J Francho

Set it and forget it!

Your favorite.

Actually, the power refers to the stiffness of the blank, whereas the taper or action refers to how much of the blank flexes. A moderate rod will flex deeper than a fast rod with the same power rating with same amount of force applied.

Depends on the bait. I have rods rated up to XXH I use with moving baits. My Avid AVC70MHM is great for baits 1/2 to 1 oz.

I've seen enough madness surrounding whne the spawn starts, and what gets it started, moon, temp, length of daylight, wearing red jeans..... I'll say this...tempaterature has an effect on the viability of the eggs laid, and can even have an effect on the gender of the hatching fry. That's true for just about ANY egg laying fish. Lower temps = longer incubation time, which means more time with a male guarding the nest, and vice versa. I can't remember the relationship with temp to gender, but there were several farms using to influence the gender of the "crops." So, if temperature can affect the outcome of the spawn, then I hypothesize that there is a optimal temp. I have no way to test this, but research (different from expieriments guys!) shows it's somewhere in the low 60s. Up here, when water temp is on the rise, approaching 60° F, I start checking my ponds. They always spawn first. Then it's shallower, warmer Lakes, finally, the bigger deep lakes. I've seen smallies on beds in Lake Ontario a full month after I've caught smallies on beds in the bays. And then I've seen largemouth on beds in late July on Chautaqua Lake. Crazy stuff. I do think temperature has a big effect, but I also think that there's a ot of other factors. Moon phase, wind, suitable, calm locations, etc. Basically all the ideal conditions have to come into alignment. There's probably a window of time around this alignment that would be the "spawn." Anyway, that's how I think of it. Anyone that says you can predict using one parameter is lying or deluded.

The drag is there for a purpose - set it properly, and you won't break your line on a hookset. I usually go around 1/3 the breaking strength of the line (not the "test" advertised), so somewhere close to 3-4 lbs. of resistence should work well with 8 lb. line

10# Fluoro or copoly, 20# braid.

Jitterbug, and billed crank, safety pin spinnerbait, jig.

I like the Calcutta 200B for the heavier umbrella rigs. For a Carolina rig or lighter rigs, any low pro will do.

New stuff comes out all the time, and it's hard to find an objective review of it all. It's better to pick a few anglers you relate to online, that use gear you're interested in, and see what they've said. That's what I do. Last step is to try one out if you can. Even just putting your reel on a rod can change your whole impression of a combo.

That's an Albright. Good knot.

so let's wrap it up - pun intended Albright/Alberto: 15 replies Back to back Uni knots: three replies Triple Surgeon: one J knot: one Jose knot: one

Unless it exhibited some issue, I'd let it dry inside and fish it. Reeks are made to get wet.

Is there a question? Call Saint Croix.

Versatile? Probably 50# braid and various leader/no leader, or a strong copolymer in 12-15# size.

I encourage all my competitors to tie knots and avoid dressing them before cinching them. In just about every thread that deals with fluoro and knots, it's brought up how critical it is to wet your knot before tying. Suddenly I'm wrong to bring this up here? Oh wait, is it because I criticized someone's hero? We aren't fishing for permit, and we're not using 30# leader. What works for that is irrelevant here. No matter how great an angler Jose was, he'd have been better if he tied better knots, and less film would be on the cutting room floor. Tie a knot like this with 20# brain and a 10# leader and tie a mangled mess down by the hook without dressing the line and you will end with a problem. You'll post up here about it, and EVERYONE will tell you what I just said. Tie a better knot and dress the line with saliva before cinching. As far as what he used in the video, I don't tie a spider hitch like that, but it is good knot to double up the main line. When I used back to back Uni knots, doubling the mainline helped to join a much larger leader without pulling through. A proper Alberto is a stronger knot for our application. An Snook, go ahead and pick on my failed knots. They failed before I ever fished them. That's why you test your knots.

What I have are what I think are called linesman pliers. They'll cut through hooks, and have a 1001 other uses.

I like 15 or 20 lb. Line.

Those are perfect. I don't think mine were as long, but that's the idea.

Never had an an issue with jigs and mono either. It's not like they're subtle bites.

Walleye, perch, northern pike, bullhead all taste good to me.

Braid is terrible in sub freezing temps. I prefer mono for trout anyway.

Just talk to Daiwa USA. Toby has always taken care of me.

I've ordered gears many, many times in the past. Is this new?

Keep it civil.