smbrule

I've had/have both the Curado 200e and the 50e. The 50e is significantly better in casting light jigs. My current stable of reels include the Citica 200e, Chronarch 50mg and Curado 50e. All other things being equal the ability to cast/pitch light lures is largely dependent on how fast the spool starts and that is determined by the weight of spool filled with line. Here are some spool weights in grams with and without Stren Original mono in 14# test. The 50e spool empty weighs 11.4 grams; filled line it weighs 17.9 g. The 200e spool empty weighs 13.8 grams; filed with same line weighs 24.2 g. The Citica 200e spool empty weighs 14.8 grams; filed with line it weighs 25.2 g. For comparison the "famed" Chronarch 50mg's spool weighs empty 12.2 g. and with same line 17.7 g. (Less line capacity than 50e so slightly lighter.) It is evident that mono has a major effect on total spool weight.

Eighty eight posts here: http://www.tackletour.net/TTForums/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=32351

Been using Original Stren ever since it hit the market many decades ago. It has a nice combination of abrasion resistance, flexibility, shock strength and stretch. It is my primary mono type line. It is a line that is on most of my baitcasting reels in 14 pound test and above. I also use XL in 10 # test when I want a flexible line--for example when I use a 4" soft stick bait as less flexible lines coil too much as the bait sinks. Also use Berkley Big Game in 10 and 12# test for cranks.

I've a 16' Crestliner V bottom boat and have been running a cranking battery and two trolling batteries in it for 17 years. One cranking battery and a deep cycle battery in the transom area and one deep cycle in the front bow storage area to give me 24 volts. I do run high capacity 24 series batteries.

I peg using bobber stops when fishing in wood. Less hang-ups and if hung up easier to "twang" it off. Often will place a bobber stop above and below the sinker thereby enabling to do a quick carolina rig.

Thumbs up for Cadman. Have purchased many jigs from him over the years. Has an extensive catalog that he can provide. His e-mail is chodor@sbcglobal.net

I've used both reels (rightys) extensively. Like them both. The Citica 200 for line capacity and the 50e for its' ability to cast/pitch lighter lures better. The 50e is also a little lighter. All other things being equal the ability to cast/pitch light lures is largely dependent on how fast the spool starts and that is determined by the weight of spool filled with line. Here are some spool weights in grams with and without Stren Original mono in 14# test. The 50e spool empty weighs 11.4 grams; filled line it weighs 17.9 g. The Citica 200e spool empty weighs 14.8 grams; filed with line it weighs 25.2 g. It is evident that mono has a major effect on total spool weight. Note: The Curado 200e spool weighs one gram lighter. I can't detect any differences in casting ability between the Citica and Curado.

I fished the Detroit lakes area in the past. Spent a week in that area on consecutive years fishing for bass. Like most MN lakes in that region and to the east most lakes hold bass. Even the primary walleye lakes can be good for bass. The Minnesota Lake Finder offers lake information and a map. Although it has to be taken with a grain of salt the lake information along with the map is very useful. Link is: http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/lakefind/index.html

I own a couple of 50MG's and love them. I am curious as to what you like more about the 50E's. Can you be specific. I may just have to give one a whirl if you recommend them that highly. Thanks!

I've two 50E's and four 50 MG's, also the Citica 200E and Curado 200E7. For casting light lures I can't tell any difference between the 50 MG and 50 E. If new 50 MGs were available at the same price of the 50e's I would still buy the 50'e although they weight an ounce more. The disadvantage of the 50's is lack of line capacity especially when using 14-17# test mono. That is why I have the 200's. On a long cast with traps, buzz baits too easy to clean the spool and retrieve rate really suffers.

I've extended a number or rod handles. If the inside diameter of the rod at the butt end is large enough to take a decent size piece of old rod that provides the extension with the least amount of added weight. You will have to add a little bit of masking tape around the junction area to provide an even taper. Usually I will use a light wall brass wall tube available at hobby stores that handle model airplane kits. Once I get the butt cap off and cut off the cork underneath it I take the brass tube and cut notches in it. Then by constantly turning the tube under the cork at the butt you can get the tube inserted three or so inches over the rod end. It does take some effort to do it. Then I epoxy the tube to the rod. After epoxy has cured cut off the tube to the length of the handle need.

I'm an avid tube fisherman. Fish them for both LMB and SMB (on rocky Lake of the Woods) When I want to avoid snags I use an EWG hook with an inside tube weight texposed. I prefer Yamamoto Tube weights as they are inexpensive (see Tackle Warehouse). I usually use a 4 inch tube. Compared to smaller tubes a 4" tube is fatter at the head an less likely to snag in rocks. The inside tube weight also cuts down on snags. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-SPECIALWTS.html?from=basres

My primary baitcasters are Chronarch 50 MG and Curado 50 E's. Anything lure less than 1/4 oz is difficult to cast with accuracy. It is the total weight of the lure that counts. For example I use sweet beavers with a 1/16 oz weight as a surface lure casting into pads. However, the beaver alone weighs 0.37 oz. Even a Baby Paca Craw weighs 0.28 oz.

