rubba bubba

I bought at least one reel from bev as well and although it was used, it was pristine. No complaints from me, but that's just 1 transaction of thousands of his.

Yes, but only if you dig up a $20 off $100 coupon first to make the price more palatable (they are everywhere). The Citica can be found online for $95-100 (haven't seen it under $90 but I'm sure if you were diligent like Sweet Daddy you could find one). Best reel under $150? No. Favorite reel of many in that range? Sure.

And so it begins as the bait monkey slowly moves in on another target... Congrats on the purchase; you'll find higher end gear to be very addictive.

Do a search here on Vanish - a lot of people, including myself, had problems with Vanish and have stopped. XPS is good and so apparently is the Berkely 100% fluoro. P-line fluoro is also very very good.

Mine currently is the Zoom Horny Toad with a 4/0 or 5/0 hook, weightless. When these run out, I'll be switching to ***'s toad for a while.... Green pumpkin and watermelon red.

What ReelMech said, or you could take it back to Bpro. Frequently they will exchange it for a new one.

Why, if a) where you fish most men don't need light low profile reels, and a high dollar rod to catch fish, and the Mojo is just as good as the Steez? That $1k gift card is yours so why wouldn't you return the Steez so you can buy 2 more Mojo's since a) you can't tell the difference, and you don't need it to impress anyone where you fish?

In that price range this board is pretty evenly split between the Citica and the Revo S. The Shimano guys are probably a bit more vocal since they had to listen to the pro Revo guys for sometime now. One has a few more bearings than the other and they both have centrifugal brakes. If you can go to a place that has both, check them out and get whichever one you think feels/looks better. Ignore the retail pricing as they are noticeably cheaper online.

It's one of the reasons I prefer the fusions over braid. Since all the strands are vertical, it doesn't make that sound.

This comes up a lot - here's a recent thread on it: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1248871014

Wait, what? Give it a shot, you might like it. I recommend it highly, I'm just saying it's not clear as mono.

How far into the spool is the pitting? Is it pretty much on the whole line or is it just on the 10 or so feet of the end? It shouldn't break so easily so it would seem you got a bad spool if it's only 3 mo's old.

And out of the water. I can certainly confirm it is NOT clear as mono.

I use the Crystal and prefer it over braid.

I'm having Carrot Stix deja vu. vu ja stix?

Well sure, but other than that he's a very gifted writer...

I mostly fish barbless so if I did have a break off, it would work itself free shortly. It's all part of using lighter gear to fish with. People will have breakoffs with heavy line as well. I get just as few breakoffs with lighter lines than I do with heavier lines as it's all in the drag setting and how you play the fish. The rare breakoff I do get is invariably a knot failure (whether light or heavy line). Note, I don't use light line in heavy cover.

??? This is an easy question: - you get the braid/fusion benefits: - no stretch; greater sensitivity and power - no memory - and still give the fish a sporting chance I have several of my baitcasters set up with 8-10lbs of braid. Like why would you bow hunt if you could use a rifle?

It would most likely be something with the drag discs, etc... If it's still under warranty, have them send you another one. If it's not, send it to Reelmech and he'll make it better than new.

Whatever you do, don't respool with the Vanish as your breakoff problem will drive you far more nuts. If it still slips after respooling, send it to Reelmech or post further in the Shimano forum. The key is to look closely and determine if the line is slipping or if the spool is slipping. Get your eyeballs next to the baitcaster and confirm, or do what Reelmech suggested about taking the spool out and then pulling to see what slips.

Learn both and go with the one you prefer; use the other if you're on the water a lot and you're one arm is tiring. Btw, perhaps this thread should be made a sticky?

It'll probably hold ok if it's in a non-flex location. Get a piece of dowel and do a test. It's ghetto but it should work.

PM Cadman. I bet he could make you some for mega-cheap.

You need to look at the history surrounding the origin of the first baitcaster, not Mesopotamian era construction theory. There is evidence leaning towards the left handedness of the designer; there isn't evidence that anyone has provided (to date) that he wanted it to behave like a winch and so wanted to use his right hand for that (and thus purposefully designed it that way).

Your point is very valid. I can only suggest that the frequency would be less (all lures have lines, but not all lures have bullet weights or weedguards or trebles), and it may be harder to see a bullet weight that is black on top of a black soft plastic, or a brown weedguard on a brown jig/soft plastic, etc... An example I can give is when fishing a VERY clear river a couple of months ago, I used a brown football jig, brown weedguard, brown Baby Paca Craw with good success. I lost the jig on a snag and didn't have anymore browns. I switched to a black football/black weedguard with the brown Paca and did not get another bite. However all of the above are theories/subjective thoughts. They could very well be bunk. By no means do I recommend anyone believe what I'm saying.