Team9nine

Wishing I was fishin - Just another rainy morning commute, stuck in a long line of traffic instead

Start here ^^^ Looks like the transducer is off. Doesn't really look like bubbles to me, but you might play with scroll speed also to better help discern. Readings are best when boat speed and scroll speed are coordinated. When in doubt, go faster, not slower.

After lunch snack today - Cherry Danish

Trees around here are saying Fall, but the lakes and their water temps aren't buying it...

Usually not the units, per se. Definitely level out the transducers. If you have the feature on your units, use "keel offset" to standardize depth between them. Also, sounds like you might need to take them out of auto depth range or even auto sensitivity. New units and processors are much better and pretty smart, but not perfect.

A long time ago I had a Hook Hone-R made by a company called Pointmatic that worked exactly like a pencil sharpener. Not certain if that's what Catt is referring to or not. Company went out of business many years back.

Lol - proud to say, I own no Senkos or Sprinkers. Maybe I'll start my own club

For the most part, braid is braid, and lack of sensitivity on slack line will be more or less similar across brands due to similar composition. Diameter would only play a negligible role with braid because diameters are already to the thin side, though lower pound tests usually give you better feel since there is less drag on the line. Heavier nylon/copoly/fluoro lines typically stretch less for the same amount of pressure applied. If fishing relatively close in, it might be worth while. The benefit gets lost with longer cast lengths due to increased diameter and drag, though lure type plays some role in this and will vary results. Don't prestretch fluoro. It works fine with nylon based lines, but you risk overall line strength loss by doing the same with fluoro. I would try the MH fast rod and see if that doesn't help out. Also might need to hone your overall hook setting technique, as some methods apply more force than others.

Yep, every lure displaces a certain amount of water, some more than others, but fish can pick up (feel) that displacement and locate the source if given enough time, along with using any visual or auditory aids also.

Small lakes have been a little slow with this weather and lack of rain, but managed a couple dozen this weekend including this guy - score another one for finesse fishing

The best way to organize is to eliminate The less tackle you have, the easier it is to remember what everything is and does.

Pond hopping today...

98% of the time, I don't change color. As for the remaining 2 percent, 1% of the time is if I'm getting my arse whooped on the water and I can't come up with any other reason why The other 1% is if I just want to play around and prove to myself that changing colors makes no difference in the bite as @IndianaFinesse alluded to.

Sitting in a line of traffic at the moment, trying to get to the lake.

Rapala Tournament touch screen for most fish. Certified Chatillon spring scale for beasties

Different person then perhaps. There was a crankbait carver here in Indiana who went by the name "Whittler" online, whose real name was John Mills. John passed away a few years ago.

If we're thinking of the same person, sad to report that Whittler passed away several years ago ?

Ned

An idea that goes back at least to the Bomber Water Dog. You can add a spinner to most crankbaits in some form or fashion. More recently, look at the LunkerHunt Hatch Spin, Bill Lewis Spin Trap, or the LC LV Spin. Might be better on schooling fish where you don't need as much fall from the bait.

Only because everybody and their brother has forgot about slider fishing. If it was getting even half the attention the Ned Rig has, you'd be having to explain just what is or isn't proper "slider fishing" to everyone trying to modify the technique to their liking

Unless you have a friend with some acreage and a barn, storing inside the fenced area of a storage facility is about your only option. I did it for a couple years when I lived in a condo that didn't allow boats. You want to have 24 hr access. You will also want a road cover of some sort. Don't leave anything of value in the boat (rods, reels, tackle, or easily removed electronics). Also, you'll have to figure out some way to charge your batteries, which isn't as simple as it sounds. Not certain of the going rate, but guessing $35-$50 per month. The other option is to store it inside a lockable unit at one of these same facilities. I'm doing that now while in every middle of another move. Still have to figure out battery charging, but I can leave everything in the boat uncovered after a trip. Costs vary, but expect $150-$200 per month for such a setup.

And that is probably the safest bet. "Ned Rig" is an ambiguous and ever changing term. It has been captured by Zman and the masses, and is constantly evolving. Even Ned himself has no control over the term. It has been interesting (and sad) watching the whole thing play out. Fortunately, there is a Ned system It is called "Midwest Finesse," and it has more defined boundaries. The media hasn't been able to screw that one up yet, and probably won't. It is where Ned himself lives and plays, along with the rest of us 'originalists.'

My first guess is just the opposite. There appears to be no shortage of small fish prey in this lake, mostly baby bluegills, and eliminating most of the shoreline moss is making it easier on the bass to feed - much less places to hide for the little guys. My main concerns are oxygen levels and copper poisoning, but so far no obvious detrimental affects other than the toilet blue water color

They've been treating the heck out of the small lakes I've been fishing trying to knock out the algae. Three weekends in a row, and the water is almost a cobalt blue color. Still finding a few bass willing to eat my finesse baits though.

It might, but it certainly has been weakened. Best to just trash those hooks you've bent and reshaped. It will eventually cost you somewhere down the line if you don't. You can get by just fine with a little heavier rod like a medium, but ideally it will be a little slower action, not a fast or x-fast.