crankbait2009

I have been watching the yakattack website for the new 12x20 landing net with foam extension. They had them in stock briefly, but that didn't last long. They had them priced at $100 + $30 for shipping. I've been waiting for a local store or online fishing supplier to carry them so that I could compare prices and hopefully avoid shipping costs. well, with fishing season quickly approaching, I had to buy one. Didn't really carry if it had the new features (locking joint and Lazer yakattack logo), but I located one on Eco Fishing's website. They have the landing net priced at $90, which told me that it was probably the old model, again didn't care. Bought the net for $90 and it came with free shipping, 2 days later, the net showed up. it was the newer model. So that was a nice surprise. wasn't quite sure why they were charging $10 less than yakattack for the same net. but whatever. If you're looking for the 12x20 landing net with foam extension and new features, check out Eco fishing. and shipping is free! they are in stock there!

as mentioned, a leak test would certainly give you your answer. Any chances you drilled into your hull and installed an anchor trolley? Maybe the holes on the side of the kayak is allowing water to get in. but if you're getting that much water in, I can't imagine the screw holes are the issues. Does that kayak have hull access which would allow you to see inside?

anyone have a manual or powered winch mounted on their kayak trailer? if so, can you share a photo of it installed. I'm kicking around the idea of installing one. not 100% sold on it yet.

I saw your original "link" but it wasnt clickable. So i copy and pasted. But im on the same page also. Im thinking a powered winch will be a tad much for a kayak 😁

im tinkering around with the winch idea as well. manual or powered. need to learn to work smarter, not harder. it's taken me many years to get to that point

i have the bunk boards extended 6" past the rear of the trailer. I thought about the rod box / rod tube as well. I went back and forth on that one. My rods will be on the front passenger side of my truck. I'm not sure I like the idea of them being attached to the trailer (personal preference), I also thought about leaving the crossbars for attaching a rack/storage container down the road. I nixed that in a hurry since I have the whole back seat and the bed of my truck to store things in. an additional storage system on the trailer is way overkill. so chop chop, the crossbars went made them shorter so that the ends were within the width of the fenders. I did attach ratchet straps to the frame. I liked that idea better than having to deal with the traditional way of ratchet strapping. this way I can grab the hook, swing it over the top and attach it to the D ring on the other side. so much easier. no knots/tangles etc to deal with. I do have to connect the wires together, but that's quick and easy. I will be using a wire loom/sleeve to enclose the wires to help protect them a little more from elements and everyday use. but outside of that, my mods are done for now. I definitely need to find a better trailer jack/front wheel. I find that the wheel does not swivel easily. the weight of the trailer doesn't allow it to move. so when I try to push or pull, it gets locked in the wrong direction and it just slides. I end up having to pick the nose up to move it around. defeats the purpose. but that's something I'm looking into.

Im getting ready to cut the crossbars down too, as we speak. I believe they're meant for two kayak trailers. Thought about pvc bunks. There are several options. I'll see how these board bunks work

My goal is to load and unload right into the water. This hasnt seen water yet. For me, i went with the trailer because it was black, and the off road tires. Its sexy looking 😃. I did weigh the options of the standard and off road, went back and forth. But for just a few hundred dollars more, i could get the nicer looking one. Although i have not tested it, i read somewhere that im able to drive 65-70 mph with no issues. But we'll see about that. I went with the single kayak trailer. It was easy to put together. Im modifying a couple things, but its done for the most part. Ill post some pictures when done.

I can definitely move them outwards more. When i first placed them, i googled the best location and it mentioned below the scuppers/center channel. Once i placed it, the thought entered my mind, well two thoughts actually. 1. There certainly isnt much support side to side. 2. I would think the bunks being further apart towards the outer edges of the kayak would be better. Since i wasnt certain on that, thought id ask the question here.

