Delaware Valley Tackle

Try WD40 followed by simple green then then the CLR as a last resort

I throw them on a spinnerbait setup of appropriate power either mh or h fast.

The spool tension should be set so the spool stops when a free falling bait hits the ground. THEN set the brakes and expect to always need some thumb control

The way I read the op the drag should have slipped before anything was damaged. If you want to contact me directly I'll do my best to help you figure it out.

Replacing the guide is the "right" fix.

No, you got $700 worth of rods for $450. "Warranty " often gets confused with replacement program.

Those guides alone retail for $25.

On a fresh water rod, line wt ratings are practically meaningless. The advantages of braid to bass fishing has nothing to do with pound test. Use your drag and common sense and your rods will be fine.

We as consumers would be better off if these manufacturers would work out the bugs and improve upon models and lay off the generations, gimmicks, redundant models etc.

You certainly can use co-poly for cranks and it may be the best choice in cover and around zebra mussels

Rather than fret over drag setting if you're worried about breaking off, concentrate on tying good knots and re-tying often.

No problem. If you find the braid fouling the bait add a short stiff leader.

I don't get the concept even. Why would you crank the reel with the bail open?

Do you need tape to keep it from slipping or does the stretch of the main line prevent that? I've only used Dacron backing on fly reels.

From the looks of it that threaded barrel just cam loose from the blank. Easy fix. If you want to tackle it email or call me and I'll walk you through it.

If i had to guess I'd suspect that the knot between the two 12# lines created a bump and caused the issue. Check that to see that it's as slim a knot as you can get.

Not all frags require grease. Sounds like yours might have gotten oil or grease on it inadvertently

A quality reel with an aluminum frame and good drag (not necessarily 20# worth) will do fine

If you'd like to send it in, I'll take care of it for you. Provide your screen name with it and I extend a 10% discount to members off the already low price of $22. Postage and parts are extra. Message me or just follow the link to my site. Mike

I've used some Rodgeeks glass/ carbon composite blanks that are nice. GOOD glass blanks are the best of both worlds. The old Lamiglass SR705 for example. I like mod fast carbon blanks for shallow cranks and popping off weeds

It depends on your reason for using a leader at all.

It depends on the way you grip the rod. As I do, with the stem between the middle and ring finger the weight is right at the fulcrum and makes little to no noticeable difference.

Ya a well done build on a quality blank will outshine a poor build on a top end blank. I did a rebuild on an LTB blank that had overly large , poorly spaced guides and it was night and day.

Yup, in fact you can add Pflueger to that list. Welcome by the way.

They're all on the same platform and built in the same factory. If the PQ has the features you like and is most economical.....