airborne_angler

Today I ventured out just like I have in the past weeks, throwing a C-rig.Only difference is this time I was using a Brass weight. I've never had so many Sinker Strikes...likely pesky Bluegill. Is there anything that can be done to alleviate the issue or is it something you just gotta live with. Why am I getting more sinker strikes with the Brass and plastic beads than I ever got with the steel weight and plastic beads and even the Tungsten weight and plastic beads?

Ya know I thought the same thing about the Craw vs Original as far as packaging goes...can't tell em apart...might want to take a Sharpie and put a big "C" on the lid?

I had an issue with some Redeye Shads swelling up on me and a series 4splitting along the back. Sent them pics. They sent me replacements-6 of each, (instead of a series 4 i got series 6 cranks)and a hat...a month later I got an identical box from them. Seems there was an error, I contacted them and they told me to keep it...Even though I got different cranks than I contacted them about...I'm absolutely ok with it.

Well...regardless...it doesn't matter...my dog was table surfin and pulled the tube outside and chewed it all to h*ll...hope he don't get sick. Ill take what's left and put a little heat on it, liquify it and pour it in a small container like Smelly Jelly does with their product.Hope I can salvage the rest of this stuff...

For those that use Megastrike on a regular basis...have any of you used the Craw Formula? Comparing the original Megastrike to the Craw formula, has anyone noticed one flavor assisting in more bites than the other? I'm planning on trying the Craw Formula out for the first time tomorrow and wondered if I can expect any significant difference in the numbe of bites over the original.

A local guy I've gone fishing with uses a Rebel Popr almost exclusively. I've seen him catch some really nice fish everytime he goes out. One thing he does is gets some Storm Suspenstrips and wraps the very rear of the body with one. He says this allows the bait to remain almost vertical on the pause, and when he starts his retrieve again it creates a much louder, more pronounced "blooping" sound. Anyone else ever use this trick? What other tricks are there for doctoring topwaters?

The glass with water is what i thought might work...I just wanted to see if others would go about it the same way or if there was another concrete way of differenciating. Thanks

Have a pretty good assortment of reels in a cabinet which are all prespooled with line. Some with Mono, some with FC. I can't remember which ones are which...is there a test I can do on the line to tell what's FC and what's mono?

I have 7' Heavy Falcon Lowrider Carolina Lizard Dragger I which I have been told can do double duty as a frog rod. Caught my first frog fish on it last year...throwing 65# Spiderwire Stealth on it.Hoping to get into froggin alittle more thiscyear.

What is the white piece in the pic called. There are 2 of them. One of them is broken and nneds replacing. I need the correct name so I can order it.Or does someone have a part number?

Thinking maybe Plueger still belongs to Shakespeare...Shakespeare is part of Pure Fishing. According to the Shakespeare website for parts info you can call a number or email shakespeare@purefishing.com

Another example is the current Jeep Grand Cherokee and Dodge Duango...The Durango is actually built on the Cherokee Platform. 2 TOTALLY different vehicles but they both share MANY components.Look at a certain model Jaguar...its all bells and whistles, nope all it really is...ready???...its an overpriced, dressed up Ford Taurus... The first Generation Mercury Villager and Nissan Quest come to mind.The Quest had Nissan Badging and Nissan Engine on a Body built by Ford. The Mazda Pickup and Ford Ranger...Honda Passport and Isuzu Rodeo... I know were talking fishing reels sothat makes me wonder just as an example which reels are basically the same but are badged with different brands and seperate price points...

That's what I suspected...some reels just look too similar.So for example...if you buy a low end Shakespeare branded reel...you may actually be getting the exact equivalent of a higher end reel like lets say...Pflueger, Since Pflueger is owned by Shakespeare (surprised? I was) Although Shakespeare is more likely to be an entry level product. http://www.shakespeare-fishing.com/history/index.shtml So basically in some cases all you really are paying for is the name. Kinda funny how that works. Years ago I purchased some low end Renegade fishing line sold by Wal Mart.Peel back the label and you've actually bought Eagle Claw line...which Eagle Claw is the parent company of Wright and Mcgill,a sponsor of Skeet Reese...so if Wright and Mcgill sponsors SR...and the same company that sponsors SR falls under Eagle Claw...must mean Eagle Claw isn't THAT bad of a product...right? People look down on Zebco...Quantum and Zebco are one in the same...

