OkobojiEagle

Throw it in the lake... using it frequently will give you ADHD. oe

I don't think I have any oil that old! I normally use Abu Silicote reel oil, Yellow Rocket Fuel or Rem Oil. I normally wouldn't clean or oil an IAR bearing but it may be time for a more thorough cleaning. I'd probably choose the Rocket Fuel for this application. oe

Feather trebles will flair open on a pause more than buck tail. I've tied some trebles with a natural colored feather (white, olive, grey or yellow) over a tuft of bright orange buck tail. Can't say it made a significant difference. oe

Research Berkley Lightning Rod Shock... should be readily available... +/- $50.00 ea... budget for 2 rods. oe

Thanks

(instant anti-reverse bearing) oe

Do you lightly oil or leave dry IAR bearings after cleaning (both spinning and casting)? I've always left them dry. oe

I think you may find 17lb NanoFil a little thick... sure you wouldn't rather have 10lb or 12lb? oe

Spend your dollars on a reliable internet connection as you'll find far more useful information on the web than in any current printed magazine. oe

The thinnest diameter is the least visible... that is one of a braided line's greatest advantages over a monofilament line... thin diameter to strength ratio. oe

Throw it at night in some walleye waters... and bring along a change of under shorts. oe

Adding bearings to both ends of the line guide pawl and a bearing supported replacement to the large plastic gear that is attached to the side plate will provide a HUGE improvement to casting ease and distance in the C series reels. oe

What in the specs of this line indicate it isn't a true braid? oe

It's a bit naive to think that the bass' well being is of most importance to tournament fishing. oe

Alright Rooster... let's see those Sasquatch hands of yours! oe

Use the rod that allows you to feel the jig/bait the easiest. oe

Come Spring I'll follow a very slowly sinking jerk bait under my sonar and see if it stops before the bottom... heck, that's really what I was wanting to know, but there's too much ice on the lake now to push my boat out and check. oe (there seems to be more of us Iowegians on this site than I imagined... maybe it's time we dust off the Minniyota jokes!)

Burn that little tidbit into your brain. I fish the plastic suspending shad raps as a hybred crank/jerk bait. I like to jerk them around rock and then let them settle for a few seconds. They'll settle a little nose down as if feeding. When I've banged the rock a couple of times I lift my rod tip and pull them up a foot or so above the rock and let them sit for a few seconds again. I use the #5, #7 & #9... or maybe they're the #4, #6 & #8... I'm not good with numbers. Around shallower rip rap try the #9 flat rap... a slow rising minnow bait. I add a little weight till it ALMOST suspends. oe

lmoore...

"Tenderize" grub tails... thin curly grub tails with an emery board until they're "wet noodle limp". They waggle easier on light jig heads. oe

LOL... now that all of you brainiacs have burned off your lunch carbohydrates... what I'm interested in knowing is... when I'm fishing a perfectly suspending Pointer 75 at 5' of depth over 30' of water and the sun warms the surface temp 2 degrees allowing that bait to sink... how much deeper will it sink before suspending again? oe (my son-in-law is an ISU grad... but he doesn't drive trains)

Known... as water warms it becomes less dense, causing baits that suspended at the cooler temp to sink at the warmer temp. Also known... water pressure increases with depth. Can it be calculated at what increased depth a bait will suspend as the water density is increased with depth? Another variable...at deeper water depths in lakes, the water temp is most often colder. Can the suspending depth of a bait be reliably calculated based upon the water temp at given depth intervals? oe

We fish too fast already... slow down and enjoy the experience. oe

Him in the front... you in the back... oe

Was the difference in catch about technique or were you fishing his used water? oe