Delaware Valley Tackle

The sleeve stuck in the AR gets slid onto the shaft. Replace side plate, click plate large side up, spring washers as shown prior, flat washer, drag star, handle washer, handle, nut, retainer.

Savings potential depends on the level of rod. The higher end you go, the more you can potentially save and vice versa. Saving money is the absolute worst reason to get into rod building IMO.

The seat could be replaced from the back end which would require a new grip as well. You’re looking at $15-$20 worth of parts, $40-$50 in labor plus shipping. If you have to buy PVC you could be into it for $125 give or take. Some sort of tape or other binding is the only to use it as is.

I don’t have that part here. Lews has been responsive in my experience. My guess is that they’re hold onto whatever parts inventory they have for in-house use because back orders are horrible in every industry now. Look at some ABU schematics and see if Pure Fishing can send the part.

I ordered parts one time for a reel that had saltwater corrosion. I received a call from a manager there asking me about why I needed those parts. He offered to replace the reel with a more expensive saltwater rated reel and no charge. I was , and remain impressed by the entire interaction.

Just exchange it since it’s new. FYI 99% it’s just over lubricated abs a flush and light oil will make it right.

Drag wearing metal is total BS. That particular bearing is just for support and may add a little bit of smoothness on a long run that never happens in bass fishing

The bearing under the spool has no affect on the drag itself. Most likely the felt was dried out or sticky. I junk them for carbon drags. All that bearing does is lateral support. It would have to be completely seized to even notice

Soaking bearings more than 10-15 minutes is a waste of time. Better to agitate and replace the fluid as needed. Shimano are good stock bearings but you can get just as good for half the price elsewhere. No need to fast spin a dry bearing. A good clean bearing will spin quietly and come to rest smoothly, not a sudden stop.

This list sounds like Borat talking but you get the idea. lol

Shimano use some of the best stock bearings. Flush them and keep them lightly oiled and they’ll make perform as well as anything and last as well.

The reel seat on the mojo won’t match up to a thicker grip. You could slice up an Eva grip to try and re-engineer the seat/grip interface. Or better yet lay up layers of Winn grip tape then wrap over the whole thing.

It’s an interstate marine cranking battery 24m—rd. I usually charge both batteries between uses but I might have missed one. This made me curious to post the question. I charge each separately no onboard charger.

I have two Lowrance hook units wired to the ignition battery. How long should they be able to run before the motor (40 hp 4 stroke) won’t turn over? I fish lots of small lakes and don’t run the big motor a lot

Carbontex drags are not harder than brass or aluminum alloys. They are more durable, as smooth or smoother than felt and don not swell and bind should they get wet. Replacing felt with carbon makes more sense than swapping out casting reel drags just to lock them down (I don’t recommend that either)

Even if reattached it will look like hell and not feel great. I’d put the broken piece in a rubber chair leg cap then slip the cap on the end and glue it all up.

No problem. Everyone gets these growing pains. Kudos for having the initiative to tackle a problem.

Don’t buy the marketing re “proprietary” materials. There’s no production rid that can not be matched or surpassed performance and quality wise. I used to use a blank labeled as mag med lite. It’s not made anymore but they have one similar that might fit the bill. If you’d like a quote email me.

The metal drag washer is upside down. Install it with the “bump” facing up. The next washer goes on last just before the star. Try that and see what happens

There’s no magic or secret grease or oil. Main thing is to keep things clean and lubricated with something appropriate.

You’ve got options. 1. cut off behind the grip and replace the whole butt section. 2. cut the butt off and insert a support 3. thread wrap and epoxy the split area 1&2 require a sacrificial piece of an old blank For a down and dirty DIY you could try tightly wrapping the area with electrical tape in place of attempting a thread wrap. You can always have a professional repair done down the road.

A set of Bocas is only $29.95 for those reels. Your best bet is to flush and properly oil what you have. I’ll walk you through it if you want to email me.

Go back through the drag stack from ratchet gear on up. Something is missing or mis-assembled. Post pics if you can maybe we can spot something.

Make sure the AR clutch is seated so that the sleeve protrudes enough for the drag to apply pressure.

The brake shoes can get gummed up over time, but simple green and a rinse with hot water is all it takes. I lock the tabs down so not to lose any. Again, swab pins, shoes and drum with alcohol followed by a very thin film of light oil on the drum during regular maintenance will prevent any problems.