Mike L

I just love that thing. At least half of the fish I caught at the roadtrip came on the bug in the Bama color, pitching it around all the lay downs we were in. Mike

Braid...Power Pro Floro....Invizx Poly...Yo Zuri Mono...Don't use it anymore Mike

Totally agree...I have an older one also. Mike

12# Yo Zuri Hybrid, or 15# Invisex depending on depth Mike

Value?? Find a Curado E 7, You can thank me later. Mike

I use a Phenix X11 composite rod, with JM Sig 6.4 ratio reel. It's rated as a deep diver (3 oz ) but I use it with small sq bills also and it works great. Mike

Phenix X11 composite. Its rated as a deep diver rod but I use it for all cranking, including small Sq Bills. Love that thing. Mike

I've always used the spot remover until I was given the Mega Stike. I realy like the the way the head is shaped. Seems like they tend to stand a lot easier. Gonna try Mike's (Sieberts Outdoors) also. Mike

I always use a nail weight with a Fluke. Changing where I put it depending on what kind of fall I want. Nose hooking can really make them crazy too. Mike

Same... Mike

As we pull up to an area really stealthly like, my boater says to me..."Ok, Ive been saving this place all day, for 2 days in practice I just killed them in here" I say, "Yeah, I can see why, If I was a bass I'd live here!! We stay there for 2 hrs because he "killed" them for 2 days, barely making it back in time for weigh in. He gets 2 dinks, I get 1 and he both finish out if the money. Mike

You guys are something else...The level of knowledge of all things fish on this board, just blows me away. I love these discussions because I learn about things I never even knew I should consider! Honestly, I have never decided to buy, or not to buy a reel because of what the frame is made of. Rods?.. yes, Reels..no. Maybe I should, I don't know. Would it make me a better angler using an aluminum reel over a composite? Or composite over magnesium? If that was the only consideration I would use to make a choice I would say sure, but it never has been. I own a Curago E, G and I, JM Sig, PQ, bps Extreme and a 1st gen Revo S.. I match em up based on comfort, balance, brake system, drag power, casting distance etc. for the technique I'm useing it for. I've never even thought about the materials used to make the frame. I will now! Makes sense...I just didn't know what I didn't know God I love this place! Mike

Any weight that is pegged to the hook so it doesn't move freely on the line like a TX rig, is a Florida rig. A bobber stop is ideal as you can adjust it up and down the line if you like. The screw in weights are also available if you'd rather go that route, just rig the plastic a little higher above the hook eye. I agree, no need to glue plastic to a weight. Mike

Fenwick MH/F casting rod Mike

OP The list that Ice listed for you pretty much covers the whole spectrum of choices available with a few exceptions listed. I'm sure there's more... The only brands I have used are the Bombers, KVD Sq Bill's and Rapala's, and have confidence in them built up over the years. The others are equally good and of good quality I'm sure..Just don't have any expierence with them. Not knowing what depth, bottom cover, predominate bait etc. that's in the lakes you frequent... I'd start out by following the adage of "match the hatch" which essentially means throw the color and size of lure which most closely matches the bait fish in the waters you fish. Water clarity is also a consideration in what color to chose as others above has said. Even tho a crankbait can be effective in a straight cast and retrieve method, don't lock yourself into that. You can have great success also by varying your retrieve with short jerk's, a quick few turns of the reel periodically, or even a stop and go every once in while can entice a strike.. I'm sure you know you don't need a $400.00 - $500.00 arsenal of crankbaits to be successfull.. Just try to "Match the Hatch" and water color/clarity to your inventory and I'm sure you'll be pleased. OK? Good Luck Mike

Any weight that is pegged to the hook and not free to move on the line is a Florida rig. I use a bobber stop which allows you to have both options. Its called that because of the mostly grassy, weedy lakes that Florida has.. Mike

This pretty much covers it Mike

Florida rig Texas rig Shaky head Mike

Just tried to be helpfull.. Mike

Sweet Beaver (soon to be the bug) in heavy veg. Brush Hog in more open areas. Mike

Tie direct to everything but to cranks/jerks. Then I use a speed clip. Never use a swivel unless I'm throwing a spoon, fluke etc....Anything that has a tendency to spin. Mike

This... I use 60# Kansen braid for plastics in heavy cover. 20# Invisex floro for jigs only. 15# Invisex in scattered vegetation Mike Mike

Down here for me I like Clear water...A watermelon whatever Stained...I start with a Okeechobee magic combo, then switch to a pumpkin. Mike

Absolutely. Lou and Smalljaw have it right..You can change it up and combine what each do on the same cast or subsequent cast's. Rarely do I just reel across a pad or grass field for that matter. Since you're having success doing it that way now, certainly don't stop, but try what they said also. Mike

Agree... Approach the school very stealthy and throw a top water past the busting school and work it through them. If the school itself moves across the water, then throw in front and let them come to you. Now, just because they're busting the surface doesn't necessarily mean you'll get bit, so what I do is work a walking bait hard, or if a poping bait use one that displaces a lot of water. You want them to zero in on yours, not the dozens of choices they have. Mike