custom made. Was around $70 per. Fish over three pounds caught is in the dozens.

Those aren't the only two you can stand in, not by a long shot.

Jamming pool noodles inside a SOT would increase the mass, and make it sit lower. Just wear a PFD.

My answer hasn't changed since the last time this type thread popped up: I'd find another hobby.

Lol, 1/3 of his budget is in the trolling motor!

Why not load it stern forward then?

I suppose after a decade or more of success, we can't really call it hype anymore.

Pod, indeed. https://www.facebook.com/WildernessSystemsKayakFishing/videos/10153370433787319/

I understood perfectly. Who would use a plug to drain the water? Lol. You need a different boat if you near sinking without scupper plugs. All it takes is one leak, which is more likely in an overburdened boat. For the record, I see a great many people in fishing kayaks, the only time I saw what you described us when a 300+ dude tried a Freedomhawk ultralight 12 on a demo day. It's not the norm, and it's why we all stress seat time. I don't mean to pick on you, but it's an opportunity to point something out and for a Newb to avoid.

Here's the new kayak.

Lure, especially if you need a cutting board. What a cool, but weird boat. Paddled my buddy's and dug it.

Those the ones. 80# braid, no problem.

Commander 120/140 fit your parameters, if a little pricy. I ran a Jackson, it was ok. I run a C140 now, and it's great - fast, stable, tracks true, and relatively light.

White Python