Surcharges for some postal zones can increase rod shipment costs by~50%. From Iowa I shipped two rods via the USPS on the same day. One to CA and one to MI. Costs was ten dollars more to ship to MI. Go figure?? Both went to a residential address.

(quote "Im thinking that a hand tied wire leader like those that fly anglers use for pike and muskie flies wouldn't be so bad. They're a lot more limp and less visible than any of the commercially made ones since they're not plastic coated, they use thinner gauge wire, and don't have the crimps, swivel, and snap. I might have to try because I really like using smaller hard swimbaits like the Sebile, but I lose too many." I usually bass fish Minnesota lakes three weeks out of the year and also a week on Lake of the Woods for smallies. Have used wire leaders for a number of years and also flexible hand tied ones in the past several years. On LOW I'm throwing a lot of cranks for smallies. The advantage of the flexible wire leaders over the triaditional wire leaders is that they don't kink nearly as much. The disadvantage, besides cost is that you must make sure your knot is well tied. I use 10 and 13 pound test flexibile wire and prefer the 13 # test. The directions on one of the wire packages recommend a "clinch" knot but do not show the tag end of the line coming back thru the loop you've created. Not coming back thru the loop has caused knot failures on 10# test wire. By the way, I was concerned about the 10# test so tied several leaders to 17 # test mono and the wire to a hook with a clinch knot--snagged the hook to a tree and backed off 20 feet and with a medium heavy Loomis 783 set the hook as hard as possible multiple times and could not get the leader/line to break.

Got a free spool of this line--10# test. I'm not a big fan of fluorocarbon. Tried Seguar Carbon Pro and saw little advantage for my usual type of fishing which is heavy cover and higher pound test mono. Thinking about spooling the Stren on my baitcasting reels for suspending jerk baits in clear water with minimal cover and for a drop shot rig. Any one have experience with Stren Fluro in the lighter pound tests? Thanks

For worms and stick baits I use a straight shanked hook as I'm convinced I get a higher hooking percentage and less snags as I texas rig the bait whereas when using an EWG hook I texpose the hook. Convinced that a straight shank hook with the angle of the point to the eye is the reason for better hookup-especially in the top of the mouth. Slide an EWG hook across you finger and it wont dig in while a straight shanked hook will.

Thanks for the info. I was hoping that the 7" would also be slim. Any other soft stickbaits out there in the 7" range that are similar in diameter to a 5" Senko? If not, will buy some 5 or 6" Sticko O's and cut and weld. If I do that will most likely make a 8-10" stick bait.

I've fished the Stick-O in the 5 3/8" size. Are the Stick-O's in the 6" and 7 1/8 inch sizes the same diameter as the 5 3/8" size? Also, does anyone have the weights of the three above Stick-O's? Thanks!

Yes, go with the automatic inflation vest. And, one with hydrostatic inflation. Mine is a Mustang. I wear it on the casting deck when fishing alone. When running I wear a standard type life vest

I'm stuck in the dark ages. Best all around line--Original Stren

Riveted or welded. I believe it depends most on the manufacture. Lund and Crestliner are certainly well regarded boats. I have welded V bottom boat. A 1993 Crestliner which is a welded boat. I've run this boat on Lake of the Woods for a total of around 3000 miles. More often in rough water than not. So far no leaks.

I did line tests several years ago. Did three break samples using a Berkley digital scale. Took average and rounded up or down. Breakage tests were done knotless. Line diameter was miked, not from manufactures label. I had a lot of problems with the older Sensation. Sensation purchased in the past five years have had no problems with breakage. Agree, it is not very abrasion resistant. And with its' smaller diameter per pound test abrasion may cause more weakening. However, Sensation is a strong line per diameter. I do use Sensation only in open water. In wood or rocks I use Original Stren. It has an excellent combination of abrasion resistance, strength per diameter, stretch and flexibility. # Line Diameter Break at # 17 Excel (Bass Pro) 17 19 17 Stren (original) 17 21 17 Sensation 15.5 22 15 Big Game 16 20 14 Stren (original) 16 18 14 Sensation 14.5 18 12 Big Game 14 17 12 Sensation 12.3 15 10 Sensation 10.5 12.5

Yea, I'm definitely older. Have been bass fishing for 60 years. About five years ago begin selling off my 7 foot rods and now fish with 6' to 6'6" rods. Longer rods magnify the strain on my wrist, forearm and shoulder. Also I try to avoid roll casting which causes much of my problem. For the most part now I'm reasonably pain free even though I fish seventy or so days of the year. Note: Typically a 6' rod is about 3-4 inches shorter from the reel seat to the tip compared to a 6'6" rod as the handle is shorter. I extend the handles on my 6' rods as I prefer to two hand cast when possible to avoid aggravating pain. So, the majority o my rods are 6'3" in length. Problem is that there are not a lot of 6' rods available.

As soon as bass fishing really slows down I turn to crappie fishing until the water becomes hard. The tick of the line and a 12 to 14" crappie lightens the mood and provides good fishing for another month. When I was younger I used to fish for bass until freeze up, but no more. In Iowa I've caught bass in soft water every month of the year but January.