ksbasser

grease and grit have caked togeter to form a concrete like adhesive between the knob and the handle posts. Water will not clean it out. You need to use something that can cut the grease and flush it out, but also something that won't ruin the knobs. I would start with a full can of WD -40 or a similar product like Blaster. Wear eye protection , preferably full gogles and face sheild. Use the extension tube to force the spray between the knob and the post. This may be a long process where you let it soak and repeat the spraying until you get it all broke loose. Do it in a garage or outdoor area becuase it will be messy. If WD-40 isn't strong enough, then you can use products like brake cleaner or carb cleaner, remember, these products need to be used in a safe , ventilated area with saftey precautions. After you have them cleaned, I would soak them in a solution of hot water and soap or simple green. That will remove the residues from the stronger cleaners. If you have acess to an air compressor and blow gun, you should dry them and force the air through the knobs to blow out the remaining crud and cleaners. then oil the knobs and they should be fine.

put a split ring on it and then tie any strong knot you want. Rapala type loop knots are only 75% break strength knots.

sounds like the problem started with the worm gear for the line guide. If you get some grit in there, or if the pawl gets a little worn, it will jump the track and cut into the worm gear. The line guide will then lock up, that locks up the handle, because the handle tries to turn the worm gear. If you force it, you will strip the teeth on the plactic drive gears for the line guide worm gear. Now it seems that you need a worm gear, a pawl and the worm gear drive gears. There is one plastic gear at the bottom of the crank stack, it turns another plastic gear that is on the end of the line guide worm gear. You probably need to replace them all. I don't think you have a problem with the anti reverse clutch.

Even experienced users can have major problems with the revo magnetic system, if you don't read and follow the directions. If you set the reel the normal accepted way for pin brake reels, it will over run. The first thing you have to do every time you change the tension is to turn the mag knob to zero. If you don't do that, the tension will be way to loose and you won't know it. Then set the tension to the weight of the bait. You don't want it to fall on it's own when you engage the thumb bar. you want it just tight enough that you need to very lightly shake the rod tip to get the bait to fall a foot or two. Then set the mags at a 1/3 to a 1/2 depending on conditions. At that setting, I can make long casts virtually thumb free.

The Accurist and the Accurist PT reels range from $50.00 new to $100.00 new, depending on model. Try googling your exact model. Ebay is a good source of used reel values.

$28 Clean/Polish/Lube $27.95 ABEC 5 Ceramic Hybrid Bearings -$5.60 10% discount $8.50 x 2 shipping $67.35 total TYD http://www.delawarevalleytackle.com/ WOW.

use grease on the lock groves when you put the cover back, or it will be even harder to get it off next time.

J, I have not been cleaning reels as a side business as long as you have. But during the time that I have, I've seen a lot of corroded reels. I've seen some that looked fine on the outside and was full of corrosion on the inside, and I've also seen some that had just a random spot like this reel. In one of my background professions, I ran an auto paint /resto shop. I'm also a certified welder, machinist. My day job is now a materials inspection engineer. I have seen and dealt with a lot of corrosion in my time. Most reel manufacturers have tried to make their reels resistant to corrosion, but all aluminum alloys are very susceptible to corrosion. All it takes is a small break in the plating to allow any corrosive material to attack the base. If that starts, it can crawl under and though the surrounding areas. You have suggested several possibilities. Unless you set up a test situation where you scratch and expose similar reels to each possibility, you will never know for sure what caused this. I think your first guess may have been very close. Not so much from worm burn but maybe from heavy salt content in a plastic bait. Salt is still one of the most corrosive elements there is. If there was a scratch trough the protective plating, and it was stored with a salted bait hooked to the reel, then that could have easily started the corrosion. It could also be several other common household items that got splashed on to the reel in storage. Ice melt could do it, so could a splash of lemon juice or even catsup. Anything with a pH level above zero is capable of causing it to start. I understand the frustration that some have shown about sending the reel in under warranty. If it's the owners fault, then the owner should suck it up. But, how could any of us know that it's the owners fault. Shouldn't a new reel be able to resist corrosion from such simple possibilities? I see no problem with sending it in. If they say they are not responsible and it's not covered, then suck it up. It could also be that they would like to look at it to try and learn how to improve the corrosion protection. It could also be that they will see that their plating failed somehow and was the path that allowed this to start. Unprotected aluminum alloys can have serious corrosion from almost anything. If the plating failed then that did in fact allow it to start, then the corrosion itself becomes the caustic agent that will eat at surrounding coatings.

