Delaware Valley Tackle

A leader wouldn’t stretch enough to make any difference in that regard. Only reason I could see for a leader would be a little stiffness to avoid fouling.

I never pay retail and usually at least a model behind current. It boils down to your personal priorities and budget. The new model has some features as described but the k is no slouch.

They’re a crisp, fast rod. The MHx mb blanks are nice and more affordable for a first stab at things. I never put a foregrip on a bass rod but that’s your call. Check a rod you like the grip length of by measuring from butt to middle of seat and tell mud hole to size the seat to fit the same spot.

A well tied Albright joining 50# PP and 15# mono will pass a 4.5 Fuji Alconite. What most consider a “micro” guide.

The frame shape looks like it may be a Daiwa platform. Browse through their reels and look for one with similar features. If you want to do a deep dive compare schematics.

Yup. Lol

Neither the AR or pinion support bearing have any affect on casting. Casting noise should be limited to brakes, bearings, spool rim or spool shaft. Eliminate one at a time until you find the culprit.

The drag is loosened to the point that it’s slipping as intended. As long as the reel operates correctly with drag set for fishing I wouldn’t worry about it.

The fix for that is to replace the guide. Little chance any attempt to reattach the ring will last at all.

This is funny as I had this conversation with someone just an hour before I saw the post. He talked me into trying Assassin 15# for a mix of handling, feel and abrasion resistance.

If you’re a typical casual user that buys a reel and uses it with little or no care until it stops working things like Shimano’s core protect or Daiwa mag seal might have significant value. Outside of that it’s more like, “nice, so what else ya got?”

Just because fluoro will sink on its own doesn’t mean it will drag down large moving bait. It might affect the attitude of a stationary jerkbait but that’s about it. Conversely, something slightly more than neutral buoyancy like braid isn’t going to lift a bait.

There are whole websites and forums dedicated to Ambassadeur reels, I’d check some of them. I’ve seen these pictured but never in person.

If an even number of brakes works for you, no reason not to put them opposite each other. But I see no reason to not use Just one or 3 of 4 or 5 of 6 if it provides the control you want.

I like the old six pin centrifugal brakes. Set it and forget it.

If I use an octopus or circle hook with an offset tie I’ll snell it sometimes.

If you’re working a jerk bait or other technique that throws slack into the line maybe reel faster to keep the loops to a minimum.

I don’t think it matters whether it’s delivered to the store or home. Rarely does damage to packages occur once they’re “ out for delivery”. It’s the conveyors in the processing plants that are really rough on stuff at times.

Not required but I don’t see a problem with it. I don’t buy the theory of stretchy line keeps you from pull the bait away. The hard part of any top water fishing is waiting to feel the bite after seeing the blowup.

Tackle is tools, each with an appropriate application. Baitcaster being better than spinning is like hammer is better than screwdriver.

If raw casting distance for light baits is the priority stick with spinning tackle. Casting tackle rookies and distance casting is a recipe for frustration.

Why do you expect the spool to stop automatically when the lure lands? Every baitcaster requires thumb control.

Unless they’ve corroded from neglect I’ve never seen a worm bearing fail. I couldn’t agree more with your premise regarding bushings. The Core is my all time favorite reel with minimal bearing count. Super smooth , light and great casting.

Water will get into a reel at nearly every use. It’s expected and why they have drain holes. The grease will repel water and if it did get dunked or wet enough to emulsify the grease it would become less slippery not more.

They often count the AR bearing which is technically a clutch but still supports the main shaft while cranking. Obviously two good bearings to support the spool and allows smooth casting and retrieve. A support bearing at the base of the pinion is next import and better yet a second at the top. A bearing at the base of the main shaft is preferable over a bushing and again, a second at the top is a good feature. Next would be bearings at one or each end of the level wind worm gear. Some folks consider this a must have but in my mind is not a deal breaker. Lastly two or four bearings in the handle are total preference.