S Hovanec

I glue my arbors in the seat. Once cured, I chuck the seat in my lathe and bore to the required diameter. Very little reaming required.

I've used it on 3 bass trips and 2 walleye trips so far. On my dropshot rods, 20# TufLine to 6# Tatsu, I have not broke off at the leader knot yet. On the walleye rods, 40# Powerpro to 12# Sniper, same results. I'm sold on it.

I did a LE last year like that. They used a piece of blank as the seat insert. No arbor on it though, just epoxy.

^ what he said. Tape, when done right, will work fine. But, why risk it when a poly arbor is $1.00. I'm just finishing up the box of 100 I bought a few years ago

the guys in the white van?

Dowel wrapped with sandpaper.

They feel like a quality piece. I've only used the one for about 15 minutes on the jerkbait rod before realizing they weren't biting those that day! Haven't felt how it is when wet yet. I don't like fishin' in the rain anyway?

Custom 5S610MLXF extended to 7' Shimano TwinPower 2500HGS TufLine XP 20# 6# Tatsu leader Owner Mosquito size 6 Hand poured worm my buddy makes

SCV is my go-to.

Model M

I just wish they would sell the blanks. I'd love to build one to see what the hype is all about.

All 3 of my CI4s felt geary. Don't have that feeling in the metal Stradics.

Don't have a cutoff for rods. I build whatever I want. Reels? right now my line in the sand is Vanquish for spinning and Aldebaran MGL for casting. I will have a Stella or 2 at some point.

Given the choice between a CI4 or a Stradic FK or FL, I'd take the FK/FL all day. Wasn't impressed with the 3 CI4s I've had. Still holding on to one of them just because I built the rod specifically for that reel.

It's on my tube rod, jerkbait rod and all 6 dropshot rods. I plan to have the Erie smallies test it out on my vacation in about a week.

My LTB 70MHF was like that too. Croix powers seem to run a little higher than other manufacturers. There's some big gaps in their powers, but that's a discussion for another time

I've been happy with it. Used to tie the uni-uni. Since switching, I haven't had a single leader break at the knot.

I've switched to this knot.

I never saved any money, but I did acquire a bunch of cool tools and developed an unhealthy obsession. I don't even care what parts cost for my personal rods anymore. I just build a couple for other people, do a few repairs and order whatever I want! Lol.

I can't bring myself to use cheap components. Why put forth the effort to build a rod using cheap stuff. By cheap, I'm not talking about discounted discontinued top quality stuff. I'm talking about no-name, unknown origin junk

I just spooled my new Aldebaran MGL with 20# TufLine XP. It is on my newly completed SCV inshore 7' MLF. It's intended purpose is weightless plastics, SR5s/SR7s and Slender Pointers.

My first boat was a late 70s 14' StarCraft with a 9.9 Johnson. I completely stripped the boat and rebuilt the decks. It was HEAVY, but it got me on the water.

Thank you.

They're all spoken for.

I have been working in the rod shop. 8'3" PacBay Arctos Musky extended to 9'. Rodgeeks Star Wars theme. SCV with AmTak CF grip. ScIV and SCV 7' ML Inshores extended to 7'2" 7' and 7'10" Rainshadow Judge Crankbait rods 7' SCV ML Inshore with AmTak CF grip