rubba bubba

Do you know what brand/type of line you have on your reel?

Wow. That's all I have to say. Simply incredible work.

I would contact Falcon and begin the warranty process - they shouldn't break under normal fishing conditions. Worst thing that can happen is they say no.

More good info for you: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1189609782 http://www.westernbass.com/dotcom/library/view.html?id=2239

Definitely the Curado, but I'd try for the 6.x to 1. You can get the Curado for $150 tyd at various places if you look around. I prefer Shimano over Daiwa and you have a Shimano support forum right here should you need help.

I believe it is made in the same factory that the Pflueger's are made in - or so someone at Bpro once told me. Not to be confused with the Browning line that Bpro now owns. Do a search in just this forum for the BPS Extreme - there are a lot of positive comments on it, particularly when they were blowing them out for $39.

I've heard/read this as well, however I haven't used it enough to be able speak to it compared to the Palomar.

Now you need to test Uni to Uni vs. Improved Albright.

I would go with 2 very good reels vs. 1 excellent reel for numerous reasons. In that list I would hardly call the Revo S or the Citica "ok" reels. Good grief.

There are many excellent reels in the $80-$150 range so if you buy right, you could get 2 for your price range. Check this thread out: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1246369553

I highly recommend you start with the Senko FAQ above and the associated links within.

A thread on frog presentation from earlier in the week: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1246468748

A thread on this very discussion earlier in the week: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1246200018

I saw that about the reel seats but his prior post on jerk bait rods not needing to be so lite and brittle (as the 5C) is the one that I took to be an overall concern and not just about the split seat. Maybe he'll see this and post to clarify which would be great.

I agree with this, my point is that even with a weight the Senko outperforms a regular worm, imo. Your experience appears to be different which is fine, but for the same size worm (6" or less), my experience has been that the "stick pen" behavior out performs the ribbon tail behavior. The bigger worms (Anaconda, Power Worm) are a different story. So straight up the Senko outperforms in an apples to apples, plus you get the flexibility of being able to go weightless. To me, that makes it my favorite summer lure. Again, just my opinion.

Cue the "Shimano leg humpers" in 3..2...1... Doh! They're already out in force. Let's see a good donnybrook!

Not sure I follow this. I work the Senko both weightless and with a weight depending on which they prefer that day. Or both to mix up the presentation in a small area where you know the fish are. This flexibility alone makes it superior to a regular worm, however I catch better quality fish with a weighted Senko than a weighted regular worm so that's the closer for me.

I had talked with one of the builders at Mudhole at length on many of the different blanks, not just St. Croix. In comparing the SCIV to the SCIII he had mentioned how it was somewhat more brittle and if scratched would be more prone to breaking than an SCIII because of the higher graphite present. For the SCV, not sure where I heard it but if I do remember Reel Mechanic cautioning on the SCV brittleness in this thread: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1240678628

Fishing a Zoom plastic weightless I: - give it a couple of twitches, pause, twitches, pause - work it top water where I reel it fast enough and shake the rod so it stays above the water and has a small amount of splash The latter is a blast to watch when they hammer it.

Between my Dad and I, we probably have 4 or 5 of them and we've never broken 1 of them with all that we've caught on them in the past. We still use them if we go river fishing in the plastic jon boat as we're more likely to break one of them stepping on it in the cramped quarters so we don't use the really good gear. We have a lot of years/miles on ours with no problems; maybe they are making them even cheaper now. No clue, just giving you my experience.

Yes. I have caught a ton of fish on them before I began to go high end with my tackle. They work well.

Thanks. I'm not much into the bling for a rod so I like to keep it clean/simple. My next project is the SCIV version of that blank (SCV seems too risky for my use being as brittle as it is).

Maybe when you spooled it, you went the opposite way and induced twist? I was out of town this past weekend and found out my relatives had a mecca of a bass pond in their subdivision. I borrowed a cheap Gander spinning combo that they had and got rid of 1/2 of the cheap mono (broke off on some hooksets) and spooled on 15 lbs Ppro. When you spool a spinning reel you need to check every so often by dropping the line slack on the floor to see if it's coiling and if so you need to reverse the way you have it coming off the spool. You probably know this but just in case. Anyways - no memory, twist or any problems with the 15lbs ppro and this Gander spinning reel. It worked superbly.

This one is alot heavier action than what I normally fish and I figure if I don't like it I should be able to sell it. As you can tell by the prior gold/black scheme, I like my wraps to be colorful but the metallic thread is uber difficult to photo up close.

For the leader, I think the Uni to Uni is a stronger knot and smaller through the guides than the Albright, but others think the Albright is smaller. My recommendation is to try them both and determine what works best for you over time.