Fishing Rhino

Whatever you choose for lights, be it an individual light, or a cluster of lights, there should only be two wires for you to hook them up, three in the case of tail lights on a trailer because there is a ground wire, a tail light wire, and the brake/turn signal wire. You'll find the same plug/wiring on a tail light with ten leds.

A minimum of 6 gauge for the trolling motor. Individual led lights should each have their own wiring. If the lights for your compartments have several lights in a strip or some other grouping, they should have two pigtails, one negative, and one positive, to power the complete assembly, not pigtails to each individual light in the grouping.

Pre-mixed is fine. The downside is that at idle or slow speeds the engine is getting an oil rich mixture that is only needed at higher rpms. I have to believe that if there were a significant number of engines self-destructing because of an auto mixing failure, they would have ceased using those systems. I'm assuming that one of the reasons they use the auto mixing systems is to make the engines conform to environmental standards by minimizing the amount of unburned oil exiting in the exhaust.

The weedless Gamakatsu is the way to go, unless your state bans lead. I've fished the Buckeye Flick It with the football head. I prefer it to the Jackall for two reasons, price, and they are better in the weeds and rocks. I have fished both extensively. When all is said and done, the Gamakatsu Wacky Jig with the two nickel titanium guards are the absolute best for slipping through the weeds. The Jackall and the Buckeye have eyes that protrude from the jig head. That configuration is great for snagging vegetation, especially the fine stemmed stuff. The eye on the Gamakatsu is recessed into the front of the head, which allows it to slip more cleanly through the plant life. The Gamakatsu comes in four weights, 1/16th, 3/32nd, 1/8th, and 3/16th ounce. I use the 1/8th ounce versions. It suits my style better than the lighter versions. If you fish weightless, start with the sixteenth ounce version. They are pricey, but in my opinion, they are worth every cent. For those who have experienced the fish taking their wacky offerings deep, try using a circle hook. You do not need, nor should you use a cross their eyes hookset with circle hooks. You may just pull it out of their mouth. Take up the slack, if you have any, and put a smooth pressure on the rod. The hook should work its way to the corner of their mouth, just about eliminating gut hooked fish. The bent in tip of the hook prevents it from setting into flesh until the eye and part of the shank are out of the fish's mouth.

Did you operate it in any area that had thick vegetation? That can choke the intake, and cause overheating. It happened to me at Guntersville last year.

Is it possible that a new dipstick will slide past the broken part in the oil tank? If it will, and the part in the tank doesn't interfere with the flow of oil to the engine, you should be good to go. Since the part that broke off was an integral part of the oiling system, it certainly will not contaminate anything, nor will it disintegrate in the oil.

How does someone bust a dipstick? They must have gotten it cross threaded.

I'll start with the smack, even though I have no horse in this race. It's one thing to get to the Super Bowl, but another thing to win it. In the same vein. Half the teams that make it to the Super Bowl end up being losers. Sock it to me.

I looked into the Tundra when I bought my GMC. My main gripe with the Toyota (We've owned several Toyotas and the last two cars my wife has owned were Lexus) is trying to get it with the features I want. Some, such as a navigation system, were not available unless you got the sunroof, which I don't want, for example. To get what I wanted would have necessitated me buying a truck with a sticker price close to or over 50,000 dollars. I may be buying a new truck later this year, and I may look into the Toyota again. I think all of today's trucks are reliable and comfortable. For some it's brand loyalty. For others it's styling. For others, it's getting what you want at the best price. All things being equal, I'll likely end up with a GM product because a neighbor of mine is a service manager at a GM dealership, and he takes good care of me. When I need service, he picks up my truck on his way to work, and drops it off on his way home. That I get a good discount on parts and labor doesn't hurt either.

Four wheel drive is a misnomer. A regular pickup, unless it has a locking rear end, is a one wheel drive. All you need is for one wheel to lose traction, and you go nowhere. A "standard" four wheel drive is really a two wheel drive, if both front and rear axles have a standard differential. A locking rear end on a 4X4 will give you a three wheel drive and if you get a locking differential on the front and rear, then you have a four wheel drive. Soft terrain that allows the tires to sink into the surface acts like chocks on all four wheels. When you think about it that way, it shows the distinct advantage a "four wheel drive" has over a standard pickup. At least you have two wheels trying to get the wheels over those earthen chocks.

