rubba bubba

2 techniques: - mash it with a pair of pliers - file it off with a dremel

Interesting, I will remember that; thanks. I use Slick Honey (thinnest grease I've ever come across) for the nipples on my wheel builds. FYI, Boeshield T-9 is not an oil, it is paraffin based. It's great stuff, I just wanted to mention that it's not oil based, that's all.

That Phil Wood grease is used to pack countless bike ball-bearings and pivots; it's a great all-purpose grease and you'll be fine with it. I'm not familiar with the oil, however.

Gorgeous.

x2 May be my favorite drop shot plastic.

Very smooth and very stout little reel. A bargain in it's price point, imo.

Didn't Roger say he went over the rod with a toolmaker's eye-loop, and found no impacted fibers (let alone a hit mark), prior to sending it in? Sounds like he was very thorough.

Are you saying graphite warps or something causing an alignment issue?

To your point, here's a recent Loomis warranty claim debacle: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1280865168 As for lack of accountability, that is certainly true for corporations and the people who run them as well.

Go for it, it'll be fine (and even under 1/4oz). Air resistance of the lure will be more problematic than weight.

You'll find there's a very strong "herd" mentality on this board for the various products. Reels/rods/line/breakfast sandwiches/etc... Whatever did happen to Muddy? He had a good heart with all the giving to the needy that he did.

Also a personal preference thing. Many here pay top dollar for as light a reel as possible. Others prefer the heft of a Zillion as it adds to the "overbuilt" feel/nature of the reel.

I think the point of this thread is clarification of the new terms, not whether the new terms are fair or whatever. I'm not sure there is much need for clarification of the terms, though, as confusion isn't really the issue, but it's not my thread.

Take a look at the thread I linked. Near the bottom, smbrule compares the Chronarch 50MG to the 50E.

Here's another thread that may have the info you seek: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1280174878

Whatever reel you choose, make sure you post pics as no doubt it will be some serious eye candy.

To me, 50 bucks is hardly a substantial altercation when you're paying 400-500 bucks for the product. I noticed you conveniently left off you can only use it once now as well. You can only use the FREE REPLACEMENT, no questions asked for the NRX just once. After that it will cost 100 dollars to replace a 500 dollar rod. So basically I'll spend 1/5 the price of the rod to replace it where as you'll spend almost 1/2 the price of the rod to replace Falcon Cara. You'll spend just under half to replace the Dobyns and about 1/3 to replace a Loomis IMX, 1/4 for the GLX and 1/5 for the NRX Now, you tell me, which warranty is better compared to the price of the rod. And if you think the sensitivity and quality is better in the other rods then you're just blowing smoke. In case you haven't noticed, this entire thread isn't about the NRX, which is new. This thread is about all of those unhappy individuals who have bought prior Loomis products, who have now had their feature set defined at time of purchase changed afterwards. Please recalculate your percentages after the 1 time usage. I believe they will come out to be 5/4, 6/5, and 4/3, and compare that to the other rods should they happen to break a second time. If a 100% price increase and a reduction from lifetime to just once is not a "substantial change" in your book, then there's pretty much no point in discussing the issue any longer.

Reel Mechanic has a good baitcasting for beginners article but this site is filtering out his url when I try to post it. Google "reel mechanic baitcasting 101" and you'll find the article.

To me, 50 bucks is hardly a substantial altercation when you're paying 400-500 bucks for the product. I noticed you conveniently left off you can only use it once now as well.

Why don't you read RoLo's thread and see how well they took care of him with his warranty, not expeditor, claim. And as for not buying a rod for the warranty, nobody buys a rod for the warranty. However like any sizeable purchase all features related to the product are weighed when compared against other products. Now that one of the features has changed substantially, it alters the total equation. Enough for some to leave, not enough for others. Just because you don't value the expeditor service in your equation doesn't mean that everyone else shouldn't as well.

Let me ask you a question: when you bought your car and the warranty was a factor in the purchase, however the manufacturer decided to change the warranty conditions for the worse (to you, the better for them), would you be pleased?

Here you go:

That explains the fire-sale in the flea market. Nice quiver you have there.

x2 - it's the nature of plastics vs. moving bait fishing. And because of this, whatever line you choose will lie much looser on your spool and is the main culprit behind subsequent "line digging" when you hookset or have a strong fish on. Your options are: - switch to a narrow diameter fluoro (narrow = less stiff) - switch to a more supple line (i.e. Yozuri Hybrid, etc...) - try the various line treatments - braid/leader You aren't doing anything wrong.

Are you by chance related to TeamGolija?...