I've often wondered who actually builds some of the reels for the low end companies. In todays market, there are lots of products made by other companies that have several different labels on them but are actually, at the core, the same item built by a specific company. Example being the Renegade Worm sold by WalMart. You might think its a low end, no name worm, but look on the back of some packages, you'll see they are manufactured for WalMart by MANNS bait company. Manns has in the past and continues today to make a reputable product. There can't be THAT many reel manufacturers out there. Theres gotta be some major manufacturers that make product for other companies...some reels just look too similar. Like who builds reels for the Johnny Morris (Bass Pro Shop) line of reels? I know Mitchell used to build the reels for the "Spider" brand back in the day and Mitchell has a parent company that's known as "Pure Fishing" that also owns Abu Garcia. We all know Pure fishing includes Berkley Products... See what I'm getting at...I'd like to know the parent company on some low end reels. Anyone have the inside scoop?

See...that's why I love this forum...there's ALWAYS something to learn...and when you learn stuff you can assist the next guy who has that same question...thanks everyone!!!

I've been taught that a good ratio for crankbaits is around 5.1:1 to lessen fatigue and give the bait a decent speed.At what gear ratio does a reel become less than ideal for crankbaits.

Anyone have any old rod and reel combos from way back when that is all ratty and beat up, but works so well that they refuse to give it up? I've got an Abu Garcia Ambassadeur Pro Plus with a great story that I had laying around for at least a year. I seriously doubted its working capacity and alway had it in storage. This year I really got to looking at it and discovered it might be good to try throwing crankbaits with it (5.1:1 gear ratio). This thing is occasionally noisy when you cast it...but I've never thrown a crankbait further...allowing me to cover more water and enjoyi ng the crankbait aspect of fishing a whole lot more. This reel is ugly, has a chunk of plastic taken out of it, I never really gave it a fair shake, but I'm glad I did this year...This thing is an absolute sleeper and ill be heart broken when it fails to perform anymore. Its vintage, so I'm betting ill be able to find the same model replacement pretty cheap(hoping).

12-25# line and 3/8-1oz on the weight

No worries

Would a 7' heavy fast actin be any match for punchin. Its a Falcon Lowrider Carolina Lizard Dragger I. Someone here told me it could be used for Froggin.So if its decent enough for that...how might it handle punching?

Here ya go:

Tourney Pro Marty Stone put out a video where he says if your frog leaves a bubble trail then the barometric conditions are just right for a topwater bite...

So there are some companies that sell "pre made" Carolina rigs with the weights and beads already on a wire. All the angler has to do is tie on thier mainline and leader.. My take on the Carolina Rig is a free floating bait on a leader behind a swivel, and a large "sliding" egg, or bullet weight. The key word is "sliding" sinker. This supposed to be so the wary Fish doesn't feel tension on the take. So if a person were to fish these pre made units...wouldn't it be MORE likely that the fish feel the tension because the weight can only slide so far? If anyone has used the pre made units I'd entertain any success stories...

Going through some of my soft plastic and came across a couple I can't tell who makes em One of them is maybe 3 inches long, looks like French Fry or Centipede and has the name "POPEYES" on it. The other bait is a segmented paddle tail and it says "PTFL" on the paddle tail. Anyone recognize the descriptions?

I recently picked up a Shimano Sellus Rod on CL. Its a 6'8" medium heavy worm/jig rod with an extra fast tip. I was wondering if it might be suitable for punchin mats or should it be used for standard jig/t-rigs? What else could this rod be used for...would it be suited for anything else specifically?