philsoreel

Made a line diameter change and canned the split-ring on my Gunfish...it helped tremendously. I started a thread last summer asking what kind of cadence people where using with walkers. To pause or not to pause , if you will. About 80-85% said they use a stop and go. I remember one saying (may have been you JF) that they would use a non-stop retrieve when the bite was slow to provoke a strike just by annoying them. Not saying one is right or wrong. I try to keep it as erratic as possible.

After all that happened I came on here with a topic title basically the same...I AM A BELIEVER!!!

I was so late getting on the "MegaStrike" bus. Everytime it was mentioned on here everybody was just like, "man it's magic" "I don't go fishing without it" "best stuff on earth" and I was thinking BS!!! The conspiracy theorist in me thought since Bobby is an advertiser on here that people were kissing butt trying to get something free. So, I finally tried it. I went to a brush pile and made three casts into it. No bites. Put MegaStrike on and caught a fish the next cast. Hmmmmm that's interesting. That happened over and over, day after day. So now when someone asks me about MegaStrike I say,"Man it's magic. I don't go fishing without it. It's the best stuff on earth" lol

I like that Snook...outdated PowerPro. That's what I'm going to call it from now on. Alex- I forgot to add that I'll probably go back to all Outdated PowerPro when my 832 wears out...it's gonna be awhile though I bought two spools.

Ok, first off the reason for a fluoro leader is a highly debatable subject. Some use it for a less visible presentation and some use it for better abrasion resistance in rocks and such. Some use it for both. That includes me. Another reason is getting hung up, the leader will break off where you don't lose so much line. I don't use braid on spinnerbaits, cranks, topwaters pretty much anything with trebles or drop-shot and some finesse techniques. I've tried every reputable brand braid out there. These are just my thoughts... PowerPro is bombproof but makes some noise going through the guides. It's a very good line. Sufix 832 has performed very well for me, similar to PowerPro but is alot less noisy...still not perfect. Daiwa Samurai is the cream of the crop when noise and smoothness are concerned. It's like silk but in my opinion it's not as strong or abrasion resistant as PP or Sufix. Still very strong line though. I think it's rated breaking strength is accurate but PP and Sufix 832 by far surpass their breaking strengths. PP's strength to diameter ratio is insanely high. Like I said before, it's bombproof. I'm still using both PP and Sufix 832 and like both alot. Hope this helps.

Not saying those places mentioned earlier will but I just had a Cumara OTC warrantied. The retailer even told me to take a dremel and saw it in half to save on shipping. No problem at all and he sold me another for about $45 cheaper than BPS prices. Couldn't turn that down.

LMAO!!!! man you really hate PowerPro don't you? What did they do to you?

For shakeyhead, would you say the 822 has more hook setting power than the Cumara?

Jig- LOL yes it did. Glad you were inspired...nothing gets my heart pounding like the old blow-up. They destroyed a char. shad Kelly J for me yesterday. Hooligan- That's another issue I've been wondering about. Wood or plastic? LC makes really good stuff but the plastics get hook rash somethin fierce.

Ight, I'll go get some 14# or 15# and remove all **** rings...I mean split rings. Thanks for the tips guys. A whole page of posts and not the first mention of what the topic asked...

I have a 7'2" Cumara Medium Extra fast that I've been using for shakeyhead fishing. It works pretty good for shakeyhead but I want a little more hooksetting power. Since drop-shotting is quickly working it's way into my must have combos I was thinking about using the Cumara for my DS rod and getting a GLoomis SHR821S Mag-Light or SHR822S Mag-Med for shaking. I don't have a local store that carries them, not even BPS, to pick them up and compare them. I would just go with the Mag-Med but sometimes I throw a 1/16th and it's not rated for weight that small. My Cumara is also only rated for 1/8th and it struggles throwing a 1/16th on fluorocarbon.

I would go with the Citica on ebay if I had to stay under $100 but I would spend another $55 and get him a Curado 50E. The Curado 200E can be found for $142 maybe less on ebay but the 50E...I own Core 50's and think the Curado 50E is an awesome reel.

When they say taper, is it referring to the thickness of the blank tapering down from butt to tip and where does the action come into the equation?

Yeah, I've already read that but I guess I don't understand enough about tapers. Does it translate into a stiffer backbone?

Is this a power rating? Like medium, medium heavy, heavy, then magnum??

John- If I tried it more than once a year with the right action rod it would probably help alot. Who knows, it may become a favorite tool. I hated Senkos two months ago until I followed the generous advice of a post RW made back in 08...now I don't go fishing without a Senko rod. I also took some advice from one of our heated arguments and have taken up drop-shotting...another must have in boat. I'm about to buy a drop-shot rod and would really like to hear your input about my choices if you don't mind. Jigfishin10- I started to mention that after each pause and the more the line sunk it got worse. I am using small diameter 10-12# so that's probably it. Thanks

Walking baits, spinning gear, and I are about as compatible as hot lead and water. Can't get the amount of line being retrieved perfected like I can with BC gear for some reason.

I thought that might be the case. Bigger bait requires more energy to walk so a smaller bait would take more of a finesse approach. Maybe I need a little softer rod for the smaller ones.

What sizes are your favorites and why? Which ones walk the easiest? I bought a few Gunfish 95's and they are a pain in the butt to walk. Especially on those super long casts where you can't see or hear it as well. After a pause the 95's are hard to get back going, they try to dive on me.

I have just about given up on that brand.

Yeah, they do have a really good looking okie craw color.

I've always thought that to. I was so excited to try my new Koppers frogs but I knew it would just lead to heartache...which they still have ended up doing. Koppers look great but they are about equal with Spro when it comes to good hook-ups. Hard to beat the ugly, old Scum frawg.

I guess I'll start off with the round ball style weights 1/4oz because walmart has them for two bucks. What size and style hooks should I use for 4 and 6 inch roboworms and other hand poured worms of the same likeness? I have some 1/0 Owner Mosquito hooks, will they work fine? I also have some size 1 Gamakatsu Split-shot/drop-shots. I'm planning on ordering some Gama Octopus hooks but again don't know what size to get. If someone could explain to me how to tie my hook with a palomar and get the hook to be in the right position would help to.

Okay, so since I'm a recent senko convert, due largely in part to a post Road Warrior made a long time ago teaching me the proper way to fish a senko, I've been stocking up on a few different colors and sizes. Going through TW's massive collection of 63 colors I see 9-10-159 Blue Black/Chart. flake and I'm like BLUE BLACK W CHARTRUESE FLAKE!!! YES!!! That sounds like an awesome color. That's my favorite jig color in a soft plastic. Well, I get them here and there is no blue whatsoever. They are just black with chart. flake. Did I get a bag that's off color? I was expecting a blue/black laminate or something. Does anyone know of another senko style bait that's black and blue with chart. flake? Phillip

I really like this knot, the albright special, but the alberto is a lights out connection knot as well. This one is just easier for me to tie and I can get it smaller than an alberto. The finger savers also help like you can't imagine, but they are expensive.