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Chris W.

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Everything posted by Chris W.

  1. No problem :-). If you didn't reassemble the drag correctly, it would just spin and wouldn't adjust. You could probably bottom out the drag, or just the opposite. Glad you did it right! look at getting a schematics for that reel, they help lol.
  2. Drag parts are meant to smush. So, most drag pieces look like this ( ) so they spring together. They should never look like this (( or this )). When you tighten your drag they compress together, forming resistance. Is this what you're talking about?
  3. Mikes reel repair didn't have one either. Call Okuma and ask them if they can email you a .pdf of the CY-200 reel schematics.
  4. Same here. I didn't know if it was my browser or not. I have one more source i can pull. I'll get back to ya :-)
  5. Did you try looking for schematics here? http://schematics.okumafishing.com/
  6. You want your lure to smoothly come down, hit the ground and not pay anymore line out. That will kill backlashes a tiny bit. Adjust your brakes to somewhere in the middle. If you put all brakes on, you won't really be learning. You then press the spool release button, putting your thumb on the spool. Cast out with the reel facing the sky, then as you bring the rod forward before you're about to release the spool, turn the reel to the left side if you're right handed, this will help you in aiming, and will backlash less (i don't know how, but it does!). Point the rod where you want your lure to go and thumb the spool (not too much pressure, but the spool is in freespin, so if it hits the ground, the spool still spins creating a backlash because the lines coming off the spool, but going nowhere). then when it is about to hit the water/ground, apply your thumb to the spool more to stop it.
  7. the plastic ones on my buddies rod he let me use because he wanted to go fishing and I didn't have my tackle. The line cut a channel and kept stopping and making the tip jump. I had to fish with it kind of sideways.
  8. I keep you guys on your toes. The more I learn the more I can help future posters. 8-)
  9. So, I have a quick question. Just spooled my baitcaster up with #20 Berkley Fireline Fused Original. I have a quantum accurist PT (2001/2002 model). Will this braid end up digging itself into the reel's line guide? Also, i have a 1 piece 6'6" shakespeare ugly stik medium action casting rod. Will it end up eating up the rod tip? I believe both the reel and rod have aluminum oxide inserts.
  10. I put it on and love it. Time to teach! I can cast just as far as my spinning reel with that stuff. It's great.
  11. .RM. that's exactly what it was. I took it off after you emailed me and took a look, and realized it just wasn't ground all the way down on both sides.
  12. If they recommend 12lb, is it all right to go down to "8" lb? It just lists 12lb in the guide they put with the reel.
  13. This is what it looks like. The tab isn't as pronounced as the picture, but you get the idea.
  14. Yeah, i installed the spring washers like that, but Both of them aren't round on both ends. One end is round, the other has a little tab at the top of it. I didn't know if both tabs went together, or if it went tab to rounded end.
  15. More specifically, they're called Spring "D" Washers. They're part #66 on the schematics.
  16. so my drag kept paying out line and wasn't very strong. Took a look and I don't know if I did good or bad. I degreased the huge brass gear where the cloth washer sits, wiped the washer off of the grease that got on and degreased the other 3 steel parts of the drag (all inside the reel). These parts don't need grease, right; because it's a dry srag system? also, the stack of washers on the outside of the frame that go under the drag star they have a round end and a squareish tab on the other. Do both tabs go together or is it round to tab?
  17. so is that a go or no go? Like I said I'd love to use it but if it's not kosher I won't. I don't want to waste it, but have no money to buy more.
  18. that is fireline original, it has a bigger line diameter than regualr braid i think 20lbs test is like 10lbs test diameter It says 8 on the box.
  19. The new quantum smoke has both right? Does that really dumb down your casting abilities as far as distance?
  20. Maybe i am. I just didn't know if it would lock down the spool or still peel out line. I didnt even really think about the line size. I can't snap 12lb by hand lol but i can with 8.
  21. Thanks guys, i think i'm going to go with the braid. Started another thread specifically for the line size. We'll see where that goes. This forum's awesome and patient :-)
  22. Haha i could do that, but it would be a waste of both braid and money. And i dont have more money to spend :-) as it is the braid was a gift. So if it wont work on my BC i'll put it on my spinning gear.
  23. So, I should be safe to use the braid? My issue is, i don't want to spool it onto my baitcaster, then have issues with it on the water and have it ruin my day, then have to unspool it and possibly make a mess so i can't use it on another reel and have to throw it. Know what im sayin?
  24. Is a blood knot also called a uni to uni? I looked at it and it looks similar. I usually tie an albright, is it smaller than a well tied albright? Also, i was told on here to stick with the 12lb mono because the braid would lie into itself, i'm not disagreeing with you, because an agreement would be good lol, just reiterating what others have said.
  25. What about the line size difference? The size difference in inches is 0.0024 or 0.06mm. Is that a big enough difference to cause issues? The mono works well, but i want to switch over to braid and was told its easier for beginners, of which i'm trying to teach. Here's my two, first is my mono, second is the line i just got. I have 1175 yds of clear mono, and 125 yds of smoke braid.

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