cart7t

Hey Earl, you yankin' our chain? :-/ Unfortunately, he sounds very serious.

Absolutely you can respool off another reel. Here's a tip to get rid of all that kink you're going to end up with. After you've completed the switch, go to a place where you can strip off about 40 - 50 yds or so. Put a loop knot on one end, loop it over a fence post. Start backing up until you've unspooled that 40-50 yds (or as far as you can back up). Now click the handle over, put your thumb on the spool to prevent the drag from releasing and start walking backwards. This stretches the line out. You don't have to go back too far. Presto!! Kinks gone!! I do this on all my mono and flouro rods before I head for the lake.

Ok great! I assume there's a super secret screw i need to loosen somewhere on the reel? lol Correctameundo. Perhaps someone will feel sorry for you and explain where the super secret screw is. It's well hidden and may involve a great deal of investigating to find it. Previous versions of the STX also had the super secret screw but it's use was limited to spool removal in order to untangle the numerous birdnests those older reels often experienced.

new knees.

Given the age of the boat you're looking at replacing your steering cables. Forget about lubing anything and just replace them. The lubricant in side has dried up, it's probable the cables have rusted as well. You don't want to mess around and go cheap on this deal. The last thing you want is to be at speed and have a cable break. Teleflex is the most popular system and most likely in your boat. The number for the cable is printed on the cable itself. You should be able to find that number by searching around under the console and following the cables as they exit the steering helm box.

After watching the video it would seem to be a completely legal deal. I was reading that they were using a pulley system to get themselves into a different body of water but a beaver dam is a temporary obstacle one can encounter on just about any body of water. Seems a river boat with jet drive would've cut that trip down to just a few minutes.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=38801&pdesc=AnchorShade_II&aID=601B3&merchID=4006 Overtons and a couple other places sold an awning that had a single pole in the middle and the corners tied off onto cleats or railings. Not quite high enough to stand up completely underneath but there was still lots of room. Easy to put up, it got you out of the sun but still allowed plenty of air flow underneath. I've seen one in action and it worked really well. That tent looking thing looks like it would get a might toasty inside on a warm summer day. Otherwise another option would be to see if anyone sells a bimini top for a boat as narrow as yours. Again, try Overtons for starters.

Gorilla glue, much like any contact, rubber based cement is applied, allowed to partially dry and then the two surfaces mated together. It's not necessary to clamp anything together. If it's possible to put some heavy weight over the glued area that will work fine.

Using a pulley system to winch your boat into a different body of water? Does this mean I could use externally powered means to transfer my boat from the intended fishing grounds to fishing areas not technically a part of the tournament? Seriously, could these guys have set up a gas powered winching system to make this work? I'd really like to see exactly what they were doing to get to this secret fishing hole. I wonder if the rules will have to be re-written after this one.

I think I said this in the other thread... or maybe I didn't. You'll want to buy at least 20-30 of them.

other animals often act unusually prior to an earthquake, I don't see why fish would be any different though I'm not sure how you'd know.

Which model? While I'm no Musky fishermen, if it's a 5500 series I'd think that's a little on the light side for musky fishing.

Boy, that sure was a weird fishing experience.

3 or 4. 2 of them many, many years ago during the early days of graphite rods. They were often prone to snap on the hooksets. Another one, I don't remember the brand, fishing deep brush with braid. The last, on the RT last year. Though I had partially stepped on the rod earlier in the day. I'm pretty sure I fractured it.

My mom (80 years old) just purchased one of those new fangled clothes dryers 6-7 years ago. It doesn't get used much, she still hangs her clothes up.

At 23 years old you're young enough to relocate and move somewhere other than St Louis. This area has some pretty pathetic bass fishing opportunities as compared to many others cities. Welcome to the forum though.

I always cringe when anyone dumps Heinz or A1 onto a fine steak. I do have an outstanding pot roast recipe that calls for Heinz 57 as one of the main ingredients.

When you say power drive style, what are you referring to? The ones that mount on the outboard itself? I'm referring to the Minn Kota line, the Terrova is one model. Often with auto pilot and gps steering. There is no solid steering cable linked from the foot pedal to the actual TM like in a cable drive trolling motor. Instead, steering is handled within the head unit of the TM itself. They take up less of a footprint on the bow deck itself and like I mentioned, there are a couple different removable mounts available for them that let you take the TM off completely if you wanted to use the boat for pleasure purposes. Many of the Power drive type TM's have a remote control unit that allows you to control the TM from any position in the boat. The foot control is also flat and has a rather long, thin electrical cable that controls the boat. That can also be positioned anywhere in the boat to achieve TM control,.

Obviously, not the preferred sucker you want down there.

That was probably a 783S model. In baitcasting that model was listed as an Extra fast, medium light, not sure on the spinning version. Emphasis on the extra fast though, it was no buggy whip by any means and I use them as jerkbait and topwater rods.

I RARELY ever suggest the power drive style TM's due to their inadequacies when it comes to bass fishing but due to the layout of your boat I'd have to say one of those, with at least 55lb's thrust, though 74 would be better, is the best bet for you. You can get a removable mount for them and they come with remote control. Note: I am in no way suggesting that anyone should purchase any power drive motor. They Sux big time and are a poor alternative to a good TM, a cable drive.

Most guys cut the carpet ever so slightly larger than the surface they're covering and then do the edge trim work with a utility knife, changing blades often. Take your time doing that. You could finish that edge off with some trim like I did. Lowes sells door sealing aluminum trim with a rubber insert. I pealed the rubber sealer out of it and used just the trim. It's already got holes drilled every 18" or so. One other thing doing it your way. With the carpet wrapped around floors or other surfaces that don't move, you stand a very good chance of having moisture trapped in that wrapped carpet which will start the mold and mildew process. Carpet wrapped around compartment lids isn't an issue as you can open those lids and air them out.

Maybe burley or 5BL can weigh in on this lake. Missouri has a pump back lake similar to this one. The bass fishing there has never been very good though redear sunfish seem to thrive given the extreme, consistent water level fluctuations.

Bass sleep once a year, depending on geographical location it happens between January - June. That's when you'll find them on their "beds".

I had it pretty bad for years. I finally took a 6-8 month rest from fishing to help in the heeling (going fishing was merely aggravating it making my day on the water painful anyway.) I haven't had a problem since. I also followed some advice from pro Larry Nixon who also had a serious case of TE. Bassmaster had an article on it along with pictorials on his exercises he did to smooth things out.