J Francho

I don't think your going to get more than around 20" out of that bait. At least I can't, even burning it.

Here's a really good recent thread on this very topic: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/147413-smallmouth-and-largemouth-comparison/

I don't agree with that part either.

Actually, I think we're probably saying almost the same thing, though I'm being more specific. Thanks for the clarification.

You telling "credit card companies" aren't banks? I'm speaking directly about using a card to pay for your purchase. That card is offered by a bank, with certain assurances about privacy and security. No, you can't can't control when a employee jots your info down, and steals from you. I'm not talking about that. I'm talking about the systems in place for processing and exchanging credit card purchases. These systems are integrated into point of sale systems, which are supported by banks offering the cards. It's their responsibility to ensure the data integrity standards. Places that use an integrated POS system, like bigger chains, should comply to those standards as well. I'm not sure where the breaches occur, but for a bank to allow retailer to bandy about this data insecurely is pretty foolish. They're the ones that have to pay for the fraud. Maybe, that lost money is less than what it would cost to protect it's customers. Things that make you go "Hmmmmmm."

I just got a rod in that could handle this bait pretty well: Pinnacle Perfecta DHC5 Micro Casting Rod 7'11" MH Crank.

Don't quit your day job!

You're welcome. Post back on this thread when you get it resolved. And don't keep trying it on the other reels.

Yes, I realize this - I work "in the business." It really depends on how you set things up. I'll leave it at that.

It's because yolk springs are broken in at different rates. Send it in, but it's no guarantee that it will go away, even if they replace the yoke springs, spool, and pinion.

Light line, you need more precision with each click of the drag. The lower the break strength, the lower your margin for error. Here's two schematics. Single felt washer and metal key washer stack: http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Spinning/12ST1000FJ_v1_m56577569830789021.pdf Multi stack drag: http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Spinning/12ST2500FJ_v1_m56577569830789022.pdf The multi stack drag has a greater range of fine tune adjustment, and less prone to initial stick.

It may be the ratchet (#2404), though I doubt it is bent. It's probably off the dog eared plate. Tossing is probably not the best advice. Unless of course, you don't care about having a fail safe anti reverse, or the reel's value. I know if I bought a reel missing parts, I'd expect a discount. If you don't want to use it, it can be removed without harm, and stored. Some feel it's not necessary (myself included, a little bit, though I leave mine in), and takes away from smoothness (this part I can't tell on any of my reels that have it).

Sounds like winter has set in, and we're playing with our reels. Tighten the spool tension knob to, and see if it goes away. If it does, it's the spool vibrating back and forth.

If I understand you correctly, you are reeling fast, and stopping the handle quickly? Then spool continues to spin, while making an obscene chatter/clicking noise? Your next reel will do this as well, if you repeat the preceding. If you do this repeatedly, you will wear out the pinion engagement slots, and it will get worse.

No it is not possible to stop breaches, however it is possible to implement safeguards that enable monitoring and determining the source of the breach. Then there must be international laws in place to punish the crime. Currently, there is very little of the latter in existence.

It's the spool engagement pin slipping on the pinion slots. Stop doing it. There's no real world fishing situation where this would happen. Many reels do it, and it can sometimes be resolved by stretch or replacing the yoke springs. Otherwise, it's a fail safe.

Why would you need a leader? I don't use one.

Shaky heads are usually 1/8 oz. and below for me, and that means spinning. 15 or 20 braid, and a 6 to 10# fluoro leader. Use an Alberto knot to connect your leader, and set the drag for around 1/3 your leader's strength.

The line will become unmanageable, leaving you with wind knots before it becomes weakened. There's definitely an effect, it's just not as pronounced, or takes longer to manifest. Oddly, its the 8 carrier lines and the fused filament lines that exhibit problems with twist before simpler, 4 carrier lines.

Spaceman was not an option after high school.

Oh god, I'm sorry. The thoughts and prayers are incoming.

Still don't get it.

If you go braid with a leader, you can downsize to a smaller spool. With straight fluoro, copoly, or mono, I'd look at something equivilent to Shimano's 2500 or Daiwa's 2000 size. Also, larger spool reels usually have a multi disk drag stack, whereas smaller 1000 series have a simpler drag. If you plan on using 6# line or less, drag gets important.