I asked Glenn to warn you guys about this a while back, Do you know who this is? It's David Guidice. The flaky deaf guy that ripped so many folks off. He has been kicked out of the Alabama bass club. They finally realized that he was using their name for promotion while screwing people. He has been banned from almost every site there is. He is still an active member of Mikes Reel Repair board. That's where he asks questions to try to figure out how to fix the reels that he gets sent to him.

yes, you should be able to change the ratio to any that it was available in. The customer service gals at BPS will help you with that. (417) 873-5274 Mon.-Fri. 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. central time

The pinion gear is not fully disengaed from the spool. The spool drive pin is hitting the bottom of the pinion. The cause could be weak springs, but could also be worn parts or too much grease on the pinion carrier or posts. You will probably need a new pinion gear now. I prefer to replace the main gear also so that they will be a matched set. You may need a new pinion carrier and new springs. Clean the reel and see if the pinion carrier slides freely on the posts. You should also check the cradle area of the pinion carrier. If it is worn doown, the pinion will set to low and may cause your problem. The parts are available from BPS rod and reel repair at the Springfeild store.

If it is definitely the gear teeth causing the rough feel, then simply call the customer service gals at the Springfield BPS rod and reel repair center. Tell them the model number and ratio and order a new set of gears. I think they are $6 to $8 for a set or there abouts. It wouldn't surprise me to find that the rough feel is the worm gear and pawl. try removing the pawl cap and pawl. Then crank the reel. If it's still rough, then it's probably the main gear and pinion gear

but...but.... it's a Shimano. Not working right out of the box? Aren't those handmade by God himself? LOL I actually have some Shimano reels. I quit using them because I just didn't think it was very sporting. Every time I showed up at the lake , the fish just started jumping in the boat in a mass act of surrender

I don't want to start any arguments with this post or any brand wars but, I get very tired of seeing guys bash BPS reels. They sell some reels that are excelent quality and some that are not. The extreme is one of the best reels for the price that there is. PERIOD. Is it built as good as some $200 to $400 reels? NO. But it is built just as good as many reels for twice the price. If you use them a lot, every reel made will wear down. Thats why they sell replacement parts. If you expect that you can simply clean a reel, year after year and have it stay new, then you have been misled. You can't do that with any brand. You certainly can;t do that with a Shimano. Look at some other recent posts. Many Curado owners report that the reel felt rough out of the box. Many say that the backplay in a curado drives them nuts. many say they are the best ever. I have serviced over 1000 reels, a mixture of every brand there is, in the last year. I have found that every brand will need replacement parts after a certain amount of use. I have seen many shimano reels that are a year or two old that have seriously worn parts. The good news is that most of those parts are not expensive. As for the handle issue you saw. Thats the same for every brand. The cheaper reels may not have any bearings in the handle and the most expensive will have 4. the med priced reels will have plastic and one bearing. Curado reels didn't have any bearings or bushings in the handle untill just the last few years. If you listen to BPS bashers long enough, you will start to beleive them. What they don't tell you is that thier reels have the same problems that yours do.

By strating at $175.00, you have excluded several great reels that fall below that price range. The Revo SX is below it. The Shimano Citica is below it. BPS has some high quality reels below that price also. If you are sure taht you want to spend at least $175.00 then the Shimano Curado E7 or the Revo STX would be good choices. The E7 might be a little fast for some presentations if you don't slow the cranking speed. The Revo is available in 6.4.1 or 7.1. For cranking, I would get the Revo Winch or the E5.

Some reels have a bearing that suports the pinion gear. That bearing has nothing whatsoever to do with the spin of the spool other than to center the the pinion and decrease resistence on the spool shaft. That bearing would only need to be changed if it's rough. That type of reel will usually only have 2 spool bearings , one at both ends. To upgrade spin performance, you change both of those bearings. If your reel actually has 3 spool bearings and it has a fixed, non disengaged , spool shaft, then you can get a performance increase form only changing the outer two bearings, but common sense should tell you that if the 3rd bearing, behind the spool pin is spinning during the cast, which it does, then if it has more resistence than the other bearings, it will decrease performance. The statement that it would only come into play during a hard fight could only be true if it was not in solid contact with the spool shaft and the reel frame at all times. Every 3rd bearing that I have seen is in full contact at all times. Perhaps you have seen large trucks that have extra wheels under them, some of these just barely or not at all touch the road, those would come into play when hauling heavy loads becuase thats the only time they are in full contact with the road and the truck. I have never seen a reel with a 3rd spool bearing thats similar to that condidtion. I have seen some with plastic bushings that don't have full contact though, so I can see that those were there for suport and might not slow the spool if they dont touch it. If you don't agree with this statement, then you could test the theory. Replce the 3rd bearing, behind the spool pin, with a rusty seized or very rough bearing. If you still have a perfectly smooth casting reel with full distance, then the tackle tour article must be correct in thier opinion, but I just don't see how that could be posible when the bearingis in contact with the spoolshaft and the frame of the reel. it has to spin for the spool to spin. If it creats more drag than the other bearings, then it should slow it down.