The only time I put my truck in four wheel drive when pulling a boat is on sketchy ramps. If your fishing involves traversing dirt or sandy roads, four wheel drive could prove to be a necessity.

Well, now when you say you got a double header, it may have a whole new meaning.

There's something wrong with that math. 50/1 is the gas to oil mixture, not that you'll get fifty miles out of one gallon of oil. If that were the case, it would mean that to burn a gallon of oil, he'd have to burn fifty gallons of gasoline. I don't think it will take 51 gallons of fuel/oil mix to go fifty miles.

Fuel stabilizer is a must. Full is preferable to a half tank because there will be less condensation. Fog the motor to be sure the cylinders, pistons (including the piston rings), crankshaft bearings, reed valves etc., have adequate protection against rust. Change the lower unit lube. If you see any whitish discoloration there is water intrusion. If there is, you can get it fixed now, or refill with new lube and get it fixed when you return. Batteries will need to be fully charged, then maintained while you are away. Have family or a friend hook them up to a charger once a month. Be sure to drain the boat and dry it out before you leave. It doesn't take much moisture in the bilge or other closed areas for mildew to thrive. Take care, and stay safe during your deployment. Thank you for your service.

When I was lobstering, in late summer and into the fall we fished the south edge of Cox Ledge, and shared the bottom with party/head boats out of Montauk. It was the same scene with countless rods at various angles over the rail of the boat. We nicknamed them the porcupine fleet/boats for the obvious reason.

Back at ya.

Personally, I find the first post offensive. Why? Because of the first sentence. "Hello boaters. How are you? Enjoying the open water and choice of fishing spots? That's good. Glad you are having a good time fishing. Me? I was until you decided to bring your boat right along into the ONLY PLACE ON THE LAKE FOR US BANKBEATERS STUCK ON LAND." I have never, nor would I ever, under any circumstances do what you are complaining about. You should never paint any group with such a broad brush. Would you appreciate it if a boater lumped you in with all the shore bound slobs that litter up the banks with their trash, or leave dead fish on the banks?

Why does the song, "They call me mellow yellow" come to mind?

That does not necessarily eliminate electrical. In fact, it could point to electrical. The throttle also affects ignition timing If your motor's ignition timing involves any mechanical movement of the ignition system, that movement may be causing a short in the electrical system. I know older motors used to have a "plate" between the flywheel and the engine block that rotated slightly around the crankshaft to advance or retard the timing. A "pigtail" wire could be shorting out when the timing is in certain positions. We had a car that would do that, only when driving down a level road at a constant speed. Didn't matter what that speed was, as long as you weren't accelerating or slowing down. Hold the throttle steady and the engine would die. As the car slowed and the timing changed it would come back to life. The insulation on a pigtail in the distributor had worn off, and when the plate in the distributor was in one particular position, the wire would contact the distributor housing, shorting out the ignition. I don't know if or when the timing became a computer function rather than mechanical on outboard motors. If the timing is controlled electronically, then I'm guessing there is a sensor, or maybe more than one, that sets the timing based on throttle position, and other factors such as temperature, air flow, etc. A faulty electronic component may be causing the problem you are experiencing.

Unless one has a uti.

Maybe the engine starts dying when the ignition quits. It seems you have pretty much ruled out it being a fuel problem.

Who told you it was the sensor? There are times, and this may be one of them, when it's best to have someone with the electronic testing equipment, and the training, do the job. There are times that the aggravation and frustration are not a fair trade off to save a few bucks. That's particularly so when you are dealing with a critical component such as the one that's giving you grief. I used to enjoy working on my cars. That ended when computers, chips, engine control modules and a gazillion sensors took over control of the drive train functions. Yesterday was a perfect example. I was checking out a new, to me, place with an unimproved ramp. I got into some soft sand and put my truck in four wheel drive. I decided not to launch and when I got back onto the road, my truck would not shift out of four wheel drive. Got a "have four wheel drive serviced" message on the info display. Off to the dealer where I have my truck serviced. When they connected the diagnostic computer to my truck, it turned out that the tranny/transfer case could not complete the shift. It was a software issue. The control module needed an update (or upgrade, forget which).

You need to be on their email list or a facebook fan to be notified.

A thread which would make Howard Hughes proud.

Use white paint or some other light color.