Jrob78

Like I said, they've been doing this for years. It has nothing to do with the Raiders moving to San Antonio. Why would the Cowboy's want more competition for the TX dollar anyway?

Not all sales are auctions. An item can be listed as "Buy it now" with a set price. That price is the price you pay.

They do this every year and have for many years. I'm sure Jerry Jones and Al Davis were buddies.

I went to a tackle store last weekend that had a Duo pro staffer on hand. We talked about the Spinbaits and I got to check out the Spinbait 90 and the new deep diver (G87 20A). He basically told me the same thing, without really clear water the Spinbait isn't a good option.

Yeah but have you tried it yet?

You're right, I don't have toothy bait stealers here. I always forget that other people do.

I like a faster reel to make sure I can always catch up to fish. It doesn't have much to do with reeling in quickly to make another cast, although that is an added benefit.

I don't know anything about the Daiwa but the Okuma's are really good rods. The build quality on the one I have is excellent and it can handle a wide range of baits. I'm sure the Daiwa's are good but they haven't been out long enough to know much about them. If you really need the rod to throw light swimbaits and frogs, go with the 7'6" MH.

Yes

I like faster rods for those presentations, something in 7's or at least the 6's. Save the 5's for crankbaits.

While I agree with you on a rod for swimbaits, I have the 7'6" H and love it. I wouldn't want to throw frogs with it though. Really, the answer is 2 rods.

If that's the only big bait you're going to throw and you need it to do double duty, get the S. I wouldn't like frogging or pitching with a swimbait rod.

Read my mind

The nice thing about topwater baits is you don't normally lose them. Be vigilant about your line and should be able to hang on to them for a long time.

I'm a Yellow Magic guy too but the Pop Max is a great bait. I have a few and I think they are worth the money.

RIP Robin Williams, you will be missed.

I agree, they shouldn't all take 75-100 lbs to win.

Ike took the win with 47-14 over 4 days. He beat 2nd place by 8 lbs. Ike is the only guy to catch a limit all 4 days. 12th place had 30-9 over 4 days. 2 guys weighed in 0 fish over the course of the tournament. It was a tough one but not nearly the toughest they've ever fished.

My experience has been that if you really want to utilize your BFS reel, you need to go as light as possible on the rod. I love St. Croix rods but they are normally under rated, at least in the heavier powers. I have no experience with the Phenix but if you're going to be throwing weightless finesse worms and stuff like that, go as light as you can.

Don't be scared off by that price. He has $100 just in guides, or close to it. You can do a custom build for considerably cheaper.

No, a BBZ 6" floater weighs 2 ounces, not 1. It is probably going to be too heavy for your MH rod.

I always weave my line through the wiffle spool, doesn't matter what kind of line I'm using. I realize it isn't necessary but I do it and have never had a problem. It will keep braid from slipping if you don't use a backer.

Correct

That distance is from the bottom of the rod to the bottom of the reel seat. You have to decide where you want the seat to go and then use calipers to measure the diameter of the blank at that spot. Blank exposed reel seats fit snuggly on the blank. Order a seat that will fit on the blank at the spot that you measured.

Building on the spine of a blank is something some people do and some don't. I don't. I build on the straightest axis. When you look down a blank it will normally curve a little. Not too many blanks are arrow straight. I like to build with the blank curving up so that when you look down the rod it appears straight. The weight of the guides will also pull it down a little. I never noticed any benefit to building on the spine so I quit doing it. There are guide charts online that will help you find placement. Most builders static test their blanks to find the ideal placement. Guide charts are generic and don't account for different blanks and different guides but they will work. Reel seat placement is completely personal preference. It will effect balance though. I normally have 9"-11" between the butt and reel seat on casting rods, depending on how long the rod is and what it will be used for. You can use any blank for any rod. Bass spinning blanks will be less powerful than casting blanks. Rod building is fun and rewarding but don't plan on saving any money. Go to rodbuilding.org and read all you can. Mudhole is a good one stop supplier but there are many others. Most places will test fit components for you so you don't have to guess or place two orders.