I seriously doubt that the type of grease Shimano used had anything at all to do with your problem. I also seriously doubt that the drag grease you used did anything to help the reel, but I certainly don't think it will hurt it. Dan T. once told me that Shimano techs regularly used drag grease in spinning reels, but they don't have to pay the high price for it that everyone else does. It's a very sticky grease, therefore it could actually make some reels seem sluggish depending on the parts you use it on. I hope, for your sake, that your original problem was caused by some contaminate from the manufacturing process or simply to much grease in some areas. If in fact the problem was a less than perfect set of gears, then the problem will return as the drag grease dissipates from the gear teeth and gets flung off. If a new reel feels less than perfect, it should be exchanged. After you have owned it for a bit, and are sure that it's in tip top "stock" shape, then you can improve it further with a cleaning and re lube using better quality lubes and smaller amounts. The single biggest improvement would be from thoroughly cleaning the spool bearings and then adding one drop of premium reel oil, or for absolutely amazing casting results, you can lube the spool bearings with extreme Reel +. With heavy use you might need to do that occasionally during the season.

If you are tired of using an expensive spinning reel for a few seasons or less only to see the bail arms get worn, loose and sticky, then buy a Soron. Aluminum bail arms with bearings in the pivot points. These look to be built like a tank. If you often say that you wish you had a spinning reel that could horse a fish out of cover like a casting reel can, then again , buy a Soron, They have multiple carbon fiber and stainless plates. They have more drag strength than many casting reels. If you are saitisfied with mediocre performance in a spinning reel, then dump several hundreds of wasted dollars on a Shimano or Daiwa. Just my opinion based on use and studying the schematics to see ow they are built.

The Premier is a lighter reel. They are both built on the same fram with the same basic design. The premier uses less bearings, less drag washers and a lighter spool to decrease the weight by 2 oz. I don't think thats worth any extra money, unless the 2 oz's makes a huge difference to you. The set up on every reel is different and the experience level with that reel will dictate how much tension and brakes you need. Try setting the mags at zero, then set the tesion to a medium drop speed and then put the mags back at about a 3. try that. remeber to always set the mags at zero or off spot before you adjust the tension. then set the magnets after the tension has been set.

If you were only changing the drags, that would be how you do it. If i went to the trouble to take one apart, I would clean all the parts and I would not just add oil to the bearings without taking them out and cleaning them. Also, you need to make sure that you use drag grease on the drags washers, not regular grease. Theay are not the same thing. He used a bit more than you need, just wipe a thin coat on both sides and wipe the excess off. The small drag washer goes under the brass gear, the bigger one goes in the brass gear.

Any parts dealer that caries Shimano parts will have the spool. They will all be about the same price. My question is, If you want the Curado spool, why didn't you just buy an E5 or an E7 curado? By the time you buy a spool and posibly the crank bearing, you could have bought the curado

He got a low launch number, went straight to the best spot he knew of, worked the heck out of it and caught a bunch of fish. He had forecast months earlier that under the bridge would be the best. He still checked all of the lake in practice but confirmed his forecast. Let me get this straight. There were no off limits areas. There was a check for $500,000 on the line but many people feel that he should not have fished in the best area he knew of. I don't care if that area has more fish from transplants. That info is common knowledge. Other anglers had intentions of trying that same area, KVD got there first and stayed there.

You might have the tension/cast control cap set to tight. Loosen the cap half way which will allow the spool shaft to move to the right and this should give you room to fully close the side cover. You could also have some grit or something around the side cover or locking tabs. check to make sure that's all clean. Put the lock dial in the open position. shut the cover and wiggle it in place. If you have the above options done, it should be a good fit and you can then lock the dial.

With the exception of the newest generation of some of the revo's, Most Revo reels have only magnets for the braking system. Mag reels need to be set differently than centrifugal reels. Magnets have the most resistance on the spool while it's turning slow, therefore, you need to have the magnets turned off when you set the tension cap. If you have the magnets set while you you adjust the tension, then the mags will slow the spool which leads you to believe that you have the tension set correctly, when in fact, you have the tension set way to lose. This is the primary reason that so many people think these reels are hard to use. Read the setup directions that came with the reel. step one: set mag at zero. step two adjust tension to a point that when you depress the cast bar, your bait will not drop until you lightly shake the rod tip, then the bait should drop a ft or 2 before stopping on it's own. Step 3: adjust mag control to desired setting, increase if needed. Once you are doing good with these settings, you can set the tension a little looser than the 1 ft drop.

Quantum has a very easy to navigate schematics section inthe customer service section, but they pretty much only have current models. Mikes reel repair has an extensive list of current and older models.