J Francho

I once found a french fry inside a round reel, lol.

Yep, does make sense. I've seen grooved Recoils from that as well.

Looks like my ex's new apartment.

You know it, and they're much more likely to agree, LOL.

I'm almost positive photobucket is using unique filenames, not incrementally numbered files, so if you delete one, it should NOT affect the rest of the filenames. Change the album/gallery, or otherwise reorginize them, that may be a different story.

It's not a negative review, nor a review at all - that's a subjective document. This is a fact. The blank is two pieces glued together that came apart, and the tip top is badly grooved. The rest is left to inference. Maybe Scott can get back to us about what line and conditions the rod was used to result in that grooving. I will say this, that's a pricey rod. I've also noticed that some rods that are pricey aren't quite as sensitive as others of the same ilk. I wonder if the two piece construction is the cause? It's not completely relevant, since most rods over $50 have been sensitive enough for me. Some are just more so - remarkably more so.

I think my own collection is around a 70-30 split, right to left.

Crest, can you post a picture, so I can look at the path? Let me know the "number" that PB says it is.

A little bit. Nothing of any consequence, though. Yeah, that's in front of Mill Creek in Webster.

Got kids and painting this weekend, lol. Thanks, though.

PM sent. If anyone wants information regarding an excellent pay service that I've been using for around 10 years, PM me. I can give you a coupon code for 20% off. I think basic subscriptions are $30/year.

Glad to have you on the team, Clayton.

That grind almost invariably leads me to new northern spots, lol. I once fed a half dozen slim shads to the gators before figuring out there was no "fishing through the pike bite." LMAO.

It's actually the "Bullet Cant," lol. Good advice about the water pickup. I forgot about that. The top two inlets on mine are plugged, and I get 18 psi at WOT, trimmed out to max speed. If I ever get a high speed hull other than a Bullet, I'm going with a Stroker, and a hydro jackplate. Those boats handle so well at high speeds. Not as pretty as a Bullet, though. Last bit of advice to anyone adjusting things back there - check your bolts after every trip, and torque them appropriately. For whatever reason, I never had any issue until I started messing with my height.

You fishing it? Good luck, man.

Lots of deals to be had in the Flea market.

http://heroesonthewater.org/

I'm curious as to what you do with that "extra information" a tungsten weighted Carolina rig or drop shot is supposedly telling you. I use lead for DS and brass for a c-rig. I can tell whats there based both on feedback and what's on the graph. I'm not convinced that sensitivity is really an advantage, and not just a side effect. I use tungsten on my pegged t-rigs because its smaller. I also like to match the bullet size to the bait, so if I'm using a big plastic with a light weight, I will switch to steel, since it's a better fit, and is more weedless that a tiny 1/8 tungsten head on a 12" worm.

1/3 of the weakest point in your system. Usually that's either the max rating of the rod, or the breaking (not "test") strength of the line. So a heavy jig and worm rod with a 12-25# line rating and 50# braid can be safely set to 7 or 8 lbs. of resistance. A drop shot rod rated to 4-10# line and 6# fluoro can be safely set to around 2 lbs. of resistance.

Like anything else, there's a lot of misinformation spread about what is possible on the internet, and what you can control. I'm pretty hard to find, yet I "hide" in plain site, lol. Unfortunately there isn't one place where you can find an internet security "do's and don't's" list.

Funny you mention this - I hadn't thought about it, but, I generally do make contact with something in less visibility, whereas in clear water, they call fish from great distances. I'm not sure how far they're coming from in dirty water - can't see the fish - but I'm sure it less. The contact thing is true for just about ANY moving bait in low visibility water.

Not really. It probably doesn't even need to be put on blocks, it's so light.

Test drive it, if there's something wrong...you'll know right away. If the seller wont do a test drive, forget it.

Bright ones that rattle. I like "clown" in dirty water.

What? Go find a reputable boat mechanic and have it checked out after a test drive. If it's hinkey, walk away. There's enough that can go wrong on a good boat - you don't need to start with a bad one.