rubba bubba

Yeah - put a hook in the head, the middle and the tail. It'll probably span 3 beds so you can hammer multiple targets at the same time. Leaves more time for drinking beer - clearly he's an efficiency genius.

Yep, thanks.

The Walmart Berkley Cherry rods are half that and are eminently fishable. If you want to spend the full $50, the BPS Bionic Blade is frequently onsale under $50. It is a much better rod than the Cherrywood but how much your wife would be able to distinguish is the question.

Ok, this is where my confusion lies as intuitively since the rest of the rod is pretty stiff, particularly for a fast action rod, that I would think the flex point would not be lower than when it started. Thanks for the explanation. I do have an additional question - your example reference if you break it down by the 2nd or 3rd guide, what if you break it right around the bottom of the tip top? Since that would be above the current flex point, would it still move the flex point down? ie. if I try your test, instead of pulling down from the 2nd or 3rd guide, if I pull just below the tip top (where my experience has been in breaking rods - and not from fighting fish but from clumsy feet stepping on it)

Ok, let me try my original question again. Note it has nothing to do with power, only action (since the OP asked about what changes would occur to both). If the flex point is higher up the rod, it's a faster action rod, per the definition. So this means the rod bends closer to the tip, the faster the rod gets, which also means the further from the tip, the stiffer (less flexible) the rod blank itself becomes. Now if you break off the tip, and for argument's sake, let's say the bend location was 8 inches from the tip. If you break 2" off of the tip, the new bend location becomes 6 inches from the tip. The net result is that you've moved the bend location higher which, by the definition in the sticky, means it is faster. However what's being said is if you break the tip, the action actually gets slower, which is where my confusion resides. The only way I see it actually getting slower is if you break off at the butt, which would end up in moving the flex point lower - same distance from the tip but now closer to the butt so the geometric result is to move the bend point lower. Your thoughts?

So then is the Power/Action sticky definition of "Action" wrong since it is based on the location of the bend? Action The action of a rod is a rating, which describes the amount of curvature that occurs in the blank due to loading with weight. The faster the action, the further towards the tip the rod bends. The slower the action, the further towards the middle of the rod and so on.

How many hooks are you going to string that with...

I haven't used the Sahara but I have several of the lesser priced Sedona's and absolutely love that reel. Incredibly smooth and a true workhorse. Not sure how much better the Sahara is but you sure didn't get a lemon.

Looks like you just answered your own question.

Who buys a sharp stick in the eye for $950?

Per the Rod Power/Action thread: Action The action of a rod is a rating, which describes the amount of curvature that occurs in the blank due to loading with weight. The faster the action, the further towards the tip the rod bends. The slower the action, the further towards the middle of the rod and so on. ------------------ So if the action had the rod bending more below the break, then wouldn't you speed up the action as you are in essence raising the location of the bend to be closer to the tip?

I'm sure you can return them as well if they won't price match.

That's true, but it's still not as much off as he feels (and I agree) he should have gotten. Settling never leaves one with a good taste in their mouth.

Only if you want to pay shipping on top of tax.

The question I would ask is "Why not use a spinning reel?" to discussions like these. Myself, I only use bc's, even for under 1/4oz lures (wind or no wind) and less than 10lbs line. However that's my preference. I've used spinning gear for decades and still own a lot of them but never would I suggest someone should switch. I can give the reasons why I use what I use, but that's it.

In before the lock!

x2. I only use ewg's for hooks. Jigs - I prefer to be ewg's as well.

Can't tell what type of weight/action the rod is of yours but I can tell you I get just fine hooksets with pretty light action rods. The questions I would ask are: how hard is your hook set motion, and what is your drag set to? When you set the hook, do you end up peeling some drag? If so, this is good but make sure your drag is not set too light otherwise it will be hampering your hookset.

What if the Banjo Minnow became an advertiser/sponsor for this board? Now that would be quite the matter/anti-matter paradox.... ;D

Here's a tutorial from someone who did just what you asked: DIY split gripping

You're not being the jig, Danny.

It's a good reel. If you bail on it to get the Curado, sell it to someone here for cheap as I'm sure they'd pay to have it fixed.

Alright, alright - I'll volunteer to let you pay me to use the Rage Tails. I really didn't want to but obviously no one else is stepping up so go ahead and use me as the guinea pig. No need thank me, just trying to help everyone out here. Carry on.

Never used a Daiwa BC, but that sure is one good looking reel. Sweet score.

If it were for more than a year, I might consider it.