baluga

Good one! Ow crap.. i replied to my own post

3 arm rig, I'm in!

A group of the BASS Resource family and friends, all in their 40s, discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at the Ocean View restaurant because the waitresses there were gorgeous, with tight skirts, perky breasts and nice bums. Ten years later, at age 50s, the friends once again discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at the Ocean View restaurant because the food and service was good and the wine selection was excellent. Ten years later, at age 60s, the friends again discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at the Ocean View restaurant because they could dine in peace and quiet and the restaurant had a beautiful view of the ocean. ... Ten years later, at age 70s, the friends discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at the Ocean View restaurant because the restaurant was wheelchair accessible and had an elevator. Ten years later, at age 80s, the friends discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at the Ocean View restaurant because they had never been there before.

IMHO, I think JDM is more concern of the total weight of the reel than adding a fail safe parts. One less part can help them get close to their target. A good example is the Calcutta, a USDM 100 GTE weights 9.5 Oz while its JDM counter part Conquest 100 weights 8.0 Oz. By drilling holes and removing the redundant AR part they were able to to cut down on the weight. But who knows, we can only speculate what's their real objective when they left out the AR pawl . Although you can always add one.

The calcutta's also have the AR pawl, although the conquest doesn't, i wish they have. I like the AR pawl on my reels specially when I use it for saltwater. I tend to put more oil on the the anti-reverse bearings than I should to protect it from saltwater corrosion. Having more oil it will have it more prone to slipping. The AR pawl will keep it from totally sliding and protect it from messing up the sleeve and the AR bearing at the minimum. Another advantage is when using today's super line/braid where you can put in 50#s on braid on a small reel which is beyond the max of its strength. The only advantage I see in removing the AR pawl is less weight on the reel, although the AR pawl is only a few grams savings.

Good one J!

True that!

What R.M. said.

Here' what I've been using lately. You can get it from those kitchen stores.

Try using TSi301 oil and you'll be amazed how the free spool duration would stay even after using the reel for more than six months. It would spin like you just had it flushed/cleaned and oiled the spool bearings.

True dat! This thread is even older than my membership in this forum. Well done!

with these tools: and CRC brake cleaner or Carbutator cleaner w/ bearing blaster to blast out those gunk.

my idol..haha

1. Sammy 100 2. Lucky Craft FM 110 SP 3. 3" Big Hammer swimbait

is it still alive ??? It's more than 2 years now. I hope you are already expert in killing it.!

Spool it just before where the spool edge is beveled.

The chair rubber cap would work but it makes the butt end hard on the palm when casting with both hands. Now imagine that putting it in your cumara rod. It is going to look like umm.. Like this:

Adding gold and silver accent to both without cost. items swapped: 1. Drag Star 2. Cast control Cap 3. Nut lock plate. from this to this.. from this: to this..

The coins are also glued together to hold it together. No issue rubbing off the shoe goo when it's dried. It does not leave any residue or discoloration since it's a clear rubber glue

matter of preference.. birds nest on mono/fc gets deep compared to braid, it stops right away so birds nest is in the top portion of the spool. easier to pick. but if you already bought the line might as well use it. Most newby on baitcaster usually mess up their line in a couple of months and needs to be re-spooled. Need re-spooling since you cut so much line that it's already halfway the spool. enjoy!

Here’s a cheap and easy way to balance without damaging or drilling holes in the butt end of the rod. Materials: Shoe Goo A dime (to fill butt ends with cavity like Cumara) Quarters as counterweight. Felt tip/pads ( the one that you use for the chairs ) size of a quarter. Here’s some pix. You can always removed the weights by making a loop with a braid line on the dried glue between the butt end and the quarter and pull the braid slowly until it cuts off the glue.

Go for braid.. a 20# 832 would give you plenty of line. Use 6' of 12# FC or Mono leader for topwater. The rest of the approach you can do with or without leader depending on what you prefer.

To remove the pin, just use a point of a hook to pry/remove the c clip in the bearing. If the shield is permanent then you have to use an awl or sharp pointed sturdy pin to puncture and pry out to shields. For the spool pin, here's the link for the tool to remove the pin. http://www.bassresou...__1#entry981726

Been using TSi 301 for quite sometime now and very much impressed how it maintains the free spool on my baitcasters even heavy saltwater use. I've used it on CTE 100 GT, Conquest 100 and Curados they would be casting long without re-oiling or cleaning the spool bearings for 5 months and longer. It has held up on saltwater pretty well not like the Xtreme Reel oil which I needed to re-apply every after 3 sessions in saltwater.