I have the bunks of my trailer locayed 12" apart, which has the bunks more in the center of the kayak. Is the location ok, or should they reside on the furthest sides of the kayak?

just checked, they don't carry them either

I know i tried buying through them right before the new nets came out but they didn't have them. Ill give them a shot monday. Thank you

Does anyone know what online retailers carry the new yak attack leverage landing net? the one with the new locking mechanism. YakAttack obviously sells them but I am looking for another online retailer that might offer free shipping. (Yakattack charges $30 to ship) the online retailers that show the nets, don't specify if it's the new version or not. anyone else order the new nets outside of yakattack?

for some reason, I didn't receive the flier this year. I'm planning on going this weekend so I'll get it then.

this could go under the equipment section of the forum, but i will post it here since it's an issue I'm having with my kayak. When you disengage the foot pedal to deploy the trolling motor, my prop is not moving forward so that I can release it into the water. I have seen videos where people mention to add a bungee cord inside the spiraled flex wire that goes from the head unit down to the motor. but I'm not seeing instructions on exactly how to do this. how much tension does said bungee need to have, and where exactly are you securing it to. that's if exact location is important. i believe that once this is installed, if i press the release button, the trolling motor will jump forward out of the cradle. that's the end result anyways.

they have their boat classic going on now. the fishing classic starts the first week of March (around the 7th). I'm waiting for the ad to release as well. I'm guessing it will start arriving any day now......by end of this week or early next week.

@Motoboss - that's where I am with mine as well. I've had it up and running a hand full of times last year, but do not have the auto kill switch installed. remote on a lanyard around my neck

thanks, I will check that site out. if you had a cover in place, why did you need to remove things from the kayak? couldn't you have kept them in place?

I saw a video on YouTube where a guy covered his kayak with a kayak cover for transporting. I never thought about that before, but that's genius. You could leave everything on the kayak, cover it with said cover, and go. the kayaks that have these covers on them, don't look like they have all the gear on the kayak, at the same time. the cover seems to have a very slim profile. so my question is this. does anyone cover their kayak with a cover while leaving all their gear in place? If so, how do you go about getting the correct size to accommodate the kayak and gear height? I have a 12'-9" kayak. common sense would tell me to go with a 14'+ cover to achieve this. Does anyone have experience with this?

for me, I have 7 Plano 3700's in my black pack pro which holds everything i have. I then have 4 Trac Pak's (2 on each side of the seat) that hold an assortment of lures. the 3700's are my overflow and only get used if i lose lures that are in the Trac Paks. My soft plastics get stored in a large bag that resides in the short stak that sits on top of the black pack.

I have the option to install that kill switch if I want (it came with the motor)

for those of you that have a trolling motor with a remote on their kayak. (not sure if fishing vessel matters) does anyone know the distance that the remote can be away from the trolling motor before it loses signal? I was thinking, ya there is an emergency shut off if you were to fall over board. but, what if you fall over, trolling motor is still running and you want to retrieve it using your remote control. while you're in the water, it would be nice to drive it back to your location. Does anyone know that max distance? anyone ever had to do this? I have a Minn Kota Terrova (36" kayak model)

well, as for "dead seas"....we have quite a few lakes in the mid-lower region. have you ventured up to the Dayton/Columbus area? there are good fisheries up there (so I hear). as for the south......we have Caesars creek, rocky fork, east fork, winton woods, LMR, GMR, Hueston woods, and although not Ohio, Brookville is an hour away from cinci. all of these lakes have got me bass, sometimes not. but you get that anywhere. you can even enter into Kentucky, going no more than an hour in, and you have a few lakes you can fish. check out Google maps, there are a lot of little bodies of water. If you're looking for hawgs, then I think you'll be limited. not saying they're not out there.

do it! she won't mind it's your house, your foyer. It's not about her!!

that would be like a 12" thick frame......super duper frame! well, I have been playing around with placement. and although i'd like to hang it above my TV in the living room, it would certainly look funny and out of place. so I think i'm gonna hang it from the rafters in my garage. one bay of my garage is kayak/fishing stuff. I think i'll hang it in that bay so it adds decor to that bay of the garage. i'll post some pictures once it's in place. most likely use fishing line to hang it.