Delaware Valley Tackle

Couldn’t agree more. Daiwa went 180* away from what I liked about them then. The Core and E series Shimanos are my all time favorites.

It broke = I broke it. True defect account s for a very small percentage of breaks. I’ve moved nearly all my spinning to ML rods. Remember the term is subjective though.

Weight wise it doesn’t matter. I like 10# backing. It doesn’t take a lot, packs well and make a small easily buried knot.

That’s right. Next will be getting the nose piece off the level wind. Standing by

Glad you worked it out

A deep cleaning or at least flush and oil of spool bearings should be your first step, followed by brake setting review with cleaning and vey light oiling of the brake drum.

If you’ve had revos before and liked them you’ll probably like the gen 5. If had them and didn’t like them, you probably won’t now. They’re not night and day different.

The sealing of reels is way over rated. There are millions of Ambassaduers, penns , curados etc that are decades old and still going strong without being sealed or any other new technology.

I’ve used the rod geek blend rod with the glass top and graphite butt. They’re light and have a nice action. You’ll want something that loads really well to baitcast those light weights.

On a mechanical AR it’s the dawg not pawl. But without a schematic or part number we can’t search. I have dozens of them from e series etc if they’ll fit you’re welcome to one

Anyone seen these advertised? They look interesting but $50+ for a three pack is pretty steep. What do you think?

So easy to fall into that trap when know they flat out get bites.

I have a folding net for steelhead fishing that’s perfect for just what you’re talking about.

Theoretically speaking. Lol

I seldom have to apply the surcharge but I need to have the option for when I get a saltwater reel with years of corrosion that takes a full day to refurbish. And never charge more than the basic without permission. If anything I tend to short change myself. I also give away lord of advice here and on the phone for free. I’m happy to troubleshoot with you and/or repair if you’d like.

To say opening a reel and making lots of adjustments is way overstated. Centrifugal brakes can be set at 50% and never touched again. Certainly not several times a trip. I find them more forgiving than mag only brakes ( excluding Daiwa’s)

Skipping and super windy days when casting is too much grief.

Max drag is over rated marketing. Means next to nothing in real world scenarios. If want to test for curiosity that’s as a good a way as any

Very common and easy to do.

My bad. hadn’t seen the casting version

ABU website lists an aluminum frame for the Zata. Either way, carbon and aluminum both have grades of quality. Carbon like Shimano’s Ci4 are strong and light while low end cast aluminum reels can be brittle. https://www.abugarcia.com/zata-spinning-reel-1523062

It is an aluminum frame with carbon sideplates according to description on TW. Sounds like a good value even if the rod gets delegated to a spare or loaner or even sold.

We’ll have to agree to disagree on that one.

Why can bushings get contaminated but bearings can’t? I’ve seen lots of seized bearings hardly ever a bushing. Either way the reel should be cleaned and lubed regularly. If you like the free spin in handles that’s fine but just a personal preference. I’m with Jfranco in lubing handle grips to be smooth but not free spinning. As to the OP there’s no NEED add grip bearings, try one reel and see what you prefer.

This